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Helacoil and permatex? Crazy idea?

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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 07:57 PM
  #1  
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Default Helacoil and permatex? Crazy idea?

So I'm in a little predicament. New (remanned) steering gear box, new lines, and new power steering pump. The return line will not stop leaking. I returned the line for a new one and it is still leaking even worse now. So I'm wondering if the neck it threads into has a small crack, on for some reason it just doesn't like the lines I use in it. But whatever it is, it won't stop leaking. It's bad enough I have to top the reservoir off everyday.

So what I was thinking, since I'm trying to avoid taking the gear box off, I can't get the pitman arm off no matter what I do. Using a helacoil and rethreading it so maybe it will help seal it up and use permatex all around it to help finish sealing it. I'm just tired of messing with it. Anyone else have some remedies that can help me out? The box has a lifetime warranty so I can take it back for a new one, but I have to get the damn pitman arm off first. Heat, hammer and a pitman arm puller aren't working too well.
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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 08:14 PM
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I just changed out the power steering pump and pressure lines on my 88 about a month ago. Depending on the year, mine is an '88 I didn't have to fiddle with the pittman arm. I knew I had to drain the radiator because the heater valve was damaged and I needed to replace the hoses. So I did all the pressure lines after draining and removing the bottom radiator hose. Thing I found with the pressure fitted hoses is you have to be careful when starting them or there is a good chance you will strip off a thread.
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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 08:37 PM
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The return line I replaced looked to have a slightly bent spot on the end of it where it threads down in there. I start it slow then get it hand tight. Then tighten down the rest of the way with a wrench. I don't go too tight since it's an aluminum fitting.
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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 08:50 PM
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What year is the XJ? Can you show a picture of where the major leak is to give me or other posters a better viewpoint? Need to know where the leak is exactly, the power steering pump or at the steering gear box.
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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 09:06 PM
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I would use a die (make sure it is the right size and pitch) to clean up the threads on the return line. Then apply thread sealant tape (Teflon) to the threads.
I would not use a Helicoil, as it will require drilling and tapping. The cuttings from drilling would probably trash your pump.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Hopalong
What year is the XJ? Can you show a picture of where the major leak is to give me or other posters a better viewpoint? Need to know where the leak is exactly, the power steering pump or at the steering gear box.
Hard to get a pic where it is. It's leaking from the box. Fluid is coming up from the neck where you thread the line into the box. Leaks between the neck and threads and up through the fitting between the fitting and line. Nothing is leaking from the pump.

I've used Teflon tape and that didn't help at all.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Jooman07
Hard to get a pic where it is. It's leaking from the box. Fluid is coming up from the neck where you thread the line into the box. Leaks between the neck and threads and up through the fitting between the fitting and line. Nothing is leaking from the pump.

I've used Teflon tape and that didn't help at all.

You did put the O-Ring on the fitting didn't you [?]
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
You did put the O-Ring on the fitting didn't you [?]

That was what I was coming on to ask him. Its that or there is a crack in the box or the return line threading(stripped, pushed down) is not allowing him to get a complete seal to the box.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 07:43 AM
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Default Gear box help

Man-up, face the facts you've laid-out.

Assuming you've not damaged (2) new hoses the box is clearly defective.

Don't Mickey Mouse it with backwoods emergency type measures.

Pull the box off and have them replace it under their warranty.

Most auto parts stores have loaner tools, borrow the correct pitman arm puller or take the arm in still attached to the steering gear and have the store remove it. Maybe suggest they just keep the arm and give you a new one. If you installed the arm too tight pony-up the few bucks it will cost to have a machine shop pull it off.

I just went through the whole 9 including radiator, all hoses and pressure lines, pump and gear box, water pump, T'stat etc. Putting it back on the road today after 2 weeks (I have to work on it a little at a time). I was even imagining myself driving an older Blazer. Started hateing my jeep !

