I first removed everything in the way - p/s pump, rad hoses, belt, fan shroud, fan clutch, etc.

Then I removed the thermostat housing, and finally the water pump. Reverse to install.

Make sure you flush the system THOROUGHLY before doing any real work. No point installing shiny new parts if the inside of the block is rusty and gross.

Took me about 2-3 hours after a got done flushing, so figure 6 or so if you are taking your time. Click me darkness, rain, shine, snow, or hail - if I need to do a repair it's gonna get done

 

Thanks fellas, I'm about to tackle this now!

 

While I'm taking things apart I still notice this leak between. Trying to get it all done while it's apart. I replaced the cap, so now I'm not sure what the deal is.
It looks like it's coming right between this space (air filter and radiator):

 

Could be leftover spew from overheating and weak cap.

Or else a radiator side tank is cracked. From age and/or overheating pressure.

 

How can I test it?

 

Making progress... But the clutch doesn't look so bad to me (pic #3). I can't loosen these screws off the fan. What gives? I'm going to get my WD-40

 

You can't tell if the clutch is bad by just by looking at the exterior.

Remember, this is all an experiment. It may not solve your overheating problems. But I hope it does.

You can have your radiator pressure tested, while it is in the vehicle, for leaks.

 

You can't tell whether it's working by looking at it.

The fan bolts can be a problem because the fan wants to squirrel around while you're working with it. One thing you can do is get a piece of wood, set the fan on top of it and drive a couple of deck nails or screws into the wood between the blades to make yourself a sort of jig to hold the thing in place while you're cranking on it.

When I did mine, I just sat down on the ground and wrapped my legs around the fan to hold it in place. It didn't scrape me up too bad.

Also, I had a breaker bar. These are handy because they give you more leverage. Might be too late now, but consider adding one of these to your kit.

 

Well, I replaced the fan clutch. The fan seems to be moving less freely so it probably did need changing. Besides it was only $26. Now, moved on to the water pump but I can't get the plug out of the radiator and I've used pliers and got my son to help but it's starting to shred. What should I do?


Also, how can I test the radiator pressure without moving her?

 

I'm gonna go ahead and use the lower radiator hose to drain the coolant, since I'm replacing it anyways. Also, I'm just gonna replace the thermostat so I don't have to deal with that at a later date.

 

..

 

I'm on the edge of my seat, breathlessly awaiting the next post.

 

Alert:

The t-stat housing bolt broke off so I can't get it off, what should I do???

 

I removed the pulley to get the water pump out. That attachment that connects to the heater hose and wp was a beast to get off even with WD-40 and a vice grip.

Just realized, and now reviewing the thread I see investinwaffles said to flush the system before replacing the wp. I already put it back together, that and the power steering encasement. I will put everything else back together after I do the flush in the morning. Will that work?

Thanks for your support guys

I'm so sleepy 😲

 

Yeah, you can flush it after you get it all back together. I don't take everything off just to flush mine.

Water pump vanes look intact on the old pump.

You can take the radiator to be pressure checked at a radiator shop while it is out.

Incidentally, WD-40 is not a lubricant or a rust buster. It was designed to displace water from wiring and distributor caps. WD means water displacement, formula 40.

Use PB Blaster instead.