ok so how do i set the idle screw(not sure if thats what its called)i know how to move it but whats propper adjustment procedure?

 

Back the screw out all the way till the butterfly lays flat with no gap, then slowly turn the screw till theres just the slightest lift on the butterfly. No more that the size of a peoce of paper to fit through the gap.

 

Cruiser’s Renix Throttle Body Butterfly Adjustment

Okay. Let's start from scratch. First off, that's not an idle adjustment screw. It's a throttle butterfly stop screw. It's purpose is to allow the butterfly to be as close to completely closed as it can be without binding or wearing into the throttle body. It was never intended to be adjusted in the field. But, Uncle Bob didn’t know that, did he?

Engine off. Back off the butterfly stop screw with a 3/32" allen wrench until the butterfly is completely closed. Now. turn the screw in until the FAINTEST movement of the butterfly opening is detected. This can be done more easily with the throttle body removed. If you remove the throttle body, be sure to replace the gasket underneath it after thoroughly cleaning the old one off.

Revised 07/07/2012

 

Whats dumb about this is everything ive done is as youve described. Ive been workin on this old renix for almost 15 years and ive never had this happen! Its always been easy to fix but im pretty much pissed and it can sit for a few days. Im pullin the wire harness and sensors out, pullin the TB and startin fresh! Rewire the harness with new wires, clean tb again, and new iac and tps from jeep. If it dont work its gettin an LS swap with a Painless kit! Lol!!

 

Did you do this?

Cruiser’s Renix ECU Connector Refreshing

Many times when other fixes have failed, it becomes necessary to eliminate the ECU to harness connections as a cause. This requires removing the ECU.

Up under the dash, to the right of the steering column is the ECU. It is held in by three 10mm headed bolts to a bracket. It’s most easily removed using a ratcheting wrench but a socket will work.

Once you get the ECU down, unplug the two harness connectors from it. Visually inspect the connectors and pins.

Using a good quality electronics cleaner, liberally spray both of the harness ends and the ECU pin area.

Now, take a small pick or a dental tool and go to the harness connectors. Using the tool, tweak each female receptacle in the harness plugs so they will grasp the ECU pins more tightly.

Plug the harnesses back on to the ECU and reinstall it. I usually only use two of the bolts because the third is a bear.

Revised 07/11/12

 

Im on it today cruiser. Thanks for helpin so much. Ok what sensor or sensors tell the iac when and how much to open? Im gonna start troubleshooting farther down the line also. Im not a electronics guy at all just mechanical and suspension. I havent had bad issues with electronics on any of my rigs so im kinda learnin somethin new!

 

I didn't read through the whole thread but I just replaced my TPS yesterday and got a bad TPS from NAPA right out of the box. It looks like you have tried a couple of them...but just because its new doesnt mean it works..just a thought

 

Yeah im goin dealer direction this time for tps and iac. What o2 u guys recommend? I get mixed reviews on all the forums. Thinkin denso?

 

Ill have updates tomorrow on the idle issue, i havent had time this week to do **** on her. Kids in school and its cold!!

 

Were no vacuum leaks ever confirmed ?

 

I looked at it for like 10 minutes a day or 2 ago and no. But im defnitly gonna double check that first. Im gonna spnd the day tomorrow on it. Its time to retorque everything after th rebuild anyway, its been 5k.

 

Exactly how high of idle is it ?

 

2.5-3k. But only after it warms up a little. On cold start 1500ish and gradually goes up as it warms up.

 

Have you confirmed intakes flat on head looking from underneath its a very common issue ?

 

If its constant i think its got to be a vaccum leak somewhere. Maybe something is cracked. If its inconsistent id say its sensor related.