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"Hiccup" and stalling issue CPS???

Old 04-13-2013, 01:39 AM
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Default "Hiccup" and stalling issue CPS???

Hey guys,

Im hoping someone can help me with a problem i have been having that started about 2 months ago. so heres my story,

It all started with the jeep "hiccuping", more like a quick stutter, while driving at a consistent speed/rpm. Usually a low rpm around 2-2,500. It happened every once in a while and gradually happened more often over time.

About a month goes by and it would hiccup then randomly cut out, the engine would shut off and loose complete power. the speedometer dropped, and the engine light would turn on. So i would pull over to the side of the road, put her in park, shut her off and restart her right back up and pull away no problem without the engine light on anymore. This started to get worse too and happened twice in one day with more stuttering.

Last weekend it got really bad. sunday night while i was driving home she hiccuped, hit 200k miles (WOOHOO!! ) and then she cutout again. so i said ah what the hell and started her up again after i pulled over. no problem. 5 mins later it happened again except this time.. no dice with starting her back up. she cranked and cranked and nothing. i let her sit a few mins and she started up again, put her in drive and holy hell **** hit the fan. she started jumping aggressively, like she was going to cutout again but kept trying to stay on. then she finally cutout after a crazy 5 seconds. once i got her back up and running the engine light would stay on till she died again.

this happened about 2 more times that night and then the electric would cutout immediately before she could even crank. so i opened the hood, hit the battery terminals a few times. and she would get electrical power again. tried starting and it happened again. second time around she started up without the engine light and i was able to drive home, a quick 5 min drive without any hiccups or engine cutouts.

i was thinking this could be a CPS issue or any other kind of sensor issue, or a fuel issue. not too sure.. tomorrow morning im gonna try to see if i can get any codes

Last edited by bwb0440; 04-13-2013 at 02:09 AM.
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:01 AM
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Originally Posted by bwb0440 View Post
Hey guys, hit the battery terminals a few times. and she would get electrical power again.
Just start here, and go from there.

Battery gasses have a nasty habit of helping a thin, hard crust form on the bat post's and clamps. They can look pretty good, but that micro-thin layer is a surprisingly good insulator. SHINNY! Lead is what you want. I use a pocket knife, (gently), for the insides of the clamps. For the posts I might use one of those post cleaner wire brushes, but still scrape it with a blade. If you have a condition where you have power, (dash lights ect.), then when you hit it power goes out altogether, that's a common result of a layer of oxidization there. Btw, a half *** connection could be expected to get hot during cranking, or while it's trying. Cleaning those is something to do now and then anyway, so if you are having starting problems, you might want to make sure you have bare lead on lead. Might save you some grief!

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Old 04-13-2013, 02:07 AM
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[QUOTE=DFlintstone;2416500]Just start here, and go from there.

wow so that could actually cause the problems i have been having?? deff cleanin them up tomorrow and drive around town for a bit to see if that helps
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:14 AM
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Well, not really sayen that. Just if you get a different response after hitten a bat connection, go ahead and "put that one to bed", then see. Others here might be more familiar with your "new" Jeep than me!
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:24 AM
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I've seen smart guys posting that a bad battery, or it's connections can cause trouble. I'm pretty familiar with an alternator and a regulator, and I don't get it , really. Maybe to do with the battery "dampening" spikes or something the electronics don't like. The regulator (in your PCM), should keep the voltage about right. So just my .02...clean the terminals to shiny lead, then diagnose from there.


* You might get your codes read free at a parts store, lube shop, or a trans place. If you do, be sure to post them accurately. There are guys here who know that stuff.

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Old 04-13-2013, 02:39 AM
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone View Post
I've seen smart guys posting that a bad battery, or it's connections can cause trouble. I'm pretty familiar with an alternator and a regulator, and I don't get it , really. Maybe to do with the battery "dampening" spikes or something the electronics don't like. The regulator (in your PCM), should keep the voltage about right. So just my .02...clean the terminals to shiny lead, then diagnose from there.
Yeah im at a loss too.. the alternator is somewhat new too, barely a year old. after a little research earlier i was led to believe it could be my cps and i was really thinkin bout running to advanced auto to pickup a new one, then i heard it could be a bunch of other things because some guys still experienced some of the same problems as before after that was replaced... oh well we'll see tomorrow after i do some digging around! thanks for your input!
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Old 04-13-2013, 03:01 AM
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The weekends can be slow. No argument with a CPS issue, just you specifically posted you have an issue with the battery connection. If nothing else, re-post during the week....

Change a CPS. A jack-stand under the left frame might be in your way. Have it under the axle. You lay on your back with your feet out under the passenger side. With your LEFT hand you can reach up past the front drive-line to hold the CPS. (if your forearm is smaller than a quart mason jar)(if not maybe pull the drive-line). It's 7/16-/-11mm bolts on the older Jeeps. You want, socket,> 3 inch extension,> swivel,> then 18 to 24 inches of extension to your RIGHT hand , down on the ratchet by the tranny cross member. If there is a plastic deal there, can it. DON'T drop a bolt in there! (just don't!!!). When you are starting out, if you tie a long string, 5ive feet, to the old plug, you can then use that to haul the new one back up.
If your wires go through a metal band secured by an engine to bell housing bolt, cut them. To finish, zip tie, or make darn sure the wires won't rub/chafe or burn on anything. The second one is a relative piece of cake! ( hr job!)

Last edited by DFlintstone; 04-13-2013 at 03:23 AM.
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Old 04-13-2013, 05:00 AM
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Sounds like the ignition is dropping out, could be CPS, or a bad/loose connection somewhere related to the coil or ASD relay, or even a bad ignition switch. Try working your way backwards, jiggle the key- see if it cuts out. Swap the ASD relay with another. Check the coil, cap, coil wire for problems. No loose or corroded fuses. No loose PCM connectors. If that all checks out OK, grab a new CPS.
Cleaning the battery terminals, positive and ground- at both ends- is, as Dflintstone mentioned always a good idea. In fact do that before anything else. Stranger things happen.
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Old 04-18-2013, 01:45 AM
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Hey guys forgot to let you know that i changed the cps and fuel filter, and my problem seems to be resolved.. for now. so lets hope that actually did the trick! thanks!
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by bwb0440 View Post
Hey guys forgot to let you know that i changed the cps and fuel filter, and my problem seems to be resolved.. for now. so lets hope that actually did the trick! thanks!
Hey thanks for following up on this thread. Important, at least to me, to see how you resolved the issues. Have any problems doing the CPS?
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Old 04-18-2013, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Blue Angel View Post
Hey thanks for following up on this thread. Important, at least to me, to see how you resolved the issues. Have any problems doing the CPS?
Nah no issues with changing that. lucky to have small hands and arms haha had some help from a friend as well to make it a little easier
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