I have an 89 cherokee with a D35 non c-clip, with a trakloc lsd in the rear. The jeep has 160k miles on it, I changed the diff fluid in the rear when I first got it as it was NASTY. but can anybody clue me in on how to tell if the LSD has gone bad and needs new clutch plates? and if it needs new clutch plates should I just put in some kind of auto locker for the cost? I don't do anything hard core, since its usually me and my 4 year old son and 2 year old daughter with me. so i'm not too worried about breaking anything, but the added traction would be nice, for a "just in case" scenario.

 

I have LSD in my d44 and I wondered the same thing

 

if your LSD isn't working, it will act like an open diff, meaning you only get power to one wheel.

with LSD, you need to use an additive when you do a fluid change, otherwise you will risk burning out your clutches. so if you didn't use the additive, you likely burnt your clutches.

i would just find another carrier and throw in a locker. but that may require a gear set up cause you are removing the ring gear and using a different carrier.

or you can find a replacement axle from a donor jeep (or maybe upgrade to 8.8 or d44 or the like) and just go from there.

it's a jeep thing, it never stops.

 

The Factory Service Manual has a test for it.

But I can't remember if it was for on the bench with a torque wrench or still in the vehicle.

Page 5 of this link..

http://clubs.hemmings.com/potomacram...iff_5313-3.pdf

 

From the '98 FSM........seems like u could do the test without the special tool (just using the torque wrench on a lug nut) and at least get an idea if the clutch packs r with-in spec.

 

FIFY, and saved it/stole it. Thanks.

 

Thanks for all the help! getting my blown head gasket fixed this week, hope to have my jeep up and running in the next few weeks, and this is on my list. Mostly trying to justify replacing the LSD with a locker of some kind to the wife!

 

Since u say u don't do anything hard core, I'd recommend u test your LSD, replace the clutch packs if it tests out of spec, in other words, keep your LSD. Locking diffs can be quirky and never as invisible as a clutch type LSD on the street and mild off road.

 

Well from the sounds of it, I cannot put a locker into my carrier anyways, so I probably should just have the clutch pack replaced if bad. then when I upgrade my axle then worry about installing a locker. I was spoiled with my patriot that had BLD's that were very effective at power transfer, and so I was able to climb a lot more things than I expected to be able to.

 

We installed a PowerTrax No-Slip auto locker in our XJ 4 years ago......awesome unit, very easy 2 hour install in a open carrier.

 

I suggest finding a 97+ XJ at your favorite JY and grabbing a Chrysler 8.25" axle and the drive shaft as well. You'll be miles ahead and you won't have to worry about grenading that D35.
Don't forget the u-bolt plates and buy a new set of u-bolts too.

 

LSD is illegal anyway

 

Here is a link you may need or find interesting. http://www.angelfire.com/oh5/cpa5oh/cpa5ohtech018.htm
When I had a LSD it was tight enough to make my rear tires skip when going around a corner on dry pavement.

 

This is a good article and a new clutch pack is only around $50 or so. I love my Trac Loc lsd. I will probably just rebuild it when the clutch packs wear out. A lot cheaper to fix than buying and installing a locker.

Not knocking lockers by any means. I would love a selectable in the rear but lack of funds is preventing this.

 

If tires don't skip or the diff doesn't chatter in a tight turn, u shouldn't need a friction modifier additive.

A selectable locker becomes a "spool" when engaged.....a spool is miserable on the street......u gotta have a differential on the street. When a selectable locker is dis-engaged, it's performance is the same as a open diff or one tire fire on pavement. Just say no to one tire fires. LOL