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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 09:51 AM
  #16  
mithuth's Avatar
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From: Warren, PA 16365
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I'm in NW PA. If you need a hand, bring it up. I've done more hubs and TREs than I can shake a stick at. My 2003 TJ on 35s has eaten up a few hubs in it's day. lol
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 11:16 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by TheJerm
The how-to with Pics
*note: dont hit the head of the bolt with hammer, use a socket

Also I recommend Timken Hub assembly. $100 at Autozone with 3 year warranty, just replaced mine this past weekend. Or you can get F.A.G. hubs, which are OEM with 5 yr warranty but will cost $150 + a piece
Wow! That DIY article is awesome!
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 11:17 AM
  #18  
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From: Maryland
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Originally Posted by mithuth
I'm in NW PA. If you need a hand, bring it up. I've done more hubs and TREs than I can shake a stick at. My 2003 TJ on 35s has eaten up a few hubs in it's day. lol
Thanks for the offer. Funny thing is, I may be living near you in about 4 months. I have been looking up North, for 1-2 acres, with a home, or mobile on it. i need out of the suburbs, and looking to get wooded. Thats the area I have been leaning towards.....Sorry, off topic i guess!
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 12:03 PM
  #19  
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From: Warren, PA 16365
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This is a GREAT area to live, crappy place to make a living ... if ya catch the drift. You'll be facing a lot of min-wage, entry level jobs up here, unless you've got some degree or skills and a sexy resume`
added: I am in town in Warren. My neighbor across the street is selling her place cheap to move south. Split level home separated into up and down stairs apartments. All new pipes and electric with 2 stall detached garage, only wants 37K for it. I was going to grab it up and rent out the top and bottom to cover mortgage and have some extra income each month, but I can't be bothered to babysit tenants, ya know. lol I can get you pics if interested. The "city" of Warren is more back woods rural, and you're a short drive from tons of nature trails for walking/hiking, lots of ATV trails, and tons of places for hunting, fishing, boating, camping, outdoors type stuff. (Not sure how out in the woods you want to be.)

As for that hub goes, like everything else in a Jeep soak the hell out of it in PB a day or so before, it can be stubborn, but is pretty simple as far as the mechanics of it.

Last edited by mithuth; Oct 22, 2011 at 12:09 PM.
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 01:18 PM
  #20  
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In my experience, that nut is the hardest part of the job. And yeah, if youve got the center caps that come off and allow access, pull them. Youll have to jack it up, take off the tire, pull the caps, put the tire back on and lower it, but that 5 minutes makes a HUGE difference. Good luck.
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 08:13 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by mithuth
This is a GREAT area to live, crappy place to make a living ... if ya catch the drift. You'll be facing a lot of min-wage, entry level jobs up here, unless you've got some degree or skills and a sexy resume`
added: I am in town in Warren. My neighbor across the street is selling her place cheap to move south. Split level home separated into up and down stairs apartments. All new pipes and electric with 2 stall detached garage, only wants 37K for it. I was going to grab it up and rent out the top and bottom to cover mortgage and have some extra income each month, but I can't be bothered to babysit tenants, ya know. lol I can get you pics if interested. The "city" of Warren is more back woods rural, and you're a short drive from tons of nature trails for walking/hiking, lots of ATV trails, and tons of places for hunting, fishing, boating, camping, outdoors type stuff. (Not sure how out in the woods you want to be.)

As for that hub goes, like everything else in a Jeep soak the hell out of it in PB a day or so before, it can be stubborn, but is pretty simple as far as the mechanics of it.
Thanks very much! I am going to be looking after xmas, hopefully around March. I work from home now. I worked labor all my life, until about 6 years ago. I do webmaster work from home. So I pretty much can live anywhere that I get signal. I can't take living in the suburbs anymore. It is becoming overpopulated, and "not for