Shouldn't it start if I unplug all of the sensors not necessary for starting.

 

It might run with just the CPS and the MAP...not sure though. I'd like to hear you verified that start relay terminal is shooting good juice to your fuel pump while it's cranking.

It can't work right without the TPS. Double not sure there.

 

I checked the voltage at the fuel pump connector while cranking, it came out to about 11.5 volts. If it wasn't working, I wouldn't get any voltage at that connector, right?

 

If WHAT wasn't working?

 

The start relay that DFlinstone was talking about.

 

Edit, added.. OH! So you saw 11.5 back at the fuel pump connector while cranking? Then that would settle that. (So the below is NA).
And to answer your question...not positive. It will get power for a couple of seconds with it not working, but exactly when the "baton" get's passed I'm not dead sure. 300 RPM and a couple of revs might do it. If that were the case It's odd they added that starter relay circuit. Or it may need to start to shift to the fuel pump relay. Idk

The reason I keep hitting that drum is that, that, has the potential to cause your problem. Nice to know the top left terminal on the start relay is providing power to the pump while it's cranking. Since you are "pre ballast resistor", I have no idea where that connects to the fuel pump power wire. Myself, if I didn't have a better path to follow, I might verify it's actually making it to the pump. (or maybe just monitor fuel pressure during that long crank).

 

I hate to wade back into this but how about this assuming the observations are accurately reported:

1) It runs and drives fine after starting on ether. That means that the fuel pump, fuel pressure, fuel injectors, spark plugs, coil, ICM, cam sensor, TPS, CPS, MAP, O2, knock, ECU are all functioning adequately after fire up.

Given the above, it still has an excessively long crank time.
-Could be weak CPS (would expect driveability issues such as random stalling though).
- Ignition switch could be flaky (has a sweet spot that driver isn't always hitting). This would explain it working in RUN and not START.
-Weak spark (I can't believe though)-bad coil/ICM but it runs ok after.
-Could be a warm engine related issue (bad ground becomes good ground once engine warm but video shows almost immediate fire up on ether).

I'm out of ideas. Maybe voodoo or other curse.

 

Ignition switch is out as a problem, I hooked up a remote start switch and it won't start without ether in either run or start, starts with ether in run or start

Checked the signal from the CPS at the ECU connector and was getting .7ac volts

Ground is out too, I just refreshed an already previously refreshed ground

Only other thing is weak spark, but I've switched the coils out, and I only have one functioning ICM, I would have to buy one

 

Do a spark test with the plugs in. You can buy an adjustable spark tester or just use a screwdriver or something, you should be able to get a 1/2" spark, probably more. The testers are 'calibrated' with voltage markers to give a rough idea of how much spark energy you have. As much as everyone is stating that it can't be spark, it's a simple test to rule that out. If nothing else, please do it for me just to make me feel better.

 

When I mentioned that the spark will bridge a gap bigger than .25 of an inch, I was testing that with the plugs in.

 

Ahh, missed that. If it's a strong consistent spark at 1/4" it should be sufficient, but you should test a larger gap to really know you have enough energy. It takes a lot more to jump the plug gap under pressure. Test all 6, or at least more than one.

 

At least once I had something with compression so low it would take a bit to go....

And this comment needed a little Brandy. Might there be a window where it's flooded and not firing on gas, but will fire on starter fluid?

So it runs strong once it's running. You can punch it it 35 MPH, and be going 60 pretty quick? Idle is smooth, and it transitions from idle to accelerate no problem?

Weak spark can show up both at idle and while "punching" it. It actually takes more voltage to jump the plug gap under higher compression. (Gassing it)

 

The flooded and firing on starter fluid window is definitely there. As are the low compression and weak spark windows. Ether is much more volatile than gasoline and will ignite more easily even in the presence of excess gasoline, lack of compression, and marginal spark. Compression, spark, and fuel presence need to be checked under the normal conditions where it won't start. Compression with a gauge, spark with a spark test, fuel is a bit of a wildcard, but tailpipe sniffing should give at least a clue if there's none or some. If you can smell it it might be too much or not enough, and then judgement will have to determine whether it's a mild amount of smell or excessive. If it's excessive the smell should be pretty pungent.

 

I wish he were local, I'd do some free diagnostics just to satisfy my curiosity at this point.

 

I had a thought the other day. Could my ICM possibly be on it's way out, so the voltage going through it is lower than it should be?