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Has anyone successfully cut lower control arm bots? Which Tool?

Old 09-22-2010, 12:37 PM
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Default Has anyone successfully cut lower control arm bots? Which Tool?

Hi guys.
OK, I had a real bad time .... grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
Was removing lower control arms (so I planned ) ...
One bolt (pass. side @ "frame" bracket) is simply completely "welded" in ... looks like combination of rust inside the sleeve and in the hole at the bolts' hat side, maybe it is also somewhat jammed there.
I gave up trying to remove it. I actually removed the nut, was a bit hard, but not too bad. The axle bracket bolt was removed too, was no problem there.
But the frame bracket bolt would not move a bit. I thinks I've tried everything. It would not turn. Tone of PB wasted over the day. I was hitting it with hammer as hard as I can , I am afraid to actually break the bracket off the frame if I keep doing it. Long breaker bar with pipe - no move.

So now I am thinking going a real radical way - cutting off the damn bolt.
The question is, what's the best tool to use here ( a sawzall? which one?, which blade? ) and how actually to cut that bolt (where). If anybody have such experience, would you please share.
I don't have a sawzall, but willing to go buy one, as I'll need it for ather "situations" ... Which would you recommend for metal works in a tight sapces? Are there any good ones and small in size, I'd rather NOT have a cordless.

Also I've ordered a pair of new lower arms from quadratec , will be here maybe tomorrow. So I don't need to care about the old arm if I need to destroy it in the process

**************
the other question on a side.
The new arms will come with rubber bushings. I have a set of Energy Suspension poly bushings , they come with sleeves and thrust washers.
Do you think it would be a waste of time removing rubber from new arms and installing ES poly bushings? I've read different opinions about them. What do you think?.

thanks for your time and thoughts, guys

Old 09-22-2010, 03:42 PM
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my weapon of choice is the 4" cut-off wheel on an electric grinder... Cut off my front upper control arm bolts last night.

As for the poly, its a give and take. The rubber ones will last long enough but the poly once will last longer. The only draw back is the reduced flex, or so everyone says... I think its all bull***** and it's going to flex either way. I say do the poly if you've got them.
Old 09-22-2010, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by s14unimog
my weapon of choice is the 4" cut-off wheel on an electric grinder... Cut off my front upper control arm bolts last night.

As for the poly, its a give and take. The rubber ones will last long enough but the poly once will last longer. The only draw back is the reduced flex, or so everyone says... I think its all bull***** and it's going to flex either way. I say do the poly if you've got them.
Thanks man
I think I'll go to homedep and see what they've got there. So there are cut-off wheels for a grinder.?... - cool. I thought that sawzall would be the only tool I could try there.
Also, did you cut the hat off or did you manage to cut the bolt under between the bushing and the arm? Looking at it it looks like a hell of a job, I am not even sure if it's possible to cut the hat of the bolt without denting the bracket. God, I hate this "situation" , something that should be a simple task turns out like another few days adventure ......... grrrrrrrrr

I actually have a one huge "rotary-tool-like" "vintage" B&D grinder, that I've restored ..huh (see attached pics), it's a big and heavy thing, has one speed (FAST!!!!). I am not sure if that thing is for the job , also I only have few old small grinder wheels for it. Maybe I should try ....
***************
another "Q"

Do you happen to know by chance, how hard would it be to remove the rubber from the shells of the new arms? Do I need to get that "special" bushing removal set ahead or maybe it would be possible to knock them out with a punch? Well, I'll know when I get the arms ... just looking ahead now
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Last edited by Dr ZEE; 06-09-2013 at 09:24 PM.
Old 09-22-2010, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr ZEE
Thanks man
I think I'll go to homedep and see what they've got there. So there are cut-off wheels for a grinder.?... - cool. I thought that sawzall would be the only tool I could try there.
Also, did you cut the hat off or did you manage to cut the bolt under between the bushing and the arm? Looking at it it looks like a hell of a job, I am not even sure if it's possible to cut the hat of the bolt without denting the bracket. God, I hate this "situation" , something that should be a simple task turns out like another few days adventure ......... grrrrrrrrr

