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Home Brew T-case drop!

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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 03:17 PM
  #1  
evmo's Avatar
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From: San Jose, CA
Year: 2000
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Default Home Brew T-case drop!

I lagged on this project for waaaaaay to long.

I looked at buying a standard kit or the rustys crossmember. Then I looked at making one out of metal but just the uncut bar by itself was $15 at home depot so I kept looking.

Eventually I went with option C, hockey pucks!


(Crappy cell pic)

I have a buddy who plays so he just gave me 4 pucks, total cost was about 3 dollars for the bolts, washers and jam nuts to get those fricken posts out (I wanna kill the engineer that thought that was a good idea).

End result is zero vibes!
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 03:29 PM
  #2  
89eliminator's Avatar
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Year: 1989 Comanche
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i've never seen that done before. kudos for thinking outside the box.
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 03:34 PM
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nice i like that you used actual hockey pucks haha
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 03:40 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by mobilecherokee4
nice i like that you used actual hockey pucks haha
I loved my buddies reply to my request for them.

"What the hell kinda backwards *** Canadian vehicle are you driving that can be upgraded with hockey pucks!?"
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 03:58 PM
  #5  
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hahahaha nice
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 05:00 PM
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I don't have any vibes after my lift but according to popular advice I should get an SYE or custom DS. In the meantime I was considering doing the TC drop; what are these dreaded studs everyone keeps cursing at? Are they between the frame and transfer case crossmember as something to align the two? I've exhausted the search feature and can't find any specific reference in anyone's pictures or posts...
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 05:08 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by alpine.adrenaline
I don't have any vibes after my lift but according to popular advice I should get an SYE or custom DS. In the meantime I was considering doing the TC drop; what are these dreaded studs everyone keeps cursing at? Are they between the frame and transfer case crossmember as something to align the two?
Your crossmember is attached with 2 bolts and 2 nuts. The bolts are just that, bolts, easy to remove. The nuts on the other hand are threaded onto posts which are in turn threaded into the uni-body.

Seems totally illogical since once you manage to back the posts out you can replace them with bolts that match the other 2.

People use different methods to remove them.
Some weld the nut and post together essentially making a bolt out of them.

Some people do what I did and get jam nuts which are just very narrow nuts. Basically you take off the stock nut and thread on a jam nut. Thread the jam nut up til you can thread the stock one back on. Then you tighten the two together and you can now (hopefully)back the post out.

Last edited by evmo; Sep 21, 2009 at 05:10 PM.
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 05:19 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by alpine.adrenaline
I don't have any vibes after my lift but according to popular advice I should get an SYE or custom DS. In the meantime I was considering doing the TC drop; what are these dreaded studs everyone keeps cursing at? Are they between the frame and transfer case crossmember as something to align the two? I've exhausted the search feature and can't find any specific reference in anyone's pictures or posts...

If you do not have any vibes in your driveline after installing the lift, then do not worry about the TC drop. You will only lose ground clearance under the Tcase.
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 05:23 PM
  #9  
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Thanks for the clarification, Evmo, I think I understand more of what I'm getting into, if I need to do it. I'm at 5.5" of lift and I've been told I can damage my TC or DS even if I don't have vibrations on the road. My ProComp leaf springs came with angled shims, do those usually suffice?
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