Headlights go out after 1-2 hrs driving
#1
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Year: '92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Headlights go out after 1-2 hrs driving
Replaced the headlamp switch assembly bout 2 yrs ago. 92 XJ is not driven every day of the year. I do live 2 miles up a dirt road fairly smooth and maintained. Lately after about an hour or so of driving the headlights go out intermittently and then out for good. Unless I turn the switch off and on real quick they will stay out.
I jiggle the switch, get em on again but they keep going out.
Could it be the switch or something else.
BTW: that switch is a B@#$h to take out and put in.
I jiggle the switch, get em on again but they keep going out.
Could it be the switch or something else.
BTW: that switch is a B@#$h to take out and put in.
#2
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Location: millbrook al
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Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Replaced the headlamp switch assembly bout 2 yrs ago. 92 XJ is not driven every day of the year. I do live 2 miles up a dirt road fairly smooth and maintained. Lately after about an hour or so of driving the headlights go out intermittently and then out for good. Unless I turn the switch off and on real quick they will stay out.
I jiggle the switch, get em on again but they keep going out.
Could it be the switch or something else.
BTW: that switch is a B@#$h to take out and put in.
I jiggle the switch, get em on again but they keep going out.
Could it be the switch or something else.
BTW: that switch is a B@#$h to take out and put in.
#3
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
if jiggling the switch gets 'em going again, I hate to say it, sounds like the switch.
I highly recommend a relay harness for just about any car... I'm kinda particular about good headlights. I went from a Porsche 944 with a relay harness and E-codes to a F*rd pickup truck... I am literally staring at the E-codes in the box waiting for me to put them in the Cherokee as I type this, wishing my relay harness were here. I kinda hope that it doesn't come tomorrow however as I really probably should be changing various fluids and filters... but it's going to be so nice to be able to see at night again!
I highly recommend a relay harness for just about any car... I'm kinda particular about good headlights. I went from a Porsche 944 with a relay harness and E-codes to a F*rd pickup truck... I am literally staring at the E-codes in the box waiting for me to put them in the Cherokee as I type this, wishing my relay harness were here. I kinda hope that it doesn't come tomorrow however as I really probably should be changing various fluids and filters... but it's going to be so nice to be able to see at night again!
#6
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
There's alot of load on your headlamp circuit causing the switch to heat up. Poor design running all the current for the headlamps through the switch, which has a breaker in it, using undersized wire.
Another switch may fix it temporarily or the plastic plug at the switch may start melting if it hasn't already. A harness upgrade is easier than replacing the switch and takes all the load off your present switch. If it were mine, Id do the harness upgrade and see if that solves the problem. More than likely it will.
http://www.eautoworks.com/Putco-H4--...s-PRD7540.aspx
Cruiser’s Headlight Upgrade Harness Instructions
Absolutely plug and play. Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side. Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness. Attach the new harness's ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it. Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side. . Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp. Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness. Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt. Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender. Connect power wires to battery.
Another switch may fix it temporarily or the plastic plug at the switch may start melting if it hasn't already. A harness upgrade is easier than replacing the switch and takes all the load off your present switch. If it were mine, Id do the harness upgrade and see if that solves the problem. More than likely it will.
http://www.eautoworks.com/Putco-H4--...s-PRD7540.aspx
Cruiser’s Headlight Upgrade Harness Instructions
Absolutely plug and play. Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side. Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness. Attach the new harness's ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it. Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side. . Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp. Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness. Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt. Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender. Connect power wires to battery.
#7
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Join Date: Dec 2011
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Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
There's alot of load on your headlamp circuit causing the switch to heat up. Poor design running all the current for the headlamps through the switch, which has a breaker in it, using undersized wire.
Another switch may fix it temporarily or the plastic plug at the switch may start melting if it hasn't already. A harness upgrade is easier than replacing the switch and takes all the load off your present switch. If it were mine, Id do the harness upgrade and see if that solves the problem. More than likely it will.
http://www.eautoworks.com/Putco-H4--...s-PRD7540.aspx
Cruiser’s Headlight Upgrade Harness Instructions
Absolutely plug and play. Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side. Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness. Attach the new harness's ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it. Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side. . Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp. Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness. Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt. Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender. Connect power wires to battery.
