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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 09:41 PM
  #16  
irishexpat's Avatar
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so i got the "PCV valve"


looks exactly the same as the elbow valve on the back of the valve cover....so i put in the new one.


replaced my valve cover gasket.....and lost 2 screws putting it back on....they fell down right by the firewall....no luck finding them.



when i went to do the sending unit, i found out i dont have a wrench big enough, so thats tomorrow's project. I started up the jeep and let it run for a bit, seeing if the oil pressure issue would happen again. then i noticed a sound. i think its coming from the bottom of the engine, and it sounds halfway between a gasoline and diesel engine.....not as clunky as a diesel, but not like a normal gas engine either. i made a video on my phone....hopefully the sound works well enough.





maybe the bolts fell on top of the transmission and are rattling around? the noise did sound louder underneath the jeep.....i just hope its not something serious.
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 06:34 AM
  #17  
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edit: me being neruotic

Last edited by irishexpat; Mar 3, 2011 at 10:48 AM.
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 08:21 AM
  #18  
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edit: me still being neurotic

Last edited by irishexpat; Mar 3, 2011 at 10:48 AM.
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 10:50 AM
  #19  
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so i did a bit more research on engine noises while cold....and ive calmed down a bit.


when i get home tonight ill take another video of the engine running cold, focusing on the top and bottom.


then ill take another video of it running hot, for comparison. Hopefully, there will be no noise.



ill be driving it to advance auto for a replacement set of valve cover bolts...do they sell those there?
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 11:01 AM
  #20  
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howdy,

just go to dealer or Junk yard....they are not PCV type connection. they are just a feed through elbow connector for one pipe i believe goes to air box (where air filter is) and the other to the intake manifold (at least on mine it does). when my pipe broke, the rear one, i used some 3/8" braided steel rubber hose and it has worked great for over ten years.

just a suggestion...

good luck sir!

cpnwrench
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 11:04 AM
  #21  
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does the noise go away after you drive it around and then come to a stop and pop the hood?? What I am trying to clarify is if the noise comes from when it sits idling or also while running..??

The bolts should be on top of the Trans. **if they were lost on the back side**.. I did that with a socket when I was getting the back bolts undone. I have a magnetic pickup thing(there like .99 @ autozone), it looks like a antenna, anyways I just used that and a flashlight and was able to see the socket by shining the light back above the trans. while standing at the front of the vehicle..
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 11:05 AM
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howdy (again)

i went to Lowe's and looked in their machine hardware bins when I lost one of mine.

take one with you and match it up should be grade 8 or better like 11 mm and forget the pitch or metric designation. but they have a thread and pitch gauge there.

sorry i missed all the thread action.

cpnwrench
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 11:40 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by SamSissine2
does the noise go away after you drive it around and then come to a stop and pop the hood?? What I am trying to clarify is if the noise comes from when it sits idling or also while running..??
i will be testing that out when i get off of work, hopefully its only at a cold idle....if it continues throughout all my tests i will be worried about lower engine bearing/rods/whatever else is down there being loose and messed up.

Originally Posted by SamSissine2
The bolts should be on top of the Trans. **if they were lost on the back side**.. I did that with a socket when I was getting the back bolts undone. I have a magnetic pickup thing(there like .99 @ autozone), it looks like a antenna, anyways I just used that and a flashlight and was able to see the socket by shining the light back above the trans. while standing at the front of the vehicle..
i tried shining a light down there and didnt see anything....my plan was to drive it in the hopes that they fall off, and then buying 15 new bolts for the valve cover.....since some of them didnt want to thread in (is that a problem?)

Originally Posted by cpnwrench
howdy (again)

i went to Lowe's and looked in their machine hardware bins when I lost one of mine.

take one with you and match it up should be grade 8 or better like 11 mm and forget the pitch or metric designation. but they have a thread and pitch gauge there.

sorry i missed all the thread action.

cpnwrench

i will go to lowes tonight with a bolt for comparison and pick em up....thanks for the tip!



please oh please....dont let the engine in my month old xj that ive driven less than 200 miles be shot. PLEASE!
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 11:43 AM
  #24  
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just did the same thing. pcv elbow is what they called it
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 12:15 PM
  #25  
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just thought of this....in the (hopefully) unlikely event that components in the lower engine have gone outside tolerances and are causing the noise.....would there be evidence of this in the oil analysis i am already planning to do?
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 01:28 PM
  #26  
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howdy,

this might sound really dumb,

by chance have you tried to replace the knock sensor?

also, when is the last time you have checked for codes?

did you or have you ever taken the oil pan off?
i only ask, cuz, if you have and you know whats involved you can probably get under it and check torque on all your bearing caps and rod caps to make sure they are not A). Loose, B). damaged.

also you can see whats what in the depths of your oil pan.

now, if you have not done that, and you want to, (to try and save some money), make sure you plan for a weekend to do it. As you really do want to take your time on that effort.

anyway, just some random thoughts.

good luck sir!

cpnwrench
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 01:35 PM
  #27  
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one question on the valve cover bolts....are all 15 of them the same size and depth?

or do they vary for different spots?


i only ask because i had difficulty putting a few on....it felt like they were too short...
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 01:46 PM
  #28  
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the valve cove bolts ar the same head size (either 10mm or 11mm) but yes they vary

one or two are actually a bolt-nut-bolt combo as there are the plastic plug wire guides which secure to the top portion of one of them so you need the deep socket to torque the bolt onto the valve cover, then place the plastic plug wire guide on that, THEN, the 10/11mm nut to secure the plug wire guide down.

but the thread pitch and bolt diameter and length are the same,
(the length that actually screws into the head)

what I did to be sure they went back into the same holes was this,

on a long piece of cardboard box (at least as long as the valve cover)

i drew a rough sketch of the valve cover, counted the number of bolts on the valve cover and drew dots on the drawing as to approx location, then punched holes in the cardboard and as i removed the bolts i placed them in the hole appropriate for that location (obviously, noting F for front and R for rear on the cardboard).....

hope this might help you.


good luck sir!

cpnwrench
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 01:49 PM
  #29  
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would have helped me 2 nights ago


but, i have about half with the bolt on top of the nut and half without.....and when i took off the valve cover first, only one bolt actually had a wire attached to the top of the bolt....the rest had nothing different from the normal nuts.



i just want to make sure i do this right.....i have no mechanical background and i dont want to damage anything (worse than it already is)
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Old Mar 3, 2011 | 01:55 PM
  #30  
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Default valve cover bolts

You can get a whole set from www.teamcherokee....you should also probally buy a repair manual.I got mine from Haynes...I did my 99 XJ valve cover last week, it really helps when you doing a job for the first time.It gives you the torque values too for those bolts...too tight and its gonna leak for sure.
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