heater control valve leaking when heater is on
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From: Bloodymore Murderland I am a Preacher of the Good news of JESUS CHRIST ,a Bad Actor ,Metal Bass play
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0
I leakes around the main body where the 2 pieces go together when the Heater is on. Do I need a new one or can I fix it?
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From: East Tennessee
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 242 cui
Sounds like a replacement. Plastic part?
My factory one crumpled apart when I was working on something else about 7 years ago. Just replaced it again.
Saw a metal one at Morris or 4WD, was like $85. NAPA and everywhere else has the plastic ones for about $12 or so.
My factory one crumpled apart when I was working on something else about 7 years ago. Just replaced it again.
Saw a metal one at Morris or 4WD, was like $85. NAPA and everywhere else has the plastic ones for about $12 or so.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 235
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From: Bloodymore Murderland I am a Preacher of the Good news of JESUS CHRIST ,a Bad Actor ,Metal Bass play
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0
This one on my XJ now is a replacement from about 3 or 4 years ago .I Bought it from PepBoys.
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Joined: Aug 2019
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From: East Tennessee
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 242 cui
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
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From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Why not just eliminate it and save the heartache? Later models just use a full flow core design.
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From: Current XJ is
Year: 95
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Replace plastic ones every few years, spend bigger bucks for the all metal one or bypass it. FWIW later models came plumbed like that from the factory.
dave1123 is right. The heater control valve can be eliminated. I read about guys doing it all the time.
Even when you have a new one in place is still wants to leak there sometimes in the winter.
Guys used to refer to it as the "Winter Leaks". I figured it was from the plastic expanding and contracting with the changes in temperature.
Even when you have a new one in place is still wants to leak there sometimes in the winter.
Guys used to refer to it as the "Winter Leaks". I figured it was from the plastic expanding and contracting with the changes in temperature.
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Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 1,601
Likes: 226
From: East Tennessee
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 242 cui
Then the employees of the retail side are sadly mistaken and misinforming the customers. As are the signs all over the store and the rapidly emptying shelves.
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Joined: Aug 2019
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From: East Tennessee
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 242 cui
How does that work? Just remove the valve, connect the lines with extensions, and control everything from the controller inside? Guess that little vacuum line needs to be plugged off too?
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
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From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Yes, plug the vacuum line. I think you should replace the hoses with full lengths of solid hose. Less chance of a leak. This way the heater core becomes a thermostat bypass and allows the cabin to warm up faster.
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Bloodymore Murderland I am a Preacher of the Good news of JESUS CHRIST ,a Bad Actor ,Metal Bass play
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0
I will BIPASS it. Does anyone have a Pic of what hose goes where in the fire wall ?
Last edited by BUELLIGAN; Nov 18, 2019 at 09:40 AM.
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Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 1,601
Likes: 226
From: East Tennessee
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 242 cui
This thread has the flow diagram:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/coo...ection-245297/
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From: Groton, MA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Definitely eliminate it. I can take pics from my 95 if you want them.
The cheaper option is to use "by the foot" heater hose, but the easier option is to use the 97+ hoses. They are a direct fit and I can say without exaggeration that it literally looks like they were factory.
I used a small screw and some silicone in the vacuum line and then zip tied it off to the side on some wiring channels and it's been great for me for the last 2 years.
The cheaper option is to use "by the foot" heater hose, but the easier option is to use the 97+ hoses. They are a direct fit and I can say without exaggeration that it literally looks like they were factory.
I used a small screw and some silicone in the vacuum line and then zip tied it off to the side on some wiring channels and it's been great for me for the last 2 years.



