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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 09:24 PM
  #31  
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If i did pressure trst whats normal psi in each cyclinder
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 08:02 AM
  #32  
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cylinder compression pressure should read 155-185 psi with no more than 30 psi difference between cylinders.

JesusFreak777, I want to apologize, I was the first to reply and I told you the head may be cracked or the head gasket was bad. I see now after more replys from you it looks to be only a coolant problem.
Looks like you have that corrected with the new water pump, radiator and clean coolant system. I hope every thing is ok now.
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 08:33 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by DaddyCat
cylinder compression pressure should read 155-185 psi with no more than 30 psi difference between cylinders.

JesusFreak777, I want to apologize, I was the first to reply and I told you the head may be cracked or the head gasket was bad. I see now after more replys from you it looks to be only a coolant problem.
Looks like you have that corrected with the new water pump, radiator and clean coolant system. I hope every thing is ok now.
When i posted i was upset and it was like 1am so i was tired. I think that they added lots of water amd some type of additive and i dont think the water pump was movin much coolent. Plus it was sittin because they bought a new jeep.But i will get rad hooked up today may do a pressure test to be 1000000% sure. But with spark plugs looke perfect and with checkin other things i think she was mad because she had old parts and wanted new ones. She was havin a case of JPMS. Maybe she was upset because i dont were the mud trails are so she isnt muddy. Lol
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 08:41 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by JesusFreak777
Sadly my Xj was towed home tonight. It would heat to the line right abouve 260 then go back to the line after the 210 then back like 5-10 min later. Then notice mud looking stuff in rad and the oil looks fine. T-stat??????? help sry its late and i had no clue what to search for. Plus i need it back thanks in advance.
It's not oil in the rad its rust mine had the same thing what u need to do is drain the coolant and flush it out its easy just look in the Manuel good luck
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 08:42 AM
  #35  
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the lower transmission line to the radiator gave me trouble when I replaced my radiator, I could not get it off (I did get it off but it was a buggar). Some people say you can squeeze the "quick release" looking fitting to get it off but there are transmission line tools that might work better. Something like this:


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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 08:45 AM
  #36  
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We got it all off. That line was a little pain, but we got it. We have wp/tsta back on and serp belt. It got little cold so we took break finishing up to day. Also this might be a stupid question but i can do pressuer test without the rad hook or should i just wait till i hook everything up?
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 09:00 AM
  #37  
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coolant pressure test or cylinder compression test? I guess you mean cylinder compression test. Engine should be at normal operating temp when you do a compression test, so after you get her all back together.


Compression test should be done with a fully charged battery, engine fully warm, detatch the center wire from the coil and with alligator clips ground the coil wire to the engine block. Remove all spark plugs, disable your fuel injectors (pull the fuel pump fuse, engine bay) connect your compression tester, throttle wide open crank engine ~ 7 compression strokes and watch gauge.

Last edited by DaddyCat; Mar 7, 2011 at 09:07 AM.
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 09:03 AM
  #38  
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btw, from experience, it looks like the guys before you put stop leak in the radiator and never changed it since the factory...EVER. the coolant is red from the factory and the stop leak is a silver color, and causes the fluid to scrap all the crap off the walls of the radiator and hoses, hence recirculating all the corrosion, and then clogging the radiator and changing the color. i hope you reverse flushed your radiator, works wonders!
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 09:05 AM
  #39  
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I remember now. Sadly i most still be tired because I didn't realize what i was even talking bout. LOl but yes compression test. I should know how to since I am in school for auto. Haven't had much sleep lately worried bout the jeep since she is my only ride. thanks i will update later today when we get her back together.
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 09:10 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by trans_am7935
btw, from experience, it looks like the guys before you put stop leak in the radiator and never changed it since the factory...EVER. the coolant is red from the factory and the stop leak is a silver color, and causes the fluid to scrap all the crap off the walls of the radiator and hoses, hence recirculating all the corrosion, and then clogging the radiator and changing the color. i hope you reverse flushed your radiator, works wonders!
Reverse flushed. I bought a new wp/rad/ and tstat so it is all new. plan to keep bottom hose unhook and throw water into the rad and start the jeep up to flush out all the old stuff out of the motor. then run 50/50 in until it turns to that color then hook it all back up. Is that wrong or what else can i do. I dont have a hose or faucet so i cant stick a hose in it. I have never flush or even replace rad.
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 09:25 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by JesusFreak777
Reverse flushed. I bought a new wp/rad/ and tstat so it is all new. plan to keep bottom hose unhook and throw water into the rad and start the jeep up to flush out all the old stuff out of the motor. then run 50/50 in until it turns to that color then hook it all back up. Is that wrong or what else can i do. I dont have a hose or faucet so i cant stick a hose in it. I have never flush or even replace rad.

Not a good plan to run the jeep with the lower hose disconnected, the water in the new radiator will not circulate to the engine untill the thermostat opens, by then your engine will be long out of water and that's not good.
I would just disconnect the lower hose, remove the t-stat housing (and t-stat) then dump water thru the t-stat engine passage to flush. Then reconnect every thing and fill with 50-50. Not a perfect flush but with no hose might be your best option.
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 09:30 AM
  #42  
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BTW recycle your old coolant and wash any spills asap, coolant tastes sweet to kids and animals and is very poisonous.
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 09:31 AM
  #43  
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I would suggest, if u did not drain the block after flushing, add 1 gal. straight coolant 1st, then finish filling with 50/50 mixed. Let the motor idle with the rad cap off and keep the rad full. Reinstall the rad cap when coolat starts to flow out the top of the rad. Make sure overflow bottle is about half full. With the engine cold, remove rad cap and add coolant if needed and check coolant level in overflow also. New rad cap and fan clutch??????

Last edited by djb383; Mar 7, 2011 at 09:37 AM.
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 09:34 AM
  #44  
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Well maybe i will go buy a hose and just run it from the washer hook up out to the jeep. Should it be cold water or hot water? What the best AF to use. LIke Color that are jeeps like?
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 09:37 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by djb383
I would suggest, if u did not drain the block after flushing, add 1 gal. straight coolant 1st, then finish filling with 50/50 mixed. New rad cap and fan clutch??????
Fan clutch??????? I havent hooked up the rad yet. I know I need to flush it but i am very confused how to. I will get a hose if that best. I am new to flushing this i wanna do it right and not lock up or screw motor up?????
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