I wasn't going to change my transmission fluid since my jeep is so old. I didn't want to drop the pan (it's a hassle). But I just noticed today that there is a drain plug on the bottom of the pan. Hurray!

When I drain my tranny fluid how much will come out? I know some will stay in there. I need to know how much I need to put back in.

 

You get about half of it that way. 4 quarts. Drive it a while and do it a second time.
Dexron III.

 

this. I've done it thrice and it took about 3.5 qts to refill it. next time I'm dropping the pan and changing filters. it does look like a pita with the dipstick tube being attached, but nothin we can't handle. don't be skurred. need to change that filter anyhow.

 

3.75 quarts is about perfect. Go for it. The little washer under the plug is a crush type washer and might seep if not replaced.

 

thanks!

 

Drain -refill - drive and repeat untill the fluid stays a nice red/dark pink colour. Some change out the filter as the last drain-refill. Its really a screen, not so much a filter.
Anyway, with the fluid nice and red, you should be good to go for the next several thousand km's (or miles for you guys).

 

Try this it worked for me. Was iffy about it but it worked great

For future reference on "why does it do x" type posts, in addition to year of jeep, always include:

Engine (4 or 6 cylinder)
Mileage
2WD or WD
Any mods or recently replaced stock parts that may have something to do with your problem (EX: alignment issues, you should list any lift or other suspension mods/repairs)
Specific temps if possible. "Hot", "warm" and "cold" are relative, open to interpretation, and have different meanings for different components.

At any rate, letting your Jeep sit for 5 or 10 minutes in the driveway as a warm-up will warm up the engine. The transmission? Not so much. You really have to be driving the thing to get trans temps up in anything under about 30-40 minutes. Once the engine is hot you'll be circulating warmed fluid through the trans (the trans fluid will now be passing through a warm to hot radiator), but it's not the same as if the vehicle had been driven at 40+ MPH for the last 20 minutes.

My guess is your trans fluid is toast. Is it dark brown or black? It should be distinctly red in color. Dark red is passable, but it should definitely be more red than anything else. If it looks bad or smells burned, changing it will probably fix your issues. Either way, if it looks and smells bad, it should be replaced anyway, if for no other reason than to eliminate bad fluid as a cause of issues. I suppose you could have failing shift solenoids, but I'd start with fluid change if it looks like it could use it.

Here's my preferred method for changing it (copied from one of my earlier posts). It's faster, easier, more thorough, and less likely to have you dealing with new leaks than other methods.

Black/dark fluid is a bad sign. Personally, rather
then draining the pan 4 or 5 times,only changing
3 quarts at a time I
prefer the "let the tranny pump do the
work" method.
Disconnect the upper transmission line
from the radiator. Push a 4-5 foot length
of hose onto the fitting on the radiator
and drop the other end in a 5 gallon
bucket.
Tips: A length of old 5/8" garden hose
works for this. Use a worm clamp to hold
the hose on the fitting. Trust me, you
don't want this coming loose. Place a 3"
C- clamp or some other contraption on
the rim of the bucket to hold the end of
the hose a couple inches inside the top of
the bucket. Again, you don't want this
coming loose.
Stick a decent sized funnel in the fill tube
for the tranny and arm yourself with 8-10
quarts of the proper ATF. Now you need a
helper.
Have the helper start the engine and
keep their foot on the brake. As soon as
they do, your old black fluid will start
coming out of the hose into the bucket.
Your job is to pour new fluid down the fill
hole at the same rate its coming out of
the hose. Don't worry about being exact,
just keep the funnel full. Keep watch of
the fluid going into the bucket. It should
start looking better. After your first
gallon, have your friend, with e-brake and
foot brake both applied, shift through the
full range of gears, stopping for about a 4
count at each spot. Once he's at the
bottom, he can put it in Park for the rest
of the process. When you see nice red
fluid coming out of the hose, stop filling
the funnel and let it empty. About 5
seconds after it does, have your friend kill
the engine.
Hook everything back up. You've just
done a complete, or nearly complete
change of your fluid, including all that sits
in the torque converter! This method is a
" forward flush" as apposed to a "reverse
flush" that many shops do. The forward
flush is far less likely to damage all the
seals in the tranny and is gentler on
things as it uses the tranny's own pump
and normal operating pressures to do the
flush!
Once you're done and everything is
buttoned up, take it for about a 15 mile
drive to get everything up to full hot.
Check and top off your fluid as necessary. This method is also done all top side, so its easier to stay clean, doesn't require crawling under there on your back, or trying to change all the fluid 3 quarts at a time by draining the pan multiple times.

 

Don't worry bout first 2 parts this is what was sent to me. Third part is a easy way to flushing ur whole system

 

This sounds awesome. Just doing some research on doing a service on my tranny. Anyone have pics or video while doing this method?

 

Shouldnt you fit the hose to the transmission line that you just pulled off??
After all, thats where the transfluid comes out/through on its way to/ INTO the radiator...

 

i'm guessing the upper transmission line is the return. if you used the feed line to the radiator you'd be leaving whatever fluid is it there.

 

well, fluid usually flows from high to low, to not burden the flow by having to push it upwards, much like with the coolant hoses...let gravity do some work. And yes, that would leave some in the trans cooler, however thats very little...

 

I would think that for something like the trans cooler it would flow upwards, that eliminates any air that would be trapped in the lines. Flowing down would allow air to stay in the cooler. Most things like this use counter current flows which are normally against gravity.