I want to go to 37 or 39 I know a full width conversion would be in my best interest. What axles out of what cars would the option to go width and how much fabrication would be involved im no stranger to fab. I build trailers on spare time and how much more lift if any would I need. I have a rc 6.5 short arm with 2 inch blocks 1.75 coil spacers. And I know I need a long arm upgrade. All feedback is preciated. Thanks one last thing what happens to x flex joints past 8 inches

 

f350 for the d60's is what I would go after. upgrade the shafts to 35 spline superior or ten factory shafts. new spring perches are needed along with a anti wrap bar for the rear. for the front a complete bracket kit will be needed. search RE or claytonoffroad. i would ditch the 2" blocks. i would get some real springs ie: clayton, RE, alcan, bigoffroad. long arm will be needed since you will be binding the flex joints.

you will need new steering also. get some real lock outs from warn. add some beefy ujoints like ctm or superjoints. longfeild also makes a sweet joint. no point of going full width with tiny 30 spline shafts when you can get bullet proof shafts and joints. do your build once and do it right!

 

From a vet would it be worth it down here there is not a whole lot of rock crawling mostly texas gumbo and sand bars hence short arm or should I stick with 35s and the lift I have and how well will the old renix hold up

 

There are alot of ways to put full widths under your rig. 1st thing 1st you need to find a set of axles from a ford because they are diver side drop or you can flip your t-case around/different t-case and use chevy axles which are passenger side drop.

I would not do full widths with short arms because thats just a crappy way to build a jeep and people probably will flame you if you post it up online. 3 link or 4 link long arms are the way to go, or even leave springs front and rear (that would keep the cost down and is pretty easy).

Check out pirate4x4.com and read up. BEWARE if you ask stupid rookie questions without doing research in the hardcore sections, they will flame you. Alot of the guys over there have been offroading for 20+ years so they know their stuff. When you get a good idea what you want in your rig then you can ask more in depth questions and get good advice.

Plus some of those builds are SWEET!!!

 

Ford F250 snowfighter front Dana 60. Very hard to find but a lot of Ford 60 fronts don't have enough tube on the driver side for the coil buckets and control arm mounts. For the rear a 60, 70 or 14 bolt would be great. If you use axles out of a 99 and newer Ford get both because they changed the lug pattern to metric. I have ran 38s on my front 44 and rear 60 with out problems but wish I had waited for a front 60. I currently have a short arm but a long arm is in the works. Consider gearing as well because with those size meats you need some deep gears. My 4.56s are OK for my 35s but wish I had 5.29s for the 38s.

 

Here's a pic for those who say a short arm with 6.5" won't flex.