Just another question. Just curious, I have tried turning it both ways but what way SHOULD it turn? (if I am standing infront looking into the engine bay?)

 

You can get a propane torch at Lowes or home depot or wal mart for about 30 bucks. Look for it in the plumbing section, next to all of the soldering stuff. Make sure to use propane, MAPP gas might be too much. The nut will turn counterclockwise just the same as 99% of other fasteners. Chances are, you wont be able to replace the nut unless you replace the whole line. If you can get it off just this once, use vise grips to tighten/loosen it from now on, kinda cheesy but it is what it is...

 

I am not sure how the M/C positioned in the engine bay on ur jeep, mine is an auto. if you are looking directly at the nut, it should turn counterclockwise.

 

Yeah I figured I would end up Having to replace the whole line after this anyway. I really appreciate all the help. If I can't get it off before work today Ill just buy one of those torches or find someone who has one.

I imagine there is one just like it on the other end right? lol

Amazing how a 1 hour job turns into a huge project by one stupid nut.

But as you said it is what it is.

 

yeah, it kinda sucks not being able to take pictures. If I ever finish this project I am going to get a digital cam.

The master cyl just comes straight out of the engine bay, top of the cyl has a section that comes up and branches back towards the engine bay, thats where the line goes in and where the nut is.

 

i know they can be a real pain, two different metals reacting with each other can result in a real stuck nut.

don't heat it, you don't want to risk ruining any rubber seals.

i've had good luck with vise grips, real vise grip brand, not imitators.

you can cut the line at the nut and use one of those easy out sockets that are available at sears, that may work, but it also might just chew that nut to nothing and you will still have the end stuck inside the master.

wait, are you not replacing the master cylinder?
then you can just cut the line off and just replace the lines from the brake differential (proportioning valve) to the new master...

show us some pics of what you have and what you are removing, that will help.

 

yeah its getting replaced and its the clutch master cyl. I have a set of vice grips on there pretty tight now, I am going to get an extra set of hands and re position it and see if I can get them on tighter. If not Ill do the torch thing. Or just cut the whole damn thing off and replace the whole line.

 

oh, clutch. doh.

don't know much bout that, other than it's an internal slave....

but yeah, vise grips if you can get on it with enough room to twist it out, then you'll have to use vise grips to tighten it back up to the new one. as mentioned above.

 

SUCCESS!!! Finally after 3 days of trying I got really pissed at it and clamped those grips down as tight as humanly possible, I used a pair of channel lock pliers to clamp the vice grips on the bolt.

Now. I had no success in getting the bleeder screw open, so I just pumped the clutch, bubbles came out of the M/C fill bottle and the clutch got nice and stiff. I eased the flare nut back on enough to be tight I will start looking for a way to replace that before it gets frozen up on there again.

If air bubbles came up out of the fill bottle and then quit coming out, it should be pretty well bled right?

Again: Thank everyone for all the help and putting up with my newbness!!!

 

Good job, i am happy for you, hate those things you know you should be able to fix and you just cant

 

I know I have beat this thread to death I have one last question.

I do not want that old stripped nut to sieze back on there. What do you suggest to replace that, I know it is on there in a certain way, something about the end of the hose is flared? So instead of trying to get that reflared Is there a different way?

 

The only other way is to replace the entire line. I believe it is 1 piece from the master to the slave.

 

good job.

you could put a dab of permatex anti-seize on there so the two metals don't bond back together.
as long as you got it tight enough with the vise grips, and it doesn't leak, that's all that matters, right.
the anti-seize will make it easy as pie to remove in the future, whether you remove it, or the next owner.

 

anti seize cool. Thanks. Ill check for that next time I get over to the store.