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Hack n' Tap or an S.Y.E?

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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 11:08 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Mittenbilly
Ok, first off, if you get a 4.5 RC lift (or the RE lift for that matter), it comes with extended shackles. If you throw coil spacers on that setup, you will have a mad prerunner stance. The best way to get that back end up a bit more would be to get some HDORE shackle relocation brackets. Still, if setup properly, those will only get you 3/4 to 1 inch.

Now, as far as your SYE dilemma goes, if I were you, I would just call up IRO and get their $240 HnT special and call it a day. Or if you are felling frisky, you could just drop the t-case and hope for the best.

Good luck man.

Actually the RC 4.5" uses the stock shackles if you get the leaf packs.
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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 12:02 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by bryanboonern
Actually the RC 4.5" uses the stock shackles if you get the leaf packs.
True true. I guess since the word budget was being thrown around, I defaulted to AAL. Haha.
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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 07:20 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Mittenbilly
Now, as far as your SYE dilemma goes, if I were you, I would just call up IRO and get their $240 HnT special and call it a day. Or if you are felling frisky, you could just drop the t-case and hope for the best.

Good luck man.
I agree 100% with the Iron Rock offroad HnT! It comes with a Drive shaft and for $40 you get the seal if you need it.
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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 09:08 PM
  #19  
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search on ebay... theres a HnT with rebuilt (balanced and all front shaft) for $200...
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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 09:21 PM
  #20  
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I just installed a hack n' tap set from Iron Rock Offroad about a week and a half ago. This is my recommendation having just done it. I go to college as well at Indiana university, I installed it in about 4 or 5 hours, didnt have much trouble except for the drive shaft was almost to long(but I have a chrysler 8.25 and forgot to tell them) but i managed to make it work with some extra grinding. From the design and basic idea behind the H&T it will hold up to just about damn near anything that your drive shaft will hold up to. The DS from IRO is a rebuilt front drive shaft from an xj. They are rebuilt with all spicer parts and after I inspected it, the DS seemed very solid and well rebuilt. I have no doubt it will hold anything I can throw at it.

Good luck to whatever you choose
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 12:56 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
search on ebay... theres a HnT with rebuilt (balanced and all front shaft) for $200...
Yea Iron Rock offroad HnT?
Originally Posted by cherokeefreak
I just installed a hack n' tap set from Iron Rock Offroad about a week and a half ago. This is my recommendation having just done it. I go to college as well at Indiana university, I installed it in about 4 or 5 hours, didnt have much trouble except for the drive shaft was almost to long(but I have a chrysler 8.25 and forgot to tell them) but i managed to make it work with some extra grinding. From the design and basic idea behind the H&T it will hold up to just about damn near anything that your drive shaft will hold up to. The DS from IRO is a rebuilt front drive shaft from an xj. They are rebuilt with all spicer parts and after I inspected it, the DS seemed very solid and well rebuilt. I have no doubt it will hold anything I can throw at it.

Good luck to whatever you choose
Thanks for the review.
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 07:23 AM
  #22  
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hack-...item518e09748f

hey look at that... it is iron rocks... hehehe... but its cheaper here... well from what they said above anyways... $220 shipped for me on ebay...
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 08:23 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
but its cheaper here... well from what they said above anyways... $220 shipped for me on ebay...
Since he has an '88 (at least that's what his profile says), he'll need the seal flange. That's what adds on the extra 40 bucks.
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 09:25 AM
  #24  
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l
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 09:32 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
and the 2 low thing is nuts for a pice also... i would do the cable converion (like i did) on the D30... that allows for 2 low and gets rid of the problem child the vacuum locking setup... you can buy a no BS kit for $200 but i did mine myself for bout $20...
There is a core charge on the transfer case @ quadratec and you get a big warranty BTW. Pretty sure $900 is right, at least that's what their newest catalog said.

you guys are over my head to the point now I need to ask a question
Okay, so I did the SYE (my buddy did it and was worried about "no bearings" but "followed the directions") We'll see, back on the road very soon. So as for the front 2LO, I have a D30 w/super 30 4.56 and ARB = removed and capped the vacuum.. is there a way for me to have 2LO w/o the tera kit?

Thanks to all..
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 10:11 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Mittenbilly
Since he has an '88 (at least that's what his profile says), he'll need the seal flange. That's what adds on the extra 40 bucks.
What years need the flange and which ones don't? I have a 99.....
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 11:55 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by bryanboonern
What years need the flange and which ones don't? I have a 99.....
96 1/2ish and older need the output seal. You wouldn't need it.
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 12:06 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by trapper
There is a core charge on the transfer case @ quadratec and you get a big warranty BTW. Pretty sure $900 is right, at least that's what their newest catalog said.

you guys are over my head to the point now I need to ask a question
Okay, so I did the SYE (my buddy did it and was worried about "no bearings" but "followed the directions") We'll see, back on the road very soon. So as for the front 2LO, I have a D30 w/super 30 4.56 and ARB = removed and capped the vacuum.. is there a way for me to have 2LO w/o the tera kit?

Thanks to all..
removed and capped the vacuum actuator or the little rubber lined vacuum port?

honestly i have the cable conversion so i can also do 2lo... but i have yet to find a reason to need it... doesnt do any good... if you gotta stop and switch into 2lo then you may as well hit 4hi or 4lo anyway... just doesnt make any sence... i sure wouldnt pay anything to have it...

so the price on the link above is with a core added on? still cheaper to rebuild yourself and buy a SYE... heck i could do this twice for the price above... my warranty is being able to fix it myself if i screwed it up the first time... plus it may have a warranty but im sure they would want you to pull it (or a shop at your cost) and have it sent back to them to fix at your cost for shipping also... for a rich city guy i could see this being a easy option but not for this poor cracker...

Last edited by huntingman2706217; Nov 9, 2009 at 12:13 PM.
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 12:07 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Mittenbilly
Since he has an '88 (at least that's what his profile says), he'll need the seal flange. That's what adds on the extra 40 bucks.
yeah forgot about the seal... well actually i didnt look to see if he needed it... your making me feel stupid in the thread... im going to go cry now... lol...
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 11:03 PM
  #30  
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woah,, that was definalty a lot of info! all of it helps though now that i got everything down can i get a T case drop and a HnT? or getting the HnT it elimantes needing to drop the T case?
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