I actually have a one huge "rotary-tool-like" "vintage" B&D grinder, that I've restored ..huh (see attached pics), it's a big and heavy thing, has one speed (FAST!!!!). I am not sure if that thing is for the job , also I only have few old small grinder wheels for it. Maybe I should try ....
***************
another "Q"

Do you happen to know by chance, how hard would it be to remove the rubber from the shalls of the new arms? Do I need to get that "special" bushing removal set ahead or maybe it would be possible to knock them out with a punch? Well, I'll know when I get the arms ... just looking ahead now
Since you have that grinder already, I would just get some cutting wheels for it and give it a try
Old 09-22-2010, 07:28 PM
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I have cut them off before.

I used a Saw-zall with either Milwaukee Rescue blades or Dewalt's upgraded steel blades(Can't remember the name).. The rescue blades last longer, but cutting through steel and rubber both does wear them out.

My main complaint with the Daystar Poly bushings I had was the squeaking... I had to grease them over and over and over and over and still could never eliminate the noise. Marine grease did a better job than poly grease ever did.
Old 09-22-2010, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 1armyguy
Since you have that grinder already, I would just get some cutting wheels for it and give it a try
yeah, I am going to go check if I can find some cut-off wheel that can be attached, there are two sizes of shafts that can be fitted in there. I guess I have to take the TOOL with me ...heh heh
Old 09-22-2010, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by whowey
I have cut them off before.

I used a Saw-zall with either Milwaukee Rescue blades or Dewalt's upgraded steel blades(Can't remember the name).. The rescue blades last longer, but cutting through steel and rubber both does wear them out.

My main complaint with the Daystar Poly bushings I had was the squeaking... I had to grease them over and over and over and over and still could never eliminate the noise. Marine grease did a better job than poly grease ever did.
thanks a bunch for input Every bit of someone's experience is a help here.
So from what you are saying I figure it is actually possible to cut between the bushing and the arm. It's pretty tight there, but I guess first I'll be cutting through some rubber and then get to actually the bolt. What I was worring is that I'd imagine that as the blade "cuts" through the rubber it gets jammed in there. I guess I should go slow without applying much pressure.

Anyhow, I hope to get back to this "project" as soon I get the arms and feel like 'facing the devil' again ..huh huh
I hope to have some extra energy and may make a pic or two , then 'll post an update.
***********

The poly bushings look just too damn cool, also as "advertized" with those special thrust washers I hoped that they woul add some stability while driving and cornering. That's just my fantasy...
Hmmmm, squeaking - that kinda would suck

I've installed Energy Suspension Bushings into new Crown Leaf Springs. Just finished that "project" And I really love the result, well, it's hard to tell what's playing the role here, as my old springs/bushings were really REALLY! crappy.

Now I moved to the "easy" part ...front CA ...hah hah , so I thought

ok, guys, thanks again for your thoughts and advice
appreciated
Old 09-22-2010, 08:05 PM
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I know from experience on my 240 that cutting out factory bushings is a pain in the ***.... GL
Old 09-22-2010, 08:10 PM
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I just cut one of mine out 2 weeks ago 12in torch blade in my saw and out like butter.
Old 09-22-2010, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Irongrave
I just cut one of mine out 2 weeks ago 12in torch blade in my saw and out like butter.
is that it? >>>>>>>>> http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...s&cm_ite=M0356

Old 09-22-2010, 08:53 PM
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yep they are one of the best blades I've run for cutting the hardened bolts bushing sleeves. Along with a host of other metal products. I'm the head caretaker for a summer day camp so tools earn my living and those blade kick
Old 09-22-2010, 08:53 PM
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The torch blade is a very good one ,I like it. CUTS LIKE BUTTER
Old 09-22-2010, 09:08 PM
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uh, cool, guys, thanks for that. now at least I know what to look for if I go sawzall road... I very much may do so , it's time for me to get one anyway, so many times I wish I had it, but instead was always using a hand saw ...
Old 09-22-2010, 09:22 PM
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though I'm busy this weekend my friends say I live by this line "have saw will travel"
Old 09-22-2010, 09:23 PM
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try a blow torch.. if u heat ur the bolt red hot it will slightly expand and maybe break the rust loose alil.

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