Well then... I guess I will cut them
(are you sure, are you sure, you sure, you sure, are you sure? your sure?, haua hua hua. So your saying to cut them and clamp them?)

Fine...
Ill use the clamps!


Well that just leaves one thing...
All I have left is to put it together this weekend...

Oh and I got a special delivery today after school...





That reminds me. I was considering getting some work done on mine and was quoted from various machine shops about 75-250 for labor depending on what I had done. I would have supplied the parts myself though, but those will also add to the cost. Depends really on what you have them do valve job is easy. 2.99/exhaust vale seal, 4.99 for each intake seal, 7.99/valve spring, 7.99/intake valve stud, about 12.99/exhaust valve stud. 2.99/push rod. For parts plus labor estimated above. Valves and springs on my Jeep were in spec and given the recent compression test I decided to save the valve seals for later. Mine were still good. You can get to the valve springs in the i6 with out removing the head, providing you use some compressed air on to hold the valves closed then remove the valve spring and keeper using a top compression tool. Looks like a little clamp that fits over the valve and tightens it down. The other valve compressor tool is like a giant c-clamp looking tool it holds the valves in the head and compresses the springs. The C-clamp shape valve compression tool requires that you remove the head to do that. If you want to replace valves that's also a requirement. Rocker arm and pivot kit is 59.99. I replace as little as possible. If its in spec, don't waste your money on it, especially if your replacing OE with OE. No bent push rods, no worn rocker arms and engine held compression well.

Prices and quality of work are pretty variable. My machine shop is not cheep, but they rebuild forklift engines at work and do a good job I would trust them.

 

Well I have had a hell of a week. Wednesday I had muscle spasms and lower back pain. Could hardly walk around. Strained my lower back. Was all drugged up for several days. Didn't get a chance to work on my Jeep until today.

Finished up several things. Got the AC compressor re-mounted, the intake and exhaust manifold re-attached. Found some tubing for the hoses and started to make a new assembly for them. Got the power steering attached back up, and put some fresh o-rings on the fuel injectors. Got my fuel line re-installed and replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses. Put the thermostat housing back together and re-connected most of the electrical.



Oh I lost a stud for the very last exhaust connection completely towards the fire wall. Was rusty and just snapped right on out while tightening it down. I am not sure if I want to tear into everything again to get to it so it may have to be "good enough". Its tight up against the seal there with the other lower and upper intake manifold bolt securing it so I may just pretend that it didn't happen. We will see....



I ordered a new radiator shroud and a throttle body gasket, and a new starter motor. The brushing were worn in mine and there were enough parts required that id rather just replace it and get it over with rather then try to rebuild it piece by piece. Oh I also noticed that my fan clutch was rather weak, and so I went ahead and ordered a new one, since I am doing the shroud up anyway.

Almost have it running again....

 

Alright I give up...

Who knows a good mechanic that will work on my Jeep in Denver/Aurora CO?

 

They are expensive as all hell but all american 4x4 is pretty good off of Santa Fe and C470 or close to there, I am not sure of their exact address. They are fair though and they do very good work. Also expensive but work is really good is high country 4x4 in englewood. They both know jeeps inside and out especially renix like yours and mine! Make sure you save some money before you go there lol...especially for your stuff!

 

Thanks,

I was going to call them today and arrange to tow the Jeep in. My issue was that I didn't take apart the vacuum system my friend Ryan did, and he didn't label anything. I tried connecting it and probably figured about 80% of it out from pictures and inferring which hoses were in proximity that worked. (Meaning that I still had little plastic tubes sticking out everywhere haha) Well that was enough to throw off the MAP sensor on the thing so it wouldn't run I was leaking coolant here and there. Well I met him and his roommate to go to a concert Thursday where he said he could help out this weekend on it. Well I bought a new gasket for the inlet and I also got a new clamp for the lower radiator hose and fixed those leaks, and Ryan came back from the Springs to help with the vacuum system and had it connected back up. I had two helpers to finish it up and troubleshoot the little stuff.

So a small coolant leak and some cursing looking for the last remaining vacuum line leak leak on the intake assembly and we have a working Jeep. Few! That was a lot of work! Why do I keep taking engines apart? This is my second major engine project... Think I would learn.


My last project was an engine swap on a 2001 Ranger V6, we swapped the valve stuff and intake stuff on it but this was my first head gasket. I did an engine rebuild on a small parallel twin though but that wasn't quiet the same




Oh the stud is still snapped off but the exhaust manifold isn't leaking or making a racket. I was hoping that there would be enough tension holding it on there that it wouldn't be a huge issue for a while. Another project day we will try to get the broken stud out and install a new one.

The major pain in the butt is over with finally. Working non leaky engine compartment. I will enjoy not having coolant and oil ooze from the edge of the engine block

Thanks again for helping me and answering my dumb noob questions guys!

I usually work on Motorcycles not cars, so...

 

Good job!
The manifold will be OK for a while, but eventually you'll get a leak there. I got sick of changing them on my Ford 460, danged things keep snapping. I knew another had broken when I heard the tick tick tick tick tick... banks headers, problem fixed. In your case, just replace the broken stud.

I'm sorry.
I just changed the front timing cover gasket, water pump, valve cover gaskets and a rusty freeze plug on the 4.0 version. What a headache, you can't get at anything without being a plumber. Or plumbing-remover. With x-ray vision and tiny little hands. 4 hours to do valve cover gaskets. Sheesh.

 

More issues...

Ok so I think I have a bad IAC.

When I'm idling especially if the engine is warm I have a very high rev.

It seems kind of sporadic though, sometimes its running smoothly, and sometimes its idling high.

I cleaned my IAC and throttle body again today, and it lowered the revs to something more reasonable. When shifting into neutral the engine revs. Checking the Throttle Position Sensor on the right said that it was still in spec from my last adjustment at exactly the ratio and setting I left it in so I don't think that that sensor is bad.





I looked, it appears that there is no way to check the IAC itself because its an actuating component is this true?

If so how do I know that there isn't some other issue. Seems like if its warm then the problem gets worse. I though that I had my high idle issues licked when I fixed the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor.

What do you guys think, how can I test the IAC to be sure? I'd hate to just start throwing money at sensors to fix it, especially if it is a vacuum leak or something. I heard that a vacuum leak could also cause this issue, I looked and listened and poked around, and I didn't see any leaks that would cause this. Also its been working great for the past few weeks, indicating that my recent gasket swap and other work went well.

Thanks

 

I'm pretty sure there is a renix vac diagram in my sig along with cruisers stuff.

I confess, my rear most bolt there on the exhaust manifold didn't feel right last time I tightened it. Stripping I think. Jeep works fine, but that bothers me. Exhaust "puffs". It might be letting some are IN, messing with my 02 sensor.
Vacuum leaks suck. I go around with short little shots of starting fluid, if you hit one the sound of the engine will change. Small little shots! You don't want that stuff to accumulate. It's a fire hazard, but It evaporates right away. Also with a tube, or a section of hose you can listen for it. Don't forget the lower O rings on the injectors need to seal as well. (uppers would leak fuel).
The manifold bolts have a habit of loosening, especially that rear one. On anything like that you never want to tighten only one. It can warp/bend, even crack things. If I found that any that where easy to reach where loose, I'd pull the air cleaner and tighten them all, starting in the middle and working out towards the ends. I go over about three times. It's a bear of a spot to get a torque wrench on them all. Just don't ape on it. If its firm and not turning, no point in going on to break it, a REAL *****. The rearmost bolt underneath takes a little doing, but it can be done with the right extension. For that very back one by the firewall I use way long extensions (18"), with a swivel at the socket. Anyway, that's a good thing to check on any old Jeep.

 

check your battery ground .. my '90 had a toasted neg (-) cable / oil soaked thru-out from oil filter adapter leak .. it was dripping into plastic wire harness forever) seriously, was from head to toe within cables insulation

that cable felt like a wet noodle / nasty. . installed some quality 4 awg scrap cable from work w/ a new lug for motor block .. 3 year old gremlin finally put to rest !!!!!

i thought it was fuel / bad iac / bad intake air ... was the ground, battery to block , behind dipstick

seeing your leaks .. almost same as mine .. the starter was so covered in grime so I left it, was like protective shell, it never failed though

 

Hi guys,

I re-cleaned my grounds to the block, the negative battery terminal cable was new, I had replaced that a while ago so the cable and terminal were easy to clean up. My dimming lights were less noticeable after cleaning up the terminals, but I still get a dim on the radio dial and lights when the turn signals are going but only at idle. During acceleration they stop dimming. Might load test the battery. I had forgotten to clean up the Negative battery to engine block grounds after the gasket swap so they were pretty greasy. I ran some cleaner and a rag to get all of the grease off of the terminals and then wire brushed them. Almost lost the nut to the stud... But found it on the ground. Had to get some new terminal connectors tonight, and also noticed that one of the grounds has gotten quite hot and melted the wire. Looks the the previous owner was messing with the electrical system some. I will have to trace that out and take a look at what he did on that particular ground loop to ensure that there isn't a short on it. I patched the cable with some of the same gauge and a high current rating, it was a little thicker, and I ensured that it wasn't getting host after running the Jeep for a little bit. It was warm when I removed the terminal and now the wire is cold. Maybe it frayed and was never replaced. The melted part was tucked inside of the plastic near the connector.

Anyhow the idle was back under control for my quick test so it's better than it was. I did wire brush the other chassis to block ground when I installed the new gaskets on it. I still get some dimming on the lights when the turn signals are on, but not like it was, so at least that's improved a bit. Had to re-charge my work light and get some connectors at WalMart so I took my bike over and got them. Put it all back together. So its got a cleaned throttle body and some newly cleaned grounds.

I guess I will see how it runs tomorrow. Thanks for the tips about the grounds.

Earlier today when cleaning the throttle body I also checked for vacuum leaks. The new connector I installed that connects the air box to the valve cover (I think its a breather tube) was loose, that was the only vacuum leak that I could find. I added a clamp to tighten it back up to the tube. Didn't notice any other leaks, and I sprayed the vac lines down and didn't notice anything. I also tried 4wd on it, and the Part Time light came on. I had just replaced the little vacuum line to the front axle, and also repaired the tube to the vacuum bowl.

Hopefully that fixed it.

Ran great for a couple of weeks

 

Hey good call on the grounds, seems like that did the trick



You guys rescued me again!

I owe you a drink!

A very happy college student