Once you're done you'll be able to feel great that you stuck to it and beat it.

Best of luck with it.



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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by almido
Man-up, face the facts you've laid-out. Assuming you've not damaged (2) new hoses the box is clearly defective. Don't Mickey Mouse it with backwoods emergency type measures. Pull the box off and have them replace it under their warranty. Most auto parts stores have loaner tools, borrow the correct pitman arm puller or take the arm in still attached to the steering gear and have the store remove it. Maybe suggest they just keep the arm and give you a new one. If you installed the arm too tight pony-up the few bucks it will cost to have a machine shop pull it off. I just went through the whole 9 including radiator, all hoses and pressure lines, pump and gear box, water pump, T'stat etc. Putting it back on the road today after 2 weeks (I have to work on it a little at a time). I was even imagining myself driving an older Blazer. Started hateing my jeep ! Once you're done you'll be able to feel great that you stuck to it and beat it. Best of luck with it. __________________________________________________ _______________ 2001 Sport, 240k miles, unmolested so far !
I would suggest that you answer the o-ring question before performing a box-ectomy. Who knows? It might be just that simple.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 08:13 AM
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Yes, I did put the o ring on it. The pitman arm won't even go on all the way is part of the problem getting it off. Trust me if I could get the arm off I would've taken it back for a replacement already. And no one within in 45 miles has pitman arms in stock. Half of them keep telling me it's a tierod end. It's either there is a crack in the neck of the threads on the box or the new line isn't seating for whatever reason.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by almido
Man-up, face the facts you've laid-out.

Assuming you've not damaged (2) new hoses the box is clearly defective.

Don't Mickey Mouse it with backwoods emergency type measures.

Pull the box off and have them replace it under their warranty.

Most auto parts stores have loaner tools, borrow the correct pitman arm puller or take the arm in still attached to the steering gear and have the store remove it. Maybe suggest they just keep the arm and give you a new one. If you installed the arm too tight pony-up the few bucks it will cost to have a machine shop pull it off.

I just went through the whole 9 including radiator, all hoses and pressure lines, pump and gear box, water pump, T'stat etc. Putting it back on the road today after 2 weeks (I have to work on it a little at a time). I was even imagining myself driving an older Blazer. Started hateing my jeep !

Once you're done you'll be able to feel great that you stuck to it and beat it.

Best of luck with it.



__________________________________________________ _______________

2001 Sport, 240k miles, unmolested so far !
You should've read the facts I laid out. I know you have to assume most people on here can't tell their own head from a hole in the wall, but I ain't one of them. There is something going on with the box that messes up the return line when I thread it in. The only reason I haven't already taken it out, as stated before, is that the new pitman arm will not come off at all. It still needs to go on about another 1/2". I made sure the keyway and such was lined up right before I tried to install it. I didn't use an impact until I couldn't tighten it anymore with a wrench. The impact (350 ft/lbs worth) could only get it on to where it is now. And with the arm heated up it still will not come off. I left the stock one on the old one I pulled of because I ran into the same with it. Heating it up, whacking it with a BFM and using the impact still doesn't work.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 09:28 AM
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You're gonna drive it with a pitman arm that won't go all the way on?
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
You're gonna drive it with a pitman arm that won't go all the way on?
I'm not driving it at the moment due to that. Only place I would drive it to is the local shop to have an alignment done and maybe see if they can get the pitman arm the rest of the way on.

Man everyone here just jumps to the the conclusion you're an idiot.

The problem is I can't get it there without all the fluid leaking out.

Last edited by Jooman07; Apr 2, 2015 at 10:23 AM.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 10:11 AM
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I'm really trying not to be disrespectful but c'mon. If it was as simple as taking the bad box out and getting a different one it would have been done already. And if parts stores around here had them in stock or even knew what it was I would take it with the pitman arm on it now. Again, it's not that simple. I had to drive an hour away to get the one now same day if I didn't want to wait a week to get one.
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