Since I picked up the Jeep last weekend I've been cleaning it up as much as possible and that included climbing underneath and wire wheel'ing as much surface rust as possible and undercoating it. Planning on this being my daily driver for a while so I want to keep it from rotting to pieces. And really aside from a few places it's pretty solid.

So basically, in the front floor pans right around the drain plugs is rotted out a bit and will need replaced and today I pulled some of the trim panels out of the back to investigate that and found this...



Seen much worse but I want to stop this from spreading and replace what's rotted. I do work at a body shop so I was going to see if one of the techs would help me out. The floor pans don't seem bad but has anyone replaced the whole rear? And where's the best place to source these replacement panels?

Seems most of the rust starts around drain plugs on these things, were they just not coated well from the factory or why are these so notorious for rust? I suppose living in the rust belt doesn't help.

Thanks in advance
Nick

 

Anyone?

 

floor pan repair....

Here is a start?


Front Driver Side Floor Pan for 84-01 Jeep® Cherokee XJ
» Click here for details $94.99 72608.8500

Rear Driver Side Floor Pan for 84-01 Jeep® Cherokee XJ
» Click here for details $94.99 72608.8502

Rear Passenger Side Floor Pan for 84-01 Jeep® Cherokee XJ
» Click here for details $94.99 72608.8503




Front Passnenger Side Floor Pan for 84-01 Jeep® Cherokee XJ
» Click here for details $94.99 72608.8501

 

for the drain plug rust... I would blame the capillary effect. The same principle penetrating lubes work on. Water seeps up the rubber and on the metal.

I hate sheet metal cancer... When I see it my first reaction is turn tail and run for my life! However repairing it isn't all that hard especially if you have the time, materials and tools to do it right.
you need to figure out just how much is done for and what is still solid.
Use a body hammer pick and tap away at the cancer working your way out until the hammer strikes solid sheet metal.

Mark all the places that need to be cut out and make a template for the new panel out of card board or something you can trace to the replacement panel.

Cut out the compromised metal from the pan and the shape of the replacement panel. Burn it in and coat it top and bottom. Or if you rivet it I believe you leave an overhang so you can use sealant and be able to drill holes for the rivets.

 

I've got a buddy who says "...don't fear rust. Rust is your friend. It causes you to restore to as-new and that is good."

He's a recovering alchoholic.

 

i just fixed about 4holes in mine (3small & one pretty big) i used fiberglass i still have put a layer on the bottom, but it seems really stong & easy to work with.

 

Good idea on the hammer. The back seems to be the worst, the front areas seem small and just around the drain plug...but the rear is what I'm worried about most. I'll see what I can knock away and just how much is damaged. Like I said though, I work at a body shop (I detail cars there) but one of the body techs would be giving me a hand with this as I've never done it and don't know how to weld.

Interesting thought with the fiberglass. I have plenty of experience with this stuff. Would this work if say you knocked and ground away all the rust you could, sealed the metal and then glass over it? I know it would be strong enough but would it stand the test of time?

Thanks guys

 

That's funny, guy has same rust issues as I do and we both have modded svt foci (just thought that was funny)

Any ways, I plan on getting the floor pan from quadratec, the exact same one in picture, but when I spoke to quadratec rep he told me the big hole is drain plug and the other four holes are for studs to mount the seats, but with that pan the holes don't match up to where seats mount, can anyone provide some incite on this?

 

You work at a shop, can you get someone to weld it up for you?

Another option is to just use a metal sheet attached with pop rivets to cover the hole. Once its cleaned up of course.

 

Ha! No way, that's awesome

Yea that's the plan. Going to see how much he'd charge to do it with me helping aswell. I'd rather have it done right if I go the metal right rather than me screwing around trying to figure out how to do it. I'm still curious on the fiberglass idea though.

 

Glass would work for small areas but I would rather go metal. If its area that attaches to the uni-frame rail the only real option is metal as thats structural. It should not be too hard if you have a guy that is good with body repair, just time consuming.