So when i go to start up today, it turns on and runs fine. I put it in drive, go about a half mile, stop, turn left, accelerate, and it smoothly dies. Not the power, because the radio stays on, just the fuel. When i hold the accelerator all the way down it struggles but comes to life. After this, all i do is touch the pedal, barely, and it revs itself to 3k RPM. Sometimes stays alive, sometimes sputters and dies. At random points it'll shift or rev itself. But until it decides its done acting up, if i put it in drive and hit the gas and sputters and stalls.

Its happened twice today and i have boughten a TPS from autozone, but i dont have any codes. Im just hoping i dont have to buy a fuel pump.

150K miles, and i did the CPS about 6 months ago.

 

BTW when its warmed this whole ordeal goes away, but its left me stranded in the middle of the street quit a few times.

 

ok, the first thing to mind is the TPS. throttle positions sensor. it can effect the throttle and some tranny function. the other thought is the IAC valve. idle air control valve. it tell the jeep when to switch between low and high idle. they are simple and relativley cheap parts that are easy to install. the other things might be the cap/rotor, or plugs/wires, injectors, coil, or o2 sensors. the upstream o2 is more important than the downstream one. ive been told i could simply clip the wires going to my downstream sensor and it wouldnt throw a code... good luck man!!
nice audio set up, btw. what kinda head unit?

 

thanks for the help but those things wouldnt effect my fuel being cut off except the TPS. i have replaced those recently, everything except the TPS. i trying to do it now but i cant get the stock bolts off!!! what size are they

 

the head unit is a AIWA btw, thanks

 

i just finished replacing the TPS and that didnt work. nothing changed at all. pleas help guys

 

New battery, new spark plugs = fixed.

 

Load test your battery. Free at any parts store.

It is the only accurate way of determining battery condition.

A marginal battery can create stalling. Very common symptom actually.

 

Dude read my explanation before you post. Its not a battery issue. The car will eventually start, and when it does stall, the radio stays on.

 

You can have a battery strong enough to start the engine, but marginal enough to give the engine management system fits. I can't tell you how many times I have found this.

Sure, it could be something else, but a simple load test will rule this in or out.

The radio takes only minute juice to keep it going. That is no indication that the battery is good.

 

i just tested a different battery and its still there. but i dont know how i didnt notice this before, the engine temp gauge is going crazy from sticking straight up to 0. when it goes straight up it revs and drives like it used to. when it goes to 0 i notice the problem. so i guess its safe to say the engine temp sensor is gone? on my 97 its on the water pump right?

 

So i replaced the temp sensor. now i have a check engine light. the car has to have throttle wide open to start. it drives normally but the temp gauge wont go above the first tick. it moves but wont go up. i used white tape to thread it in. could i have put too much on and messed it up?...i also had to replace my battery. it was completely drained after all this. but even with the new battery and the new coolant sensor its not right.

help guys

 

any 4.0l experts you guys can refer me to?

 

[QUOTE=red97cherokeewithsunroof;840820]now i have a check engine light./QUOTE]

This is the best news you have seen so far. A check engine light means you have a "stored code" that will almost assuredly yield a clue.

The strategy for a vehicle with a check engine light is ALWAYS the same.

Pull the stored codes. Autozone pulls them for free. Otherwise, you will need a code reader or a scan tool. Some early 97 models work on pulling codes with the key on, key off technique, but you are way better off getting the full code that is only available with a code reader.

Post the EXACT code here for comment.

There is hope. OBD is not perfect, and interpreting codes is not always straight forward, but the system is terrific at leading you the right direction.

 

O2 sensor? Throttle cable sticking? Intake valve stuck/valve spring?