I finally got my CEL to work after the PO pulled the bulb out, in an effort to understand why this little 2.5 takes forever and a day to crank sometimes.

The codes I got were:
12-Battery disconnected
24- Throttle pos. sensor malfunction (it was unplugged in my case)
54- Distributor sync pickup

Now, everything I can find that’s of any use is for the 4.0, not the 2.5. Anything I find about the 2.5 is conflicting. Some say replace the entire distributor. Some say to replace the crank sensor, some say to replace the camshaft sensor that’s located inside of the distributor, and others say to send the computer in to get rebuilt.

Now, what should I start with? This thing will take forever to crank, but other than that, as far as I can tell, it doesn’t effect anything else. Regarding the long cranking, that makes me think the crank sensor is suspect, but those normally fail outright.

So anything helpful would be greatly appreciated

 

Yeah Mopar is the only brand that will work for the ultra critical, cam sensor (distributor sync) and crank sensor. Even a junkyard Mopar sensor is more worth a shot than any new aftermarket. The magnets just arent strong enough.
I assume you mean takes forever to START, not CRANK?

 

I’ll make sure to get Mopar then

Ane yes, I meant it takes forever to catch, aka start

 

How's your spark? How's your fuel pressure?


But if you want to really understand car 54, ask these guys....

 

I’ve got good fuel pressure, and I just replaced all the plugs, along with wires, cap and rotor

 

How do you know you have good fuel pressure? A squirt from the Schrader valve tells you that fuel is present. It does not tell you that you have the correct fuel pressure.

Have you verified spark? Having good parts doesn't guarantee good spark, or any spark.

 

bad grounds will let it crank forever and never start

 

It was the ignition coil. Well, it was rather that the ignition coil connector wires were cut, and just ****ing taped together with electrical tape. The connector was also broken, and not making good enough contact. A new connector and some butt-connectors and heat shrink fixed it.

I spent 3 days wondering why my Jeep wouldn’t start after I put a trans in it about 4 months back, and come to find out it was because of what I just described. It was only throwing code 54, so I’m guessing when there’s no spark, it throws that code