Have fuel, have spark, no fire!
Its not fuel pressure. The pressure is fine, also you can tell by the spike when the engine dies that it is fuel related if it is. The is electric. I just pulled a plug and was getting spark only on the first turn but not the second and by turn i mean each turn of the crank. I used the third cylender and saw a good blue spark when I saw spark but it didn't spark after the first rev. So what would cause that? I am going to try and test the ignition module but don't exactly know how.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,088
Likes: 2
From: South Side Chicago
Year: 1992, 2- 1998 (All 3, 4 Doors)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L in all
Well I geuss I can try that. I have a tester if some one can tell me what reading I should get. I get alot of people on these forums giving great parts to check and then its is a "just search the forum" for the thread. Have any of you used the search? It ommits half of the words you are trying to find. Don't believe me typ in CPS its all over the site but the search can't find it. I refuse to take a 91 into a mechanic there really should be simple ways of using a ohmmeter to check resistance and signals from each electrical part. Is there a thread that shows what these readings should be. When I search for ignition controll module I get one thread that shows up about a lift and should I go add a leaf or full pack. Really you needed to ask? Maybe get a honda (sorry last comment out of frustration). Its snowing out and I need both jeeps so if you can help I would be greatful.
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
"igniton mudule" seriously try it. I want an even worse company than chrysler (ofcourse ommitting the I6 engine) via a ford for my jeep yeah!!!
NO NO NO. I want to find out how to replace the part or test the part on my jeep a real jeep. And I know that some one has done a writeup on here because others have told me about it. But the search can't find its own @$$ how will it find a crazy part write up on something so uncommon as a ignition module. Do you hear my sarcasm. It is frustrating that I can find more on f'ed over rebuilt dodge than i can on a jeep on a jeep web site. My goal here is to help others if I can and to get my jeep running, not to worry about a dumb move like putting ford wiring in. Really fords use twice the amount of wire than do any other manufactueres aside from jag who run every from where it is to the trunk and back to its start ( I think its so wind can't blow you away). So please if you have an idea let me know!
Thanks guys
NO NO NO. I want to find out how to replace the part or test the part on my jeep a real jeep. And I know that some one has done a writeup on here because others have told me about it. But the search can't find its own @$$ how will it find a crazy part write up on something so uncommon as a ignition module. Do you hear my sarcasm. It is frustrating that I can find more on f'ed over rebuilt dodge than i can on a jeep on a jeep web site. My goal here is to help others if I can and to get my jeep running, not to worry about a dumb move like putting ford wiring in. Really fords use twice the amount of wire than do any other manufactueres aside from jag who run every from where it is to the trunk and back to its start ( I think its so wind can't blow you away). So please if you have an idea let me know!
Thanks guys
So now I have tested everything twice and have found that I am not getting power to the coil. I am thinking ecm. This would explain no codes coming at all when it won't start. If you look back at my post here I have replaced most of the ignition and had it going, then it would run for 2-3 seconds and then shut off (no not because of fuel pressure loss) like I turned the key off usually not starting again unless I wait ten minutes and then it will die again.
Now it won't start at all. I have to get this fixed because I am going back to sea and well I can't bring the jeep on a 50ft fishing vessel. If any of you have any ideas I will "love you long time". Remember its a 91.
Now it won't start at all. I have to get this fixed because I am going back to sea and well I can't bring the jeep on a 50ft fishing vessel. If any of you have any ideas I will "love you long time". Remember its a 91.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
DKo4GRND, You stated that you are getting spark. I think I even read that you said you would get spark for one turn of the crank then it would go away. You have one more sensor that nobody else mentioned. It is called the Cam Position Sensor. This is what controls your ignition timing in your XJ. If this sensor is gooned up or inop it will have fuel and spark all day long but, still will not run. The Can Position Sensor in inside your Distributor under the plate that the rotor sits on. It is a small elctromagnetic pick-up looking device. This is the only other thing I can think of, that you haven't already tried twice, that could cause your problem.
That is if you actually put a pressure gauge on your fuel rail test port and verified you have good fuel pressure there with a gauge. 30 PSI at the fuel rail. ANYTHING less and the fuel pump is bad. This is the only way you can properly check fuel pressure. My son's 87 would shoot fuel clear across the garage with the fuel line disconnected from the fuel rail and we turned the key on but, the fuel pump was still bad. With a gauge it was making 17 PSI. We swapped the fuel pump and presto good Jeep.
