help please...harmonic balancer keyway fell in
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Don't know if it's in Chinese! The first time I used this stuff it was about 1$!
The link here has info on Plastigauge. Click on "how it works" at the bottom if you like. http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/
You might be interested in your clearance's and if anything is out of round. Easy but time consuming. You could even do one last check with the new inserts to see what you ended up with. (I think my #5 rod is out of spec) (or "clearanced", is another term)
The link here has info on Plastigauge. Click on "how it works" at the bottom if you like. http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/
You might be interested in your clearance's and if anything is out of round. Easy but time consuming. You could even do one last check with the new inserts to see what you ended up with. (I think my #5 rod is out of spec) (or "clearanced", is another term)
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
i found a thread says loosen all main bolts and they will spin out without dropping the crank
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Oh, just that the rear main seal is right under your nose and it's no fun when it leaks. 10 or 12$, I'd do it. Also it's worn to where the crank is now.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
gotta eat and shower, thank you guys. i will be back..lol, also, mechanic said if thrust bearing is shot may as well replace motor, why would he say that? Is their something or some other way that this is supposed to be done?
thanks
thanks
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
as long as motor rand good with good oil pressure id replace them .. i was ase certified for years doing this crap been in the field all my life but thats up to you .if all else is good with motor id replace the thats why they sell new bearings
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
I would. I'd probably run that pump, do the rods/mains & seal, even if my compression readings where not so hot. I come from famously thrifty heritage though! I don't think those parts add up to much.
Curious what it looks like. The condition of that thrust bearing...why so much play? Also scoring or "other " journal issues.
If a rod journal is out of round causing a knock, it probably still will with new inserts, but doesn't sound like that's your issue.
Packing myself for a 300mi. trip tomorrow, over no hot water in a rental!
(I'm gonna look for that piece of broken crank I mentioned earlier while I'm there Btw,)
ADDED, There has gotta be specs for the pump somewhere. You just might want to break out the feeler gauge and see if it's a joke! ,(clearanced)
Curious what it looks like. The condition of that thrust bearing...why so much play? Also scoring or "other " journal issues.
If a rod journal is out of round causing a knock, it probably still will with new inserts, but doesn't sound like that's your issue.
Packing myself for a 300mi. trip tomorrow, over no hot water in a rental!
(I'm gonna look for that piece of broken crank I mentioned earlier while I'm there Btw,)
ADDED, There has gotta be specs for the pump somewhere. You just might want to break out the feeler gauge and see if it's a joke! ,(clearanced)
Last edited by DFlintstone; Jan 21, 2012 at 07:28 PM.
Thats the thing though, the few days I ran it it made no noises, no knocks or anything. Dumb question, could have tightening the dampener pulled on the crank enough to mess up the thrust bearing? I dont know...just trying to figure it out. I will see if I can get the parts tomorrow and put it back together..sounds like it should be alright.
I still dont know why I was told by 2 mechanics that if the thrust bearing is bad its easier to just replace the motor. Why would they say that?
I still dont know why I was told by 2 mechanics that if the thrust bearing is bad its easier to just replace the motor. Why would they say that?
CF Veteran

Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 12
From: Ontario, Canada
Year: 1989 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L 6 Renix
You ran the engin, no significant knocks, must have had some oil pressure. You have limited budget in this project. Go with the new thrust bearing and rear main seal. New pan seal if you can.
The mechanics are balogna, just covering the backsides.
Ducter, you have already demonstrated your competent to do this by the extent of work you've already done, great video! Your son can probably be a big help in this. Go with loosening the main caps, not removal, and replace only the thrust. Then run her like you own her.
Consider another mechanic for future rather than the two with the absolutely limited and useless advice. Sounds like they want to do an expensive motor job on you.
The mechanics are balogna, just covering the backsides.
Ducter, you have already demonstrated your competent to do this by the extent of work you've already done, great video! Your son can probably be a big help in this. Go with loosening the main caps, not removal, and replace only the thrust. Then run her like you own her.
Consider another mechanic for future rather than the two with the absolutely limited and useless advice. Sounds like they want to do an expensive motor job on you.
You ran the engin, no significant knocks, must have had some oil pressure. You have limited budget in this project. Go with the new thrust bearing and rear main seal. New pan seal if you can.
The mechanics are balogna, just covering the backsides.
Ducter, you have already demonstrated your competent to do this by the extent of work you've already done, great video! Your son can probably be a big help in this. Go with loosening the main caps, not removal, and replace only the thrust. Then run her like you own her.
Consider another mechanic for future rather than the two with the absolutely limited and useless advice. Sounds like they want to do an expensive motor job on you.
The mechanics are balogna, just covering the backsides.
Ducter, you have already demonstrated your competent to do this by the extent of work you've already done, great video! Your son can probably be a big help in this. Go with loosening the main caps, not removal, and replace only the thrust. Then run her like you own her.
Consider another mechanic for future rather than the two with the absolutely limited and useless advice. Sounds like they want to do an expensive motor job on you.
thanks again, seriously guys, thanks.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Thats the thing though, the few days I ran it it made no noises, no knocks or anything. Dumb question, could have tightening the dampener pulled on the crank enough to mess up the thrust bearing? I dont know...just trying to figure it out. I will see if I can get the parts tomorrow and put it back together..sounds like it should be alright.
I still dont know why I was told by 2 mechanics that if the thrust bearing is bad its easier to just replace the motor. Why would they say that?
I still dont know why I was told by 2 mechanics that if the thrust bearing is bad its easier to just replace the motor. Why would they say that?
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
I'm learning more here on the 4.0 than suggesting somebody jiggle there shifter for the 100th time! A rod is often what goes first, and it's a killer. $20 at rock auto for the set. And, X2! well done. (give the man a torque-wrench!). 
Usually a knock is a rod. Usually that does the crank. Gonna do the crank, heck, timing chain. Your that far, ridge ream and hone, new rings + valve job.....
cam-lifters. Maybe that's also motivating your guy(s).
Like said I'd just do the bearings and seal. Maybe check the pump. You gotta un-bolt them all to get one anyway.
Usually a knock is a rod. Usually that does the crank. Gonna do the crank, heck, timing chain. Your that far, ridge ream and hone, new rings + valve job.....
cam-lifters. Maybe that's also motivating your guy(s).
Like said I'd just do the bearings and seal. Maybe check the pump. You gotta un-bolt them all to get one anyway.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
I'm learning more here on the 4.0 than suggesting somebody jiggle there shifter for the 100th time! A rod is often what goes first, and it's a killer. $20 at rock auto for the set. And, X2! well done. (give the man a torque-wrench!). 
Usually a knock is a rod. Usually that does the crank. Gonna do the crank, heck, timing chain. Your that far, ridge ream and hone, new rings + valve job.....
cam-lifters. Maybe that's also motivating your guy(s).
Like said I'd just do the bearings and seal. Maybe check the pump. You gotta un-bolt them all to get one anyway.
Usually a knock is a rod. Usually that does the crank. Gonna do the crank, heck, timing chain. Your that far, ridge ream and hone, new rings + valve job.....
cam-lifters. Maybe that's also motivating your guy(s).
Like said I'd just do the bearings and seal. Maybe check the pump. You gotta un-bolt them all to get one anyway.
just got thrust bearing out, bottom half...it doesnt look bad, least to me?
thanks

also, would this be 010 over sized, or under?
thanks

also, would this be 010 over sized, or under?
Last edited by ducter; Jan 22, 2012 at 10:25 AM. Reason: added additional photo


