ok, i'm just about to do the same thing to my jeep. let me know how hard the AA sye kit from porc is to install.
why did you go with that option vs the hack and tap?

 

i'm no expert, but from what i have gathered from spending lots of time reading on this site, the hack and tap is kind of the cheap, less than ideal way to fix the problem. but it sounds like quite a few people get along just fine with it, but I just decided i'm going to spend the extra money, even if its just to know its fixed "right." But we'll see how i feel about it when it comes time to tear apart my tcase, which i have never done before.....

 

If you have an NP242 t-case you have no choice but to do a hack-in-tap..Only diff really is the hack-n-tap you chop the shaft where as with the 231's you get a new shaft that's already modded..You can buy a new shaft for the 242's that's been chopped and tapped and such as well.

 

I actually ended up getting the porc sye because the aa was on back order. Installed it today, and it went pretty well. Took like 6 hours, but I didn't rush. I ended up removing the whole t-case since I felt more comfortable doing it on the bench, and I had to take my tcase drop out anyway. The hardest part about removing/installing the tcase was that a few a the nuts are hard to get to. I was just about ready to cut a ratcheting box end wrench in two to make it easier. Other than that, it was no big deal, just a little stressful. The porc directions are not very specific, I used some other ones i found on here to help. It worked great with the stock front ds, all my vibes are gone, including the grinding/growling when i let off! I'll have to wait and see about leaks...I heard the rear output seal tends to leak on the porc. Also you will need a metric bolt for the speed sensor that isn't supplied-the factory one is standard thread.

I need to cycle the rear suspension now, at normal ride level the shaft is only about 1" from fully extended. I'm guessing it will be fine, but if not, I'll have a shop lengthen it an inch or so.

 

ok great thanks for the information.

what model did you get, and what was included in the kit?

did you have to buy anything other than the porc kit, drive shaft, and a metric bolt?

 

This is the kit I installed:

http://www.performanceoffroadcenter....roducts_id=153

The only thing the kit lacks is the metric bolt. Make sure you have enough RTV sealer and ATF too. It comes with the yoke to run the front drive shaft on the back. I picked up a ds at a jy for $50.

 

ya im about to have the local 4x4 shop order this for me too cuz i got the grinding/rubbing intermitent when i let off also, but they gave my 4* shims and a t-case drop but im sure sure i even want to put the tc drop on if im ordering the sye? i mean if im going for the "right way fix" then should i have to give up the 3/4''-1'' clearance? and how much you think a shop install would cost for this?

 

Don't worry about putting in the tcase drop if you are going to do the sye soon. Like you say, its just lost ground clearance and extra stress on engine mounts. I have zero vibrations now. I am running 4* shims too.

 

ya well i put the 3/4'' tc drop (which was a pain!, because the bolts are threaded in there like a normal bolt but with NO nut to hold on to! so vice grips/penetrant/propane torch were my saving grace) and it took care of most of the vibes and most the grinding but its still there intermitent will decellerating from 55-30 mph. i figured itll buy me some time while i get the funds to get the SYE. but i talked to shop about installing the SYE and the kit is like $150-200 but he said (4x4 shop guy) that it would cost like $700-1100 to install!!!! he said there could be problems so they set a base price. should i just do it myself and maybe recruit some other car-savy buddies to knock it out? could i make a bigger problem by attempting it myself to save the install $$$?

 

For $1000 you could probably buy tickets for me to fly out there and help you put it in fly and back with money to spare. Go somewhere else or do it yourself!

 

Hooray revival of a dead thread! But I have the same exact Issue, has anyone figured out exactly what it is or did everyone go for the SYE?

 

i have a RE 4.5" kit with 31" tires on my jeep and have the EXACT same problem
it is exactly as you described it. and i have the transfer case spacers you have.
so heres the deal.
i went under my jeep checked the u-joints=not it
inspected my rear driveshaft = nothin wrong with it
The problem is that you need that SYE kit.
im not sure of the damage that can be caused if you dont get one but like you said: you can always just work the pedal and find that certain spot where it doesnt make the noise.
and when you let off the pedal you can just hit the break and it stops the noise.
i highly recomend getting the SYE
good luck

 

i got the SYE, rides like a dream now.

 

OK I have a NP235 transfer case. Is there a SYE kit for this one.

 

Sometimes after lifting the yoke on the rear driveshaft will bind. You can pull out the driveshaft and grind the yoke down to get more clearance. It should help in some cases others just need to get the SYE.