Fuel Injector Connector Replacment
#1
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Year: 1989 Limited
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I-6 4.0L AMC Renix
Fuel Injector Connector Replacment
(89 XJ 4.0)
I am going to be doing the 746 [edited] injector swap but I started removing the injector connectors and the first one started to break so I stopped before it fully broke. I want to get some replacment injector connectors so if/when I break one or two or all of them I can just splice in new ones and not have to worry about it. Does anybody know where to get them? I looked online and nothing seemed like it would be a 100% match for the stock injectors. Or a part number would be nice. Just would rather have them on hand in case I break those old connectors than be a sitting duck if I do break them and the Jeep becomes Undrivable. (I know the 746 swap is technically Modified but the connectors are stock so that why I'm posting in the Stock section).
I am going to be doing the 746 [edited] injector swap but I started removing the injector connectors and the first one started to break so I stopped before it fully broke. I want to get some replacment injector connectors so if/when I break one or two or all of them I can just splice in new ones and not have to worry about it. Does anybody know where to get them? I looked online and nothing seemed like it would be a 100% match for the stock injectors. Or a part number would be nice. Just would rather have them on hand in case I break those old connectors than be a sitting duck if I do break them and the Jeep becomes Undrivable. (I know the 746 swap is technically Modified but the connectors are stock so that why I'm posting in the Stock section).
Last edited by LiamLikeNeeson; 09-20-2017 at 09:35 PM.
#4
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Year: 1989 Limited
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I-6 4.0L AMC Renix
Haha well it's good to know it's there just incase. Rockauto just takes a while to ship to me. About a week- week and a half. Maybe I'm just used to amazon prime and I've grown impatient with shipping? Anyhow, what brand is best? ACDelco, Dorman, or Standard motor products?
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Year: 1997
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I never messed with mine yet, but when replacing a connector in most vehicles, all you need to do is remove a plastic retainer. That retainer can be red, blue, yellow or whatever, and may need some force as they usually have a small ridge to help them stay put. Once that retainer is removed, take small pin and release locking tabs inside the connector so the terminal can be removed, and pull the entire terminal out of the rear of the connector. Those locking tabs are often thin and easily broken if your are not careful, but if the connector is junk, no worries. Just dont break them on the new connector. Take the new connector and remove its plastic retainer and push the wires into the connector in the same way as the old, making sure they are going into the proper slot first. You may or may not hear a faint click as the small locking tabs latch onto the terminals. Replace the plastic retainer and you are done. Also, some connectors have a rubber-like seal on the backside that can be, or needs to be, removed as well.
I have done this with many different connectors over the years. This saves the wiring with no need to cut and splice, which is just another link in the chain that can fail.
I have done this with many different connectors over the years. This saves the wiring with no need to cut and splice, which is just another link in the chain that can fail.
#6
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0
I never messed with mine yet, but when replacing a connector in most vehicles, all you need to do is remove a plastic retainer. That retainer can be red, blue, yellow or whatever, and may need some force as they usually have a small ridge to help them stay put. Once that retainer is removed, take small pin and release locking tabs inside the connector so the terminal can be removed, and pull the entire terminal out of the rear of the connector. Those locking tabs are often thin and easily broken if your are not careful, but if the connector is junk, no worries. Just dont break them on the new connector. Take the new connector and remove its plastic retainer and push the wires into the connector in the same way as the old, making sure they are going into the proper slot first. You may or may not hear a faint click as the small locking tabs latch onto the terminals. Replace the plastic retainer and you are done. Also, some connectors have a rubber-like seal on the backside that can be, or needs to be, removed as well.
I have done this with many different connectors over the years. This saves the wiring with no need to cut and splice, which is just another link in the chain that can fail.
I have done this with many different connectors over the years. This saves the wiring with no need to cut and splice, which is just another link in the chain that can fail.
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#8
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Rock Auto has them for only $5 each with wire pigtail and new clips. Why would you want to mess around with old brittle, dirty connectors when the new ones are so cheap. For $30 bucks and some solder you can basically make a new harness for the injectors. The wires get really weak from the heat and the angle they are kept at. Not worth the effort to resurrect old ones in my opinion.
Last edited by 67 GMC; 09-17-2017 at 12:15 PM.
#11
Member
I never messed with mine yet, but when replacing a connector in most vehicles, all you need to do is remove a plastic retainer. That retainer can be red, blue, yellow or whatever, and may need some force as they usually have a small ridge to help them stay put. Once that retainer is removed, take small pin and release locking tabs inside the connector so the terminal can be removed, and pull the entire terminal out of the rear of the connector. Those locking tabs are often thin and easily broken if your are not careful, but if the connector is junk, no worries. Just dont break them on the new connector. Take the new connector and remove its plastic retainer and push the wires into the connector in the same way as the old, making sure they are going into the proper slot first. You may or may not hear a faint click as the small locking tabs latch onto the terminals. Replace the plastic retainer and you are done. Also, some connectors have a rubber-like seal on the backside that can be, or needs to be, removed as well.
I have done this with many different connectors over the years. This saves the wiring with no need to cut and splice, which is just another link in the chain that can fail.
I have done this with many different connectors over the years. This saves the wiring with no need to cut and splice, which is just another link in the chain that can fail.