fuel pump issues
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
From: Memphis tenn
Year: 88
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i6 4.0
Ok guys i have some fuel pump issues. I've replaced. The fuel pump 3 times and still starts humming. After truck warns up and. If i punch the gas it will bog out n die I've nvr had this problem. And i don't. Know where to look replaced the filter also.
It is a 88 Cherokee. Laredo any advice. Would be apriciated
It is a 88 Cherokee. Laredo any advice. Would be apriciated
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 1
From: Bakersfield CA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
check your fuel pump pressure(should be 35ish with the regulator hooked up and 40ish unhooked), and is your ballast resistor hooked up?
bogging down could be a MAP going bad or broken vac line to it, TPS going bad?
bogging down could be a MAP going bad or broken vac line to it, TPS going bad?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
From: Memphis tenn
Year: 88
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i6 4.0
Its a new engine. The pumps. Quiet until it warms it drives fine until warm. Then it boggs m backfires through. Intake while pumps. Buzzing. Through. The floor replaced. Tps twice map i swtchd i got spare stuff. Can't find any melted wires I'm about at a loss but my fuse panel. Did get wet about a year ago n my door locks quit wrkin. They do work on there own like intermittent. Locks and unlocks while driving.
Last edited by anothadayridin; Apr 27, 2013 at 09:41 PM.
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CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
OK. You need a meter, or a friend with one. Thinking you might have issues with "the lower" wires, (under the manifolds) or the IAT...anyway find a meter.
Start with Cruisers sensor ground test. (his "Pink Link", or find it in my signature) Then adjust the TPS. With the grounds checked,& good, you have a place to start from. THEN CHECK THE AC VOLTAGE OUT FROM YOUR CPS
Like highmileage said, and I pm'd you check the fuel pressure. If you changed the pump three times, that makes four pumps. Probably it's not the pump.
Check your Map tube;
There is a brittle little tube. It comes out of a rubber plug, low on the engine side of the throttle body. It runs back to the firewall, then up to your MAP sensor sort of high up there near center on the firewall. CRUCIAL!! The MAP will tell the ECU to dump fuel with less/no vacuum. Any crack or blockage and it will be pig-rich. (black smoke, fouled black plugs). You can pull the line off the MAP and feel for vacuum with your finger. If it runs!
Sort of dumb, but easy and maybe informative shot. Unplug both your IAT up on the manifold, and the Engine Coolant Temp sensor down under the manifold's and see if it still does it.
Renix will run on "default" settings until it warms a bit, then start using more sensors. (like the engine and incoming air temp sensors)
How is the idle? Does it "cycle" every 20-30 seconds?
So, there's that!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
From: Memphis tenn
Year: 88
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i6 4.0
Ok it is a h.o swap i did cruisers. Instructions. Yada yada yada lol i just. Checked the coolant. Temp wires the plug. Has melted. From the exhaust. Ist u talking. About the thing on the back of the intake. Would any of this cause the fuel pump to heat up n start buzzing. Alot
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
From: Memphis tenn
Year: 88
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i6 4.0
The pump. Starts out fine then starts cutting. In and out of heavy buzzing. Until its always. Buzzing. Loud and vibing the floor
In the picture is that the pump ground
In the picture is that the pump ground



