Good news. Got my master cylinder, proportioning valve, 2 hardlines, both soft lines, brakes, rotors, and capilers done and installed. So far so good. Prolly the largest job I've undertaken as I ease unto wrenching. Hard brake lines are a pain. Up next is cleaning up off all the electro October parts and contacts, and maybe get my a/couple going. As far greasing and lubrication of things in the suspension, what should I be looking for? Here's a picture of my heep

 

Awesome. Enjoy the feeling! You'll soon reach the "no job is too hard" point, where you will only be limited by time and appropriate tools. Great looking Jeep by the way.

 

Yeah she's in pretty decent shape, been putting a lot of work into it. Wish the ac worked though, I think it's the clutch, as it doesn't ever seem to engage

 

Zero rust though on any part of the vehicle, it spent it's whole life in VA, one owner garage kept, had 160 on it when I got it, sitting at around 180k now. Came with a complete crate engine too, that I've kept stored

 

I think you should get rid of that money pit before it breaks you.


I'll be down next week to take it off your hands as a good Christian thing to do.......

 

Look for these:

 

Well new set of problems. When I'm moving in reverse with my foot slightly on the brake, I can hear a grinding noise. Also when fully stopping, there's a clunking noise. What did this idiot do wrong?

 

It is not unusual to hear some light grinding when redoing all the brakes and pads. Especially if you replaced the rear pads and drums (don't know if you did). For example, sometimes new drums will lightly contact the dust cover and needs a little time to wear a gap. Typically this settles out quickly. If it doesn't settle out quickly (100 miles) then, take it seriously and begin looking for clearance issues. Just to be on the safe side, check for any unusual clearance issues anyway.

I just redid my drum brakes, and they made a light grinding/rubbing noise for about 3 days until they settled in. The pads themselves were pretty noisy until they got a little wear-in on them.

A clunk on full stops usually relates to:
1. A need to clean and lube the slip yoke on the rear drive shaft coming out of the transfer case. The most common cause. Very easy job.
2. Worn or damaged transmission and motor mounts.
3. Broken leaf spring eyes (sometimes hard to see if they are up in the hanger box, and not normally the case on rust-free vehicles.

 

I didn't do the rear, only the front. Started with me going through calipers in 6 months, due to em locking up on the passenger side, so this time I replaced everything hoping it'll fix it, now the clunk haha

 

What kind of lube does the slip yoke require?

 

Opinions vary. I'm sure you could probably find Mopar slip yoke grease scientifically formulated for demanding slip yoke applications for $60 a tub (ok, maybe not). Most use standard hi-temp wheel bearing grease, and some use anti-seize (permatex). I don't personally think the anti-seize is a great idea. Because it is not a grease, and tends to get dry and doughy over time, which is exactly what you don't want on your slip yoke.

 

As for your calipers sticking on the passenger side, this is a really common problem on xj front brakes. I've encountered it twice. If the caliper slides are performing properly, the problem is usually caused by the slide rails on the knuckle itself. Even if you don't feel like replacing your knuckles right now, take the time to clean up those slide rails that the pads slide on, sand off any rough edges, and lube them with ceramic brake lube thoroughly before putting the pads back on.

Also make sure that the brake pad side that has the double prong is the one going towards the ground and resting on the knuckle slide rail. They can be installed backwards (passenger side pads on the driver side, and visa versa). Which leaves the single prong pad facing towards the floor, which increases the chances that the pad will bind on the knuckle slide rail.

 

I'm kind of confused. The pads on my capilers have 2 different connections. One is kind of a claw with 3 prongs that slideshe into the hole of the plunger on the capiler, and the other is a double prong

 

Hers the old one I replaced for reference

 

When you say rails, you mean the prongs attached to the brake bad right? I thought you only needed to lube the slide bolts