Hood release handle seems stuck (cable not broken)
#1
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
Hood release handle seems stuck (cable not broken)
Tried to open my hood to refill washer fluid.
Cable is not broken.
Just the pull handle doesn't really move.
I pulled harder than I normally do and nothing.
I had someone press up and down on the hood while I pulled. Did not work.
I sprayed lube into the seam of the hood, and thru the grille to what may be the latch.
I looked underneath to see if there was any access to the latch. Did not see anything.
What are my options?
Cable is not broken.
Just the pull handle doesn't really move.
I pulled harder than I normally do and nothing.
I had someone press up and down on the hood while I pulled. Did not work.
I sprayed lube into the seam of the hood, and thru the grille to what may be the latch.
I looked underneath to see if there was any access to the latch. Did not see anything.
What are my options?
#2
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L L6 PowerTech (stock)
The sides of the hood are where the closure is that are released when you pull the opener. You can try lubricating those points of contact t and the actual pull point as well. The latch in the middle is only active once you have gotten past the two on the sides controlled by the lever in the cab.
After I pulled my cover off that corner area mine has always been hard to pull. I have to pull 30 lbs. of force, estimated. It used to be more.
After I pulled my cover off that corner area mine has always been hard to pull. I have to pull 30 lbs. of force, estimated. It used to be more.
#3
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
Not totally following what you're saying.
I don't think the pull handle needs lube.
It slides smoothly for a few mm's until it gets stuck.
I sprayed some lube under the corners of the hood, but that did not help.
Not sure what "corner cover" you're talking about.
I don't think the pull handle needs lube.
It slides smoothly for a few mm's until it gets stuck.
I sprayed some lube under the corners of the hood, but that did not help.
Not sure what "corner cover" you're talking about.
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
I pulled the handle like my life depended on it. Popped it free.
The latch was crusty, so I spray lubed the hell out of it.
Lots of liquid rust colored WD40 came leaking out
Latch is much smoother now, and can pop hood with little force.
If you need force, yank the rods back and forth while spraying WD40 on all 3 hinges.
Makes a huge difference.
I will lube the hinges more often
The latch was crusty, so I spray lubed the hell out of it.
Lots of liquid rust colored WD40 came leaking out
Latch is much smoother now, and can pop hood with little force.
If you need force, yank the rods back and forth while spraying WD40 on all 3 hinges.
Makes a huge difference.
I will lube the hinges more often
#5
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You might want to consider using something that will last a little longer than WD-40. While it worked great to free the latch for you, it does wash off fairly easily (rain) and evaporates fairly quickly. Perhaps lithium grease or Fluid Film would hang around longer.
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L L6 PowerTech (stock)
That was confusing on my part. I pulled the interior plastic panel that keeps the wiring harness out of your feet way once upon a time. Since then the hood latch release has been more difficult.
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
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You know, I think Lithium grease was the cause of my issues.
I lubed with lithium grease in the Fall, and I think it turns white and crusty.
This gummed up my hinges. I will try fluid film instead.
Pretty sure the white stuff is what caused this mess.
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Love that stuff!! Smells like brownies or something, heh!
Its got good staying power. I actually spray it on the bottom of the doors in winter to beat back rust... its basically the same stuff as Krown.
That white lithium spray can get a little sticky, so maybe it didn't help matters. Couple pumps from the grease gun might work too, I know thats lithium too, but doesn't get the same kind of sticky that the white stuff does. Anyway, glad you're fixed up!
Its got good staying power. I actually spray it on the bottom of the doors in winter to beat back rust... its basically the same stuff as Krown.
That white lithium spray can get a little sticky, so maybe it didn't help matters. Couple pumps from the grease gun might work too, I know thats lithium too, but doesn't get the same kind of sticky that the white stuff does. Anyway, glad you're fixed up!
#10
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Love that stuff!! Smells like brownies or something, heh!
Its got good staying power. I actually spray it on the bottom of the doors in winter to beat back rust... its basically the same stuff as Krown.
That white lithium spray can get a little sticky, so maybe it didn't help matters. Couple pumps from the grease gun might work too, I know thats lithium too, but doesn't get the same kind of sticky that the white stuff does. Anyway, glad you're fixed up!
Its got good staying power. I actually spray it on the bottom of the doors in winter to beat back rust... its basically the same stuff as Krown.
That white lithium spray can get a little sticky, so maybe it didn't help matters. Couple pumps from the grease gun might work too, I know thats lithium too, but doesn't get the same kind of sticky that the white stuff does. Anyway, glad you're fixed up!
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Ha! I don't get the campground bathroom smell at all.. I think it smells great! And spraying the door bottoms causes it to waft into the cabin every time I get in... better than the 'little tree' scent thingies!
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But what I do year round is keep places Fluid Filmed.
When I did my rear brakes back a few years it took a bit to free up the parking brake adjustment.
Now I soak it down in PB Blaster and to seal it in give it a liberal dose of Fluid Film.
Same for all bushing, susupension parts, etc.