Flybaby75

I have a 1996 cherokee and I would like to have some directions on how do an automatic transmission service on it (change the transmission fluid and filter). Can someone help me out?

Thanks!

EZEARL

Normaly you wouldn't change the mesh screen (not really a filter). On your trans pan is a bolt similar to your oil pan. With the trans fluid not cold but not hot enough to take your skin off remove that bolt and let the fluid drain. After it drains and you put the bolt back in you'll have add 3 to 3 3/4 qts of fluid(Dex/Merc). Then you can drive it. Depending on what your old fluid looks like will depend on how often you do this process. It could be 10mi or 100mi. Do it until the fluid looks like new.

Flybaby75

Thanks! I will start this process ASAP!

djb383

A search will reveal that the pan can be difficult to drop due to the two piece dip stick tube not wanting to separate. Another forum member post how he separated/re-attached the tube......I just took pics of how we did it following his instructions. Small tubing cutter, short piece of rubber fuel line and small hose clamps. Obviously dropping the pan allows for a thorough cleaning of the inside. Cleaning out the fine metal goo/grit, that settles to the bottom of the pan to be held (hopefully) by the magnets, never hurt anything.

It's been 4 1/2 years since we did our pan drop/filter/gasket replacement so I have slept since then but, it seems like the small portion of the filter element, visible thru the hole, was a paper element material, similar to what's in an motor oil filter, and not a screen. I guess it could easily verified by asking the parts store folks if u could look at one.

The way I looked at it, the pan was off so why not take 2-3 more minutes to change the filter.....plus a new pan gasket comes with the filter.

cruiser54

Just drain and refill. Carry on............

md21722

^^ what he said. Just drain and refill. I do it on mine every 15-20,000 on average. The AW4 is one of the most reliable transmissions ever built by man. They frequently last longer than the engine.

Firestorm500

That rubber hose in the above picture is a weak point. It will eventually weep and crack.

When I drain and refill mine just by removing the plug, I am getting about 2.5 qts. going into the pan. I have dropped and filled 4 times now, going to do the 5th time soon.

My fluid looked like motor oil.

CrawdadSlim

Yeah, if you ever have to cut the tubing use compression fittings to couple it together .

HarleyRob

I'm confused...are you saying drain it, fill it, drain it again, fill it again, etc.

or, r you saying drain it, fill it, drive it for a while, drain it, fill it, etc.

cruiser54

This^^.Drive it in between

EZEARL

Fixed my OP.

For example I just drove 100mi this weekend and am going to do a drain and fill this week.

md21722

The reason to drain and refill over short intervals is to clean out dirty fluid. If your fluid comes out nice and clean the first time, its not necessary.

djb383

U make it sound so permanent/inferior......like there's no other rubber hose anywhere underneath the XJ. The short piece of rubber EFI fuel hose, which is pretty stout stuff, is easily replaced at the next pan drop. It's easy to do a quick visual inspection when underneath doing a motor oil/filter change.

EZEARL

Guess it wouldn't hurt to make sure the two metal ends butt together when you put the hose on so there's no chance the dipstick hangs up going in?

PocketsEmpty

IMO, this is the best way to change your tranny fluid...

Supplies Needed:

• 3 gallons of Dex/Merc III
• Some length of 3/8" transmission fluid rated hose
• 3/8" barbed coupler fitting
• Two small hose clamps

1. Cut into the rubber portion of the rubber fluid return line coming off of your radiator. On your '96, this should be the connection on the lower side of the radiator, and the hard line going to the back of the trans.
2. Attach the 3/8" hose barb coupler to the radiator-side fluid line that you just cut, and attach new 3/8" hose to it, clamp it, and lead it into a bucket or empty milk jug.
3. With the trans in Park or Neutral (E-brake!), start the engine and let the trans pump its own fluid out into the bucket.
4. When it starts sputtering, shut the engine off, and refill with most of a gallon of Dex/Merc III.
5. Remove the new hose line and reconnect the transmission line with two clamps using the coupler.
6. Start the engine, shift through all gears, you could even take it for a drive.
7. Disconnect the return line again, and repeat steps 3-5.

I just did this recently on my AW4 and it worked great. My trans is much happier, and I didn't mess with dropping the pan, and I wasn't bothered with changing fluid multiple times every hundred miles or so (or whatever interval is recommended for that method). Fluid remains nice and red and shifts are smoother.

This is also the perfect time to install an external transmission cooler while you're at it. This will be ideal and needed if you plan to do some towing or running big tires & stock gears.