Savage71

Hey guys. Just finished putting new freeze plugs in the XJ. Now I notice that the hard fuel line is leaking from the bracket that attaches it to the intake. Called my local dealer (who said 'good luck finding that')..apparently, the pre-bent line isn't made anymore. Anyone know where to get one? If not, was thinking of getting injector hose and using injector clamps at each end (fuel rail and under firewall). Reasonable idea? Any other suggestions? 2000 XJ 4.0. Thanks!

Jesse Hallum

This OEM part is still widely available. The PN should be 52100349AB for the fuel rail bundle that fits many Chrysler products. Your best bet is to get the exact PN from your dealer, then google it up.

For example, the rail bundle for my 2001 Sport can be found at:

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/...2100349AB.html

I suspect yours is identical. Plenty of sources for a new assembly. My advice is to buy a new OEM unit instead of a rigged repair.

Savage71

Great! Thanks for the info...esp the PN. I def prefer to replace the whole thing, but was stumped when the dealer said they weren't available. Much appreciated! Happy New Year.

Jesse Hallum

> Much appreciated! Happy New Year.

You're quite welcome. However, I erred on that P/N; it turns out to be P/N 52100135AE for a year 2000 model.

To download an OEM parts catalog, go to:

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-pa...ts-Catalog.pdf

I found this on page 207, item 1. Do an internet search on this specific part number, and you will easily find what you need.

For others interested in downloading a .PDF file with OEM schematics and part numbers, see:

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowled...?utm_source=cj

Savage71

Thanks for the update. I was able to cancel my order from www.onsaletruckparts.com before it was shipped. The guy over there is working with me to locate the correct part. He said nothing was coming up under the above p/n, but I gave my VIN and hes going to check it out. Will post an update when I get more info. Really appreciate all your help Jesse.

Savage71

Ok. Went to the dealer in person (Friday) and was able to locate the part. Turns out to be p/n: 52100349AB for my 2000 (as you mentioned above). Not sure why he said it was no longer available when I called. Went back on Saturday to pick it up and noticed a nick in the nylon portion of the line...drag! It looked like the correct part though. They are shipping another one down from Wisconsin. Should be here Tues. Will report back.

Savage71

Forgot to update after receiving the fuel line. p/n referenced above (349) was correct and snapped right in without issue. I lubed the nipples with a dab of Sil-Glyde (man...that sounds bad). Was installed in 10 minutes with no drama.

This whole repair would have been straight forward and simple had the dealer not mistakenly told me the part wasn't available.

-Thanks jesse, for your help.

PocketsEmpty

Savage, not to hijack, but how did your freeze plug job go? Did you put brass ones in?

I recently went through a lot of drama with the freeze plugs on my XJ! And was worried about my fuel line bending apart from all the times i've had to disconnect it, lol.

Savage71

Hey pockets, the freeze plugs job started out as a pita. as you know, it was difficult to get on the lower intake bolts since you can't see them at all. once off, the plugs came out with no issue. i used brown rtv and yea, went with the brass plugs. new manifold gasket as well. On reinstall...i got a little smarter. I marked (with tape) the relative location of each lower manifold bolt on the top of the valve cover. I found that with the ps pump out, i could reach between the exh and intake manifolds from the front of the jeep (with left hand) and guide the socket/bolt into the hole. knowing where the bolt hole was and being able to guide it in with left hand made it laughably easy. all bolts (4, i think) were installed in 10 min and ready for torque. you do need a myriad of straight and swivel extensions, but man, that helped a LOT. where did you run in to trouble?

PocketsEmpty

Nice! Pic looks just like mine. The problem I ran into was that the first set of brass I got were way too tight, and I unknowingly knocked a hole in one after I put them all in. So, got it all together and fired her up and it started leaking immediately. After a lot of cussing, I started tearing it down again and decided I'll go with the standard steel plugs. The originals lasted 160k miles, so I should be good, right? WRONG. I put them in with RTV and they went in a lot easier than the brass ones which left me with not much confidence but I figured under 16psi of pressure they aren't going anywhere. Well, I had one pop out on me while driving which led to my engine overheating and using my AAA tow to get it to my garage.

After a lot more cussing, I knew I had to do the brass ones. So, third times a charm right? I tore it down again (getting really good at it now lol), and this time I decided to remove the motor mount to get more leverage on hammering them in. Put Indian Head on the new plugs and got them in there and so far so good! The way you described guiding the bolts in sounds exactly how I did it as well. Those two back ones were tricky with the wiring harness in the way, lol

Savage71

holy crap dude! that's brutal! Its got to be almost funny now though, right? sounds like I got lucky as the plugs I got seemed to fit good (although you have me wondering now). Picked them up at Napa..i think they were 2 1/2's. As for the 2 rear bolts, yea, they were tough...I obviously wasn't able to get a torque wrench on them, so really hoping I don't develop a manifold leak. I am NOT interested in doing that job again..also just hoping the plug behind the bell housing is ok..I didn't want to tear out the trans to replace a freeze plug that I don't THINK is leaking. ha!

btw, have you checked your fuel line at the intake bracket? Mine was metal bracket on metal fuel line and while it looked fine, there was a pinhole leak from corrosion. I could see mine drip about every 3 sec when running (or after turning the key to prime the fuel system). in my pic, you can see a ziptie just below the antilock brake...thats about where the leak was. Just lookin out man...

PocketsEmpty

Right, after moving that fuel line around so much (it was in the way through the whole process pretty much lol), I definitely needed to keep an eye on it for leaks. So far so good and the whole system isn't leaking a drop of anything as far as I can tell. I think my heater core might be seeping a tiny bit, but thats a whole 'nother story (FML)

I was able to get a torque wrench on all my bolts, i just torqued them all to 28-30 ft lb I believe.

Savage71

The fuel line definitely gets in the way. I ziptied it back...was sure I was going to bend/kink it. They cost about $70...btw. heh. good luck with the heater core.

93XJRTSmith

My fuel line just started leaking from the clip that secures it to the intake manifold. -_- dont have time to fix it yet. would you recommend replacing the entire line? from the fuel rail back? or just a quick fix with a hose and hose clamps? thanks buddy

Savage71

Hey Smith. Personally, I would replace the entire line. I thought about splicing a piece of fuel injection hose in there, but made me nervous. The manifold is right there, if that splice blows off, you'll have fuel pouring on a hot manifold...not worth it to me. The part was $70 for my 2000...I got it direct from the dealer as I had trouble matching p/n's online. Replacing the line would take about the same time as fabricating a splice...its an easy job. good luck.

also, the replacement line comes with plastic around the clip...so it won't likely corrode again.