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Ground strap question.....

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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 07:57 PM
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lurk520's Avatar
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From: Tucson, AZ
Year: 2002
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default Ground strap question.....

So my ground strap that goes to the firewall is broken and has been for a while. Now I was looking at the other end it is connected to, and that nut on the back of the block looks really difficult to access. So when I build my new one I would like to move it over to about the 2nd or 3rd bolt back that holds on the valve cover and connect the other end back to the firewall, then just cut off the old one. Do you guys think this would serve its purpose????
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 08:01 PM
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peep's Avatar
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Year: 1989 Laredo
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Engine: 4.0 L 6 Renix
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Grounding tends to be a culprit in many electrical issues. Any ground is better than no ground, if you have option, put in a couple positions of ground straps to provide redundancy. Metal to metal contact, paint is an insulator. Good you spotted the failed ground in the 1st place.
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 08:02 PM
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Yes it would.
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 09:31 PM
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Don't forget to use those star washers after removing paint or oil. For added measure I use electrical connector grease to keep the good connection. Star washer should be contacting first followed by the grounding lug, the the bolts/washers.
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 09:39 PM
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Year: 1988
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Originally Posted by lurk520
So my ground strap that goes to the firewall is broken and has been for a while. Now I was looking at the other end it is connected to, and that nut on the back of the block looks really difficult to access. So when I build my new one I would like to move it over to about the 2nd or 3rd bolt back that holds on the valve cover and connect the other end back to the firewall, then just cut off the old one. Do you guys think this would serve its purpose????
As long as it's got a solid connexion, no trouble. On RENIX, I've often relocated it to the rearmost fuel rail mounting screw with no ill effects (the mainfold-engine electrical connexion is effected by the manifold mounting screws.)

I wouldn't do the valve cover - limited contact area. Use the rearmost fuel rail mounting screw instead, since there's more contact area between the manifolds and cylinder head (via the screws) than the valve cover and head (via the screws.) A small but important distinction.

Also, the use of the fuel rail screw gets the ground connexion farther away from potential oil leakage - and therefore contamination.
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 09:46 PM
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Thanx for the suggestion, I will check that out....
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