So I just picked up a "new" 99 Cherokee. This is now my 4th XJ and it gets to replace the only WJ that I have ever owned. I got the XJ for a great deal knowing it needs some work. PO stated it needs ball joints, TPS, tires and the left rear window needs fixed.

The window issue is basically this: the window (power) will roll down but not up and it also will randomly roll down when starting the engine. I would normally be skeptical about this except my WJ will also randomly roll down on startup BUT the WJ window will roll up when commanded. PO said he replaced the window motor but it still won't roll up so the mechanism is currently disassembled and window held closed with duct tape.

The battery was dead so I have not even heard the engine start yet. I did some clean-up today since the duct tape had failed and I found water inside under the rear seat. I'm hoping to get the battery in tomorrow to see what happens when I turn the key.

Future Goals: DD that won't fear some dirt. Looking at going with a 3 inch lift and 31's. I'm not really looking for flex, I would really like a softer smooth ride. My wife will drive it during the snowy days while her maxima hides in the garage. The rest of the year it will be my DD/hunting rig. I am planning on some sort of selectable lockers.

I am open to suggestions about lift and locker recommendations. I will be doing all the mods myself and have no issues doing them. I've just never attempted to build an off road vehicle with the goal being comfort over capability. The purpose being i want my wife to go off roading with me but her nerve conditions control most situations hence the reason for needing a plush ride. On that note has anyone seen or used air ride as an option?

Thanks for all your future suggestions.

 

I had an XJ before the rig I am currently driving. It didn't have air ride but I had installed air-shocks installed. It worked great because when Inwas loaded down with camping gear and 65qt Yeti it would sag a lot but I could just air up and bring it baxk to level. It would improve the handling also. I had installed on-board air with a york compressor and a small tank. So I plumbed the shocka to a home made manifold and valves and was able to air the shocks up or down individually while sitting behins the wheel. To some up that is a great option. For the lockers I ran the crappy dana 30 frnt and dana 35 rr. I had cheap lunchbox lockers in both diffs. Everyone said they diffs would grenade but it never happened. I ran 33 mud terains and even did the Rubicon trail twice. Never broke an axle or blew anything up. Everyone has an opinion and bottom line is some people are FOC. I did the opposite of you. I Went from XJ to WJ.

 

There is something I had been thinking about for years and recently my coworker had mentioned it to me as well. We were both thinking about an air bag system similar to what you see on low riders. Something you can control your height with, you could drop one side and raise the opposite side to compensate for side hill off camber situations kind of like combines do. Or you could raise the front and drop the rear for approach angles and vice versa. Obviously you would need a 4 link coil suspension in the rear too to function properly. I've always heard air ride is the smoothest ride you will get so why not use it to an advantage as well.

 

WJ's are infamous for poor wiring into the doors, XJ's less so, but that would still be my starting point with the window issue (not that I've bothered with mine, now it's up - & stays there).

Much as I was glad to be rid of my WJ, from a comfort point of view it was better (but then so is the KJ that presently supplements the XJ's). Now, I'm not suggesting XJ's are uncomfortable, far from it, but they do give away their age in the rough. Airbags have their place, although not sure it's under a Jeep, & they're costly & complex. Personally, I'd carefully research spring rates & shocker dampening (although any new ones will improve what you already have) & then look out for a pair of ZJ seats.

 

The window switch in a 99 XK is 24 years old and they definitely do some weird things. It's pretty simple to get the switch out. Remove the phillips head screws holding the door on, pry around the bottom edge until the plastic connectors start coming out and then the door card will come off and you can get to the window switch. I put one of in my 98 and 99 and solved the window problems. Door locks are an entirely different story.... If you get to the point of replacing the switch, the door seems to have to be grounded to work so the switch won't work if the door is not screwed back to the metal frame.

 

Thanks for the advice. I agree air bags probably don't belong under a jeep, it was mostly just an idea I have had rolling around for several years. I'll probably dig into the world of progressive rate springs and/or multi adjustment shock dampening systems. I plan to keep this Jeep for a long time so i won't mind spending a few extra bucks on the comfort items..

Update: I started the jeep today. It would not crank with the key but I jumped it at the start relay and it fired right up and ran smooth. I drove it around the block and then drove it to the shop where I work. It feels definitely like something is wrong in the steering but I'll know more when I can get it on the lift or at least up on a jack. I need to dig into the start circuit. The PO mentioned "it can't find neutral" which i assume means the neutral switch.

 

Glad my entirely personal view found favour.

Starting problems due to a Neutral Safety Switch failing can usually be confirmed (at least with an auto) by running the shift lever back & forth through the quadtant several times (& none too gently) if it'll then start, there's your problem (no reverse lights is another indicator). Before you write off the NSS (they're not cheap) try adjusting it. Failing that they can be fixed, removal without destroying it is the hardest bit.

 

I put my jeep on the lift today and gave it the once over. I removed the NSS from the trans, opened it up and found lots of buildup inside. I cleaned it up, freed up the spring pieces on the range wiper arm, cleaned out the boxes and put it back together. At first it made no difference but after some aggressive shifting I finally got it to crank in park, still won't in neutral but thats not a huge concern to me. I will order a switch but I don't know if the rock auto ones are any good vs a Napa or Mopar switch.

I also checked the fluids down under. Front axle level was good and the fluid looked good. Rear axle was black and sparkly. Transfer case was a white/brown fluid. Looks like water contamination.

 

A thorough clean & lube of an NSS usually restores it to as new condition. When the reverse lights failed, I intended to try adjusting mine, hoping to avoid removing it (some have overhauled theirs in place, but they are brave than me), only to find the adjuster nut was loose, I nipped it up &, voila, everything worked as it should. The start in N only lasted a few weeks, which indicates it's not quite right, but in practical terms it doesn't matter.

RA usually offer a choice of brands, so go for one you're comfortable with. NAPA's own brand is the only parts store stuff I'd trust (& someone here will probably tell you who makes their NSS) whereas I don't trust Mopar not to charge over the odds for the cheapest product they can source (which makes for a very expensive box) Others will say otherwise, but on a forum we're all entitled to our views -& to express them.

The difference in the oil in your diffs is odd, as its usually changed (or not) at the same time. The rear needs fresh oil, after a good clean, asap but the TC needs flushing & fresh fluid even sooner. Don't forget to free off the fill plug, before draining it: no fluid is even worse than the strange brew you have! Not sure how water got in there, but if you're going to do any deep wading, suggest you check it when you get home. Otherwise perhaps changing fluid again rather sooner than you might have otherwise, might'n be a bad idea.