That is if you actually put a pressure gauge on your fuel rail test port and verified you have good fuel pressure there with a gauge. 30 PSI at the fuel rail. ANYTHING less and the fuel pump is bad. This is the only way you can properly check fuel pressure. My son's 87 would shoot fuel clear across the garage with the fuel line disconnected from the fuel rail and we turned the key on but, the fuel pump was still bad. With a gauge it was making 17 PSI. We swapped the fuel pump and presto good Jeep.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
You also mentionmed that when cranking your engine at one time that you had air pressure blowing out of the intake. This would indicate an "out of time" condition to me as well.
Hey buck thanks. Oak Harbor is nice I fish off the Pac NW coast.
I had spark at one point but lost it. had another and lost it had it running and lost that too. Oh and runs great when it will not timing I think too much starting fluid by my buddie never happened befor and hasn't since.
So I put in a new ecm and it ran. Then it died. sounded like the fuel filter got clogged so I put in a new one thought i had replaced it but hadn't. Started once ran sh!ty for 2-3 seconds and died now wil just crank. I have looked for a short moved the wires the furthes away from anything as i can. I am stumped, have no more ideas will sit and think for a while.
I had spark at one point but lost it. had another and lost it had it running and lost that too. Oh and runs great when it will not timing I think too much starting fluid by my buddie never happened befor and hasn't since.
So I put in a new ecm and it ran. Then it died. sounded like the fuel filter got clogged so I put in a new one thought i had replaced it but hadn't. Started once ran sh!ty for 2-3 seconds and died now wil just crank. I have looked for a short moved the wires the furthes away from anything as i can. I am stumped, have no more ideas will sit and think for a while.
Last edited by DK04GRND; Feb 9, 2009 at 07:39 PM.
I had the same problem ,it turned out the computer on the driver side fender right up front next to the air box.take it out and bring it inside, heat it up to room temp. Put it back in really quick and see if it will fire. If it does you need a new one, i got one at the junk yard for $30 out of a 95 which is the last yearyou can get one out of. My old one still works in warm weather just not in the winter. Also try the ballast reister on the same fender about a foot away from the firewall. It will have two wires going into it, one on each side, take the wires off and connect them together. If it fires up a new one is $8.99 at the zone. I had both of these problems within a month of each other.good lulck!
yeah it starts and dies. Until I replaced the computer it would die after 2-3 seconds, just shut off like I turned it off with the key. I put in the New ecm it ran great I was letting it warm up and wasn't paying attention to it just putting the dash back on to drive it and it shut off like i turned off the key so I started it and it took me putting my foot on the throttle to go. I put it in gear and it died. Started it again and I drove it away from my house and when I pulled away and put down power it hesitated then died. When I tried to restart I would have to give throttle to it for it to go then it was like it ran out of fuel. I replaced the fuel filter and it just cranks and doesn't want to fire at all. I can hear what sounds like arch while its cranking or a spark sound you know click click click so I looked for a wire that may be shorting on the a/c housing and other spots moved the wires but no help. So now its snowing here in Portland, OR and I have this awesome 4wd for sale that won't run sweeeeeet.
Thanks for all the help guys.
Thanks for all the help guys.
Camo thanks but I replaced the Crank Pos Sensor after it wouldn't run when I started it the first time I have replaced every thing except the dist which I am assuming holds the Cam sensor and "the resister about a foot from from the firewall on the driver side"
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
Im sorry i messed up if you getting fuel and spark it is not the computer ,my bad.it sounds like the ballast resister on the drivers side fender about a foot from the fire wall.check it by pulling both wires and connect them together, if it fires and stays running then that should be it .good luck
Gabe, thanks dude for the help. I haven't tested the resistor (it snowed here in portland yesterday) so i will today and let you know. I do know that the ecm was part of the problem because the new one in and it fired right up first try like it was started 5 min before not like it hadn't run in 2.5 months. Also will try a few other things that may have a problem. I had to replace the valve cov gask because it was pouring oil out at the firewall on the driver side. So there are a few oil fouled parts I hadn't fixed yet, you should've seen the cps it was so coated ha ha ha ha ha. Okay I go wrench now.
Thanks guys
Thanks guys


