nice, could almost make it into a thread in the how-to section. Also, may wanna smear some anti sieze on those bolts that got thru the control arms. This will help prevent it from happening again if you ever had to change the arms to aftermarket arms if you get a lift.

 

SO how they holding up three years later? LOL, good job on that. I hope I don't run into that problem for mine, but then again I'm putting long arms on so if they're seized like yours was, I'll just cut the brackets off the frame anyway

 

I just encountered this problem the other night and wasn't sure how to proceed. Thanks for this detailed thread and all the pics. I'm doing the ES poly bushes too so the thrust bushing layout is super helpful! Didn't realize this was such a common occurrence though. Looks like i'll need new bolts, 10 pack of sawzall blades, and a case of beer. Hopefully the angle grinder won't be necessary because I don't have one to use.

 

Hi all,
ah, old thread

so, four year later everything is holding fine.

..yeah, I'd guess that's a minimum requirement
Be sure to remove as much rubber of the old bushing as you can before cutting, or it will jam the blade. Be careful, as it's very easy to get a nasty kickback in that situation, especially after half of beer is gone good luck

 

I might use the dremel to knock a lot of that rubber out of there. I don't have one of those drywall saws like you used.

 

I just replaced my axles with 4:10s and only had the left lower LCA bolt stuck. The others came out with a bit of persuasion. I should replace that stuck bolt tho.

Wire wheeled all the bolts and covered the whole shebang in copper anti-sieze. Should make future repairs MUUCH easier.

 

http://www.metabo.us/Product-catalog...8758fec.0.html, This is one of my go to tools for everything that needs cutting. They are a little pricey but so much easier to work with than a 4" angle grinder.

 

So, after smashing my hand with the sawzall a few times I decided to try to use an angle grinder with a six inch disc instead. Using the angle grinder made everything go a ton faster. I was through my bolt in a couple of minutes.

Even though many people suggest ACE hardware, McMaster-Carr, or Fastenal for new bolts and nuts I was unable to find anything M14x2.0x110mm. Nobody carried that thread pitch in that long of a length, so I ordered bolts and nuts from the dealership.

When putting the arm back in I have an issue with the axle bolt. The axle is lined up correctly but the front differential housing is in my way keeping me from putting the bolt straight in. If the bolt were a bit shorter i don't think i would have this issue. My axle is supported on jackstands currently. I am thinking I need to put the tire back on and let the tire support the axle. Hopefully this will allow the differential housing to roll up and out of my way.

I removed the arm from the jeep with it up on jackstands like this. Had a heck of a time getting the axle bolt all the way out. Sort of forgot of that trouble until last night when I was trying to force the bolt to go back in there.

Does anyone have any other tips I can try if putting the tire on doesn't work?

 

I figured out my issue. The new bolts I ordered were for the rear leafs and too long for the driver's side axle. I tried the old one and it fit just fine. Not sure why I didn't check them earlier. Surprisingly the 10mm of difference between them actually made a difference.

I also broke one of those camber adjuster bracket bolts. If you want to order new bolts they are M8x1.25 35mm carriage bolts. Fastenal has them, sku 0162100 for the bolt and sku 11508216 for the nut.

I have both sides done now. Just waiting to start the upper arms.

 

10mm is just shy of a half an inch, you wouldn't think it would cause that much issue.

 

Great Post!! I am facing this exact problem ATM.
I am gonna go at it with a grinder and metal cut off wheel.
The after picture really shows what we are facing if these bolts seize up.
Thought about the sawsall. and have blades on standby, Thx!

 

Update , I went with the sawsall , and the Dewalt blades I used went through it like butter.
The C-clamp helped compress the side not being cut , and i slipped the blade past the rubber, some burning but not bad.
see pictures.