Another switch may fix it temporarily or the plastic plug at the switch may start melting if it hasn't already. A harness upgrade is easier than replacing the switch and takes all the load off your present switch. If it were mine, Id do the harness upgrade and see if that solves the problem. More than likely it will.
http://www.eautoworks.com/Putco-H4--...s-PRD7540.aspx
Cruiser’s Headlight Upgrade Harness Instructions
Absolutely plug and play. Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side. Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness. Attach the new harness's ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it. Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side. . Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp. Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness. Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt. Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender. Connect power wires to battery.
pretty much what im doing. except i already have all that i need to build the harness.
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#8
Hi. I'm new here. I have a Cherokee Sport '94, with...wait for it...289,000 miles. My problem seems to be very similar to most of these I've read.
About 4 years ago, my headlights went out(and interior sometimes). They've done it 2 or 3 times since. Have replaced dash switch more than twice. People have gone behind the dash and checked stuff in there. Last time, after doing research, I asked current mech. to check inside the steering column. He thought I was crazy(a guy thing), but did so(it had a lock/clamp that he said was a pain), and changed some kind of switch thing inside there---sorry to sound so uninformed, but details have left me at the moment.
History is that the lights would work for 'a while' after latest fix, and then, poof, they'd go out. I could get them back on for a few minutes by quickly pulling the switch off and on.
That was about a year ago, after the column work, and I periodically run the brights on during the day to observe if they go out, so I'll know. So far they haven't, but I will never feel secure again, thanks to two late heart-wrenching night trips on curvy mtn roads. So, I'm thinking, the wire harness change out(which I think is kinda pricey), or a light bar. I don't do a lot of 4-wheeling in it(it has such dang good traction anyway. What do y'all think?
About 4 years ago, my headlights went out(and interior sometimes). They've done it 2 or 3 times since. Have replaced dash switch more than twice. People have gone behind the dash and checked stuff in there. Last time, after doing research, I asked current mech. to check inside the steering column. He thought I was crazy(a guy thing), but did so(it had a lock/clamp that he said was a pain), and changed some kind of switch thing inside there---sorry to sound so uninformed, but details have left me at the moment.
History is that the lights would work for 'a while' after latest fix, and then, poof, they'd go out. I could get them back on for a few minutes by quickly pulling the switch off and on.
That was about a year ago, after the column work, and I periodically run the brights on during the day to observe if they go out, so I'll know. So far they haven't, but I will never feel secure again, thanks to two late heart-wrenching night trips on curvy mtn roads. So, I'm thinking, the wire harness change out(which I think is kinda pricey), or a light bar. I don't do a lot of 4-wheeling in it(it has such dang good traction anyway. What do y'all think?
#11
CF Veteran
The Putco harness is $40 & a guy on here sales some beefy looking ones for $20. If you think that's pricey you need to sale the Jeep immediately. With 289k on it, it bound to start having issues.
#12
Big D, no, that's definitely cheap enough, but one mechanic told me that changing it out was a big deal and could mess up wiring in other places. I'm told the easy install light bars work great...course I'm thinking of that instant when they go out unexpectedly and I have to react and pull the alt. switch inside...those seconds ARE awful, so maybe I'll check the harness first. Thanks.
#13
I just talked to my jeep guy and he is still recommending(for ease of installation I think) a light bar with 2 mini lights, and said b/c their led wouldn't affect rest of electrical system. I also don't want to be one of those vehicles on the road at night who blind you with their lights!
#14
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I just talked to my jeep guy and he is still recommending(for ease of installation I think) a light bar with 2 mini lights, and said b/c their led wouldn't affect rest of electrical system. I also don't want to be one of those vehicles on the road at night who blind you with their lights!
#15