Rayzor442

Here's a mystery for you: While driving along one night, my son pulled the headlight switch plunger completely out of the switch assembly. No big deal; right? Replacement switches for a 1996 Cherokee are relatively cheap and available and the local parts store. What should've been an easy swap out has turned out to be a head scratcher.

1. With the new switch in place, when you pull the plunger to the 1st position, we get no running lights. The running lights work right BEFORE the switch clicks into position but as soon as it clicks into position the lights go out. Interestingly enough, the door buzzer also works right BEFORE the switch clicks into the 1st position but stops as soon as the plunger clicks into the first position.

2. When you pull the plunger to the 2nd position, we get headlights but still no running lights and no tail lights. Again, the tail lights and running lights come on right BEFORE the switch clicks into the 2nd position. (This at least tells us that the bulbs are working.)

We've tried 4 switches from various Advance Autos with the same results every time. We've disconnected the battery before swapping out the switches. You can get everything to work just before the switch clicks into the 2nd position but only if the switch stays in the "sweet spot" right before it clicks but there's no way it's going to pass inspection like this. The wiring harness / connector plugs right into the new switch and there's only one way it can be connected so we don't see how we could be putting it in wrong.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

freegdr

You sure rods inserted all the way in switches ?

Jeepin'Hubb's

Did you notice any melting of the harness?

ccastellanos

I’m having the same exact problem with the running lights coming on in “the sweet spot” only and turn off as soon as I hit the first detent on the switch. Second detent gives me working headlights but no tail lights, running lights, or dash lights. I just can’t figure it out???

EZEARL

What kind of vehicle?