Another, "side story" from Flintstone. I learned a few things from my dad, mechanical engineering degree from Birkley, and grew up during the depression. He told me a dirty trick used car dealers would do. Change a rear main seal when actually the mains were worn. If the crank has worn it's bearings it might move (down) a few thousands of an inch opening a gap where the seal should ride. Slap a new seal in there and it might be good for weeks, (long enough to sell it). With modern oil and 7 mains on the 4.0, no doubt that is less common.

Another "note". Mine pissed badly when my front vent tube off the valve cover to the air cleaner was restricted, causing excessive crank-case pressure. (I returned the RMS & gasket I had bought when I found that).

Glad you got it! Well done. Merry Christmas!

These work well . Oreilly can get them. Part# ES72863 Thats what I used last year on mine, used them in the past worth every penny of the 6 bucks!

Thanks. So you hold the gasket against the block with these, then slide the pan over them, correct?
I am doing that tomorrow. For now I removed the exhaust/intake to change the freeze plugs. I'll unbolt the pipe as well to slide in the pan more easily since my jeep is not lifted. Changing the trans mount as well and the front crankshaft seal. Thanks for the info.

and frams one piece perma seal gaskets work wonders.

Yes sir I removed the pass side upper control arm bolt so pan would clear. My jeep was stock height when I did the pan . I lifted the front and put stands just behind the lower control mount . Let the suspension droop, finagle pan out.
I always keep some of the snap ups in my tool box handier than pockets on a shirt.

You mean fel pro ? That's the one I used .

yea, oops,dumbazz me, felpro. dont know why framcrap on the mind at that time.

Fram? That's a bad word round these parts............

Failed Right At Motor

Forever Ruining Another Motor

Oooh. Good ones.