help please...harmonic balancer keyway fell in

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Jan 21, 2012 | 06:03 PM
  #106  
Don't know if it's in Chinese! The first time I used this stuff it was about 1$!

The link here has info on Plastigauge. Click on "how it works" at the bottom if you like. http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/

You might be interested in your clearance's and if anything is out of round. Easy but time consuming. You could even do one last check with the new inserts to see what you ended up with. (I think my #5 rod is out of spec) (or "clearanced", is another term)
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Jan 21, 2012 | 06:04 PM
  #107  
Quote: It's just a tad harder than Legos. You might find is surprisingly unforgiving, but, yea. Once the top one is rotated all the way around so it's on the bottom, mostly just the oil is sticking it on. You will want a new (two piece) rear main seal also.
i found a thread says loosen all main bolts and they will spin out without dropping the crank
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Jan 21, 2012 | 06:08 PM
  #108  
Oh, just that the rear main seal is right under your nose and it's no fun when it leaks. 10 or 12$, I'd do it. Also it's worn to where the crank is now.
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Jan 21, 2012 | 06:12 PM
  #109  
If your inserts are stamped oversize, they probably installed a new oil pump.
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Jan 21, 2012 | 06:15 PM
  #110  
Quote: If your inserts are stamped oversize, they probably installed a new oil pump.
very possible
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Jan 21, 2012 | 06:21 PM
  #111  
gotta eat and shower, thank you guys. i will be back..lol, also, mechanic said if thrust bearing is shot may as well replace motor, why would he say that? Is their something or some other way that this is supposed to be done?
thanks
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Jan 21, 2012 | 06:26 PM
  #112  
Quote: gotta eat and shower, thank you guys. i will be back..lol, also, mechanic said if thrust bearing is shot may as well replace motor, why would he say that? Is their something or some other way that this is supposed to be done?
thanks
as long as motor rand good with good oil pressure id replace them .. i was ase certified for years doing this crap been in the field all my life but thats up to you .if all else is good with motor id replace the thats why they sell new bearings
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Jan 21, 2012 | 07:21 PM
  #113  
I would. I'd probably run that pump, do the rods/mains & seal, even if my compression readings where not so hot. I come from famously thrifty heritage though! I don't think those parts add up to much.

Curious what it looks like. The condition of that thrust bearing...why so much play? Also scoring or "other " journal issues.

If a rod journal is out of round causing a knock, it probably still will with new inserts, but doesn't sound like that's your issue.

Packing myself for a 300mi. trip tomorrow, over no hot water in a rental!
(I'm gonna look for that piece of broken crank I mentioned earlier while I'm there Btw,)

ADDED, There has gotta be specs for the pump somewhere. You just might want to break out the feeler gauge and see if it's a joke! ,(clearanced)
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Jan 21, 2012 | 07:52 PM
  #114  
Thats the thing though, the few days I ran it it made no noises, no knocks or anything. Dumb question, could have tightening the dampener pulled on the crank enough to mess up the thrust bearing? I dont know...just trying to figure it out. I will see if I can get the parts tomorrow and put it back together..sounds like it should be alright.

I still dont know why I was told by 2 mechanics that if the thrust bearing is bad its easier to just replace the motor. Why would they say that?
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Jan 21, 2012 | 08:35 PM
  #115  
You ran the engin, no significant knocks, must have had some oil pressure. You have limited budget in this project. Go with the new thrust bearing and rear main seal. New pan seal if you can.
The mechanics are balogna, just covering the backsides.
Ducter, you have already demonstrated your competent to do this by the extent of work you've already done, great video! Your son can probably be a big help in this. Go with loosening the main caps, not removal, and replace only the thrust. Then run her like you own her.
Consider another mechanic for future rather than the two with the absolutely limited and useless advice. Sounds like they want to do an expensive motor job on you.
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Jan 21, 2012 | 08:41 PM
  #116  
Quote: You ran the engin, no significant knocks, must have had some oil pressure. You have limited budget in this project. Go with the new thrust bearing and rear main seal. New pan seal if you can.
The mechanics are balogna, just covering the backsides.
Ducter, you have already demonstrated your competent to do this by the extent of work you've already done, great video! Your son can probably be a big help in this. Go with loosening the main caps, not removal, and replace only the thrust. Then run her like you own her.
Consider another mechanic for future rather than the two with the absolutely limited and useless advice. Sounds like they want to do an expensive motor job on you.
Thanks for the kind words and encouragement. I am going to give it a shot, just gotta find the parts.

thanks again, seriously guys, thanks.
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Jan 21, 2012 | 09:11 PM
  #117  
Quote: Thats the thing though, the few days I ran it it made no noises, no knocks or anything. Dumb question, could have tightening the dampener pulled on the crank enough to mess up the thrust bearing? I dont know...just trying to figure it out. I will see if I can get the parts tomorrow and put it back together..sounds like it should be alright.

I still dont know why I was told by 2 mechanics that if the thrust bearing is bad its easier to just replace the motor. Why would they say that?
most likely they dont think you can replace them with the crank shaft in the xj most the time you have to pull the motor and when its out you might as well rebuild it would be my though...which gets costly and time consumeing might as well get a nother and drop it in and yourdone
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Jan 21, 2012 | 09:17 PM
  #118  
I'm learning more here on the 4.0 than suggesting somebody jiggle there shifter for the 100th time! A rod is often what goes first, and it's a killer. $20 at rock auto for the set. And, X2! well done. (give the man a torque-wrench!).

Usually a knock is a rod. Usually that does the crank. Gonna do the crank, heck, timing chain. Your that far, ridge ream and hone, new rings + valve job.....
cam-lifters. Maybe that's also motivating your guy(s).

Like said I'd just do the bearings and seal. Maybe check the pump. You gotta un-bolt them all to get one anyway.
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Jan 21, 2012 | 09:38 PM
  #119  
Quote: I'm learning more here on the 4.0 than suggesting somebody jiggle there shifter for the 100th time! A rod is often what goes first, and it's a killer. $20 at rock auto for the set. And, X2! well done. (give the man a torque-wrench!).

Usually a knock is a rod. Usually that does the crank. Gonna do the crank, heck, timing chain. Your that far, ridge ream and hone, new rings + valve job.....
cam-lifters. Maybe that's also motivating your guy(s).

Like said I'd just do the bearings and seal. Maybe check the pump. You gotta un-bolt them all to get one anyway.
ditto be done
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Jan 22, 2012 | 10:11 AM
  #120  
just got thrust bearing out, bottom half...it doesnt look bad, least to me?

thanks



also, would this be 010 over sized, or under?

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