Drag 1 mile for each point compression increase you need. If you go too far, just back up.

 

She backs up every time I get behind the car..I can't figure it out.

I saw that..by a couple Harley mechanic brothers. I believe the idea waz one head under each foot..(no "mono ski")...From guess where, Wyoming!

 

Bigger valves would make that puppy sing. I'd check the valve springs to make sure they're all still in good shape. Timing chain prolly getting stretched and tired. If I went that far, I'd pop in a more aggressive cam and springs to match. depends on how much time and $ ya got .

 

Thanks guys!

Broke A## student here...

I will probably leave the stock cams in, and see what kind of shape the valves are in. Compression test indicated that there was good compression. They did do some valve work before on the car, valve cover was removed but not the head. There is an "after market" bolt on the valve cover. Not sure what they did to the valve cover area, because the grommets and cover are original. I am going to replace the "after market bolt" (its an hardware store bolt with a nut on the top for extra spacing.) This is completely ghetto rigged on it, and I am searching for a better fitting bolt on it. Just have not been to the auto parts store to search for one yet. I am sure that after tearing everything apart there is another parts store trip in sight for me. Usually 2 more, one during the disassembly and one during the put it together phase... At least for me.

Going to start tearing into it this weekend and see what awaits....

Starter was coated in oil when I looked at it more thoroughly so that is coming out for a cleaning and inspection. Was in a hurry last time I glanced it over. Found some more hoses to replace and seals that I will need. Most of those hoses are original and torn up/leaking. Its a wonder that it ran as well as it did. One mystery vacuum bowl located in the bumper had been smashed up and it has a cut line in it, I can't seem to find it anywhere.. Its a round vacuum bowl of some sort, moving/storing air in it. No fluids. I'm not quite sure that it belongs in the front bumper area... It was thrown in there not bolted to anything. That's my only mystery.

Also got the door seals for my doors since my originals are all torn up, and I will also be getting my headliner and visors back this week to put in. Now I just have to finish all of my HW so I can put in the time to get it all fixed up.

Next would be some body shop work that I need done. Welding a door hinge and replacing that broken door stud on the back of the lift gate. Might throw some paint on it this summer too. I am the worlds worst metal worker, so that will probably get contracted out to someone with more skills then a gorilla with a hammer trying to accomplish those things. I would weld a hole into the place that used to hold the door hinge on, and then continue to chisel away at the stud on the lift gate until a gaping hole remand there as well where, and probably break a window doing so. Just because...

Discovered that I have an after market lift kit. I am guessing a 2.5" lift with some serious sag Maybe even a 3"-er. I though it was stock, but its a little bit higher then stock and there are some old aftermarket coils and shocks on it. I know useless with out pics. I will post some after my weekend adventure tearing up my Jeep. Still waiting on a couple of parts that I will absolutely need this weekend... My parents are like, when can we see your new Jeep.

WHEN ITS READY!!!!.... and can make it to your mountain house on its own free will...

 

Mystery Vac bowl? What is it? Where can I replace that little vac line?


My crusty looking starter motor... Didn't look at it closely because I swore it looked newer then it does.


Shocks.. A lift or stock? They need some help....


No kids this is not the way to fit a bolt on the valve cover...


My leaky head gasket. Cleaned it up and drove it for two weeks monitoring it. Looked like this after 2 weeks, but it did show that it wasn't all leaking from that valve cover bolt...


Some vac lines getting replaced...

 

That ball s a vacuum reservoir. It stores some vacuum for the heater vents and cruse for when you have your foot in it. Has one large line that goes clear back, across the firewall, then up to the intake manifold. Then it had a smaller line that goes back, and through to the heater stuff.

The oil filter adapter is a common source for oil leaking (and blowing all over).

The pin for the hatch should be on with two bolts. I got a replacement at the JY...So there's a start!

 

F8%$*($#(*$7 me...

This Jeep has a 0 part availability on anything.

I have the engine half way dissassembled and can not find

1. Cyl Head Bolts (Will the 91 bolt work on my 90?)
Maybe I will just reuse them since they are not anywhere in stock. I have asked literally every auto parts store around here.

2. Vacuum Res (GM round res will work?) Can't seem to find any Napa has the GM only that he found. One looks similar a taller round one will that work or no?

3. Vac lines (thin plastic stuff long enough to repair the lines that are cracked WHERE do you replace this crap?)

4. What fittings for the hoses are on the end of the 'T' bracket? They are like compression hose fittings, who what why and how do you get them apart/back together?

Where do I get this stuff?

Aurora CO parts stores SUCK!

I have been to Napa, Advanced, CarQuest, and Autozone around here and asked the dealer. No parts...

WTF?

My 83 GS is easier to find parts for!

Suck it Jeep. Pull and pay around here had all this stuff stripped already off the Jeeps they had.

 

Clean the bolts and re use them. I prefer to replace them, but if they aren't available- no harm done. I believe the Jeep bolts are good for at least one re-use.

Vacuum reservoirs aren't critical, one that's similar and mounts up should be fine.

The plastic vacuum tube- newer GM and Chryslers are full of the stuff. Scrapyard.
(NAPA has it in bulk too)

Not sure what "T" bracket you are referring to?

 

LOL Well its was one of those days where I got absolutely no where working on the Jeep today. Ran all over, which I absolutely hate, and found nothing...

Oh and my cell phone was acting cranky after my firmware update, decided to reboot every 15 minutes. Had a little back up flip phone and crushed the screen in my pocket, so I rings, works but you can't see whats going on Annoying when your screening calls.

One of those special days.

A little bit of looking online and here is what I came up with:

Found the vacuum lines in rolls of 3ft. Just for the line... So maybe I can just grab some of that stuff and re-use the end connectors. I'd like my vents to work but that's just minor I guess no biggie if they are stuck on defrost. Can't imagine it would be tough to stuff that in the rubber connectors on the ends of some of that.

I read that I can re-use the bolts once. I don't know how I glossed over that one in the book. Some of those bolts have some rust on them. Mainly the studs on the side closest to the intake manifold. Engine was in good shape. Didn't notice anything too horrible. Maybe I am just oblivious but I was satisfied with what I saw. The head gasket was surprisingly not all torn up. It didn't look like there was a problem but there was a tiny crack around where it had been leaking. It had the I leak because I am very old look to it. I noticed that the new gasket has a lot more reinforcement around that area, the edge around the non intake side. The new gasket was a lot heavier. Hope that keeps the block from leaking like a stuffed pig.

That cylinder head was a heavy PITA to put back on there. I really missed some help on that one I kind of hoisted it into the engine bay set it on top of some stuff to hold it there, and then stood on the fender and rear of the engine bay and lifted it in myself "crane style"... Not recommended.

Sorry I was looking for a pic. See where the hose comes into the plastic connector and it has a metal "crimp on" style bracket securing it to the hose? Well I have the hose, and it is long enough to get it to that bracket, but I have never see these style clamps, crimps? How do you take these off, and crimp new ones on? I have not seen the hoses come with these so I am assuming that your suppose to re-use them? Cut them, re use them, give up and search for a factory to place them on there? I don't suppose I could cut them off and then use the regular screw down style clamps on it to secure it? Im leaning on that's totally incorrect. A tool for these?


What do you do with these? My friends are all stumped on this one as well. The AC ones I can find and those have the crimps on there those are not the ones I am looking for the cooling line ones.

I meant to bring my camera home from dissassembly and post some pics, I am afraid that I forgot to grab it after bringing in my tools.

Oh and the valve cover gasket that I ordered is completely the wrong one. So trial number 2 to find that. That other was an online order before I had removed the valve cover so.

Couldn't get my compression spring tool to work on those springs. Keeps clamping down the spring so that you can move the valve but it does not reweave the pressure of the spring from the top to remove the keeper. There are certain engine components that I don't get along with, timing chains and valves. Timing chains because I can never quite seem to get them correct. Your one link off. I know tell me about it.

 

Still not sure which crimp you mean, lol. The bluish colored one at the bottom side of the plastic valve with the arrow? Those have tabs that can be squeezed with a pliers and re-used.

 

Cut them off and use a hose clamp. works just as good!

Also what can someone expect to pay for a machine shop to inspect/resurface a head and do a valve job on it?

 

Last time went there, pretty long ago, just the ole' yellow pages, call around in person. Talking one on one can get more understood fast. Then meet someone in person. It's up from "$10 a hole!" $150-$250? Watch for the "tranny shop treatment" ....you are not planning a moon landing? Just have them grind the valves, mill the head if it's out of spec. (deleted incorrect spec IIRC), and install the new seals. Just my .02!

I commented to my buddy today on a 300 mile trip, as I turned over to 268K, that I might be setting some sort of record for miles on an original head. My cold idle vacuum is only 14. Got well over 20 MPG!. I mention that because I'm not familiar with the finer points of what you get with extremely clearanced valve guides.

 

I have the rubber hose pieces that fit in these areas, they are already cut to length but they don't have these fittings (no hard pieces on them). So I was just wondering how to deal with that. Those look like they were machine press fit on, and I was wondering what those types of fittings were called and if there was a tool to remove and compress those. Usually when I have ordered hoses with these types of fittings they came as one part and the hose clamps that you screw down or cinch clamped on were the only ones that you had to deal with. But that was on a much smaller sized engine.

So you guys would just cut these and then use a regular hose clamp?



My hoses are actually leaky around these fittings any how, and the hoses were pretty rotted. One burst near the thermostat while removing it from the thermostat fitting, so they do need to be replaced, a few are, but only when they failed from the looks of things in here.

I can understand why these compression fitting were used in an effort to try to reduce the leaking points in the system for fittings with several hoses going to it, but I have never had to deal with removing and re-fitting them. So sorry for the confusion. I couldn't seem to pry them apart or anything with out cutting them off. Seeing how they seem to be another mystery part for the parts store I didn't want to destroy them completely before finding out exactly how to deal with them.


Pics of the tear down.

No to shabby for 182,xxx miles on it!


Original wasn't bad, some cracks and tears in it that were pretty minor but allowing coolant to seep through where it should not have been. A little build up and corrosion on it. I don't think that tightening it down would have helped my leak problem. Hopefully fixing that and the oil filter seal will stop the leaking onto my starter motor...


Here is where it was leaking






Yea new gasket... that was a lot of work...


Cleaned out some gunk inside the cylinder, but the cylinder wall looked pretty good since the last engine I saw had large gouges on the cylinder wall. (Threw a rod and seized) (Pic was from pre-cleaning after removing the paper towel)

 

Yes, cut them off like i said lol, the hose clamps work better anyways, and if you ever have to replace that heater valve, u need to cut them off anyways and use hose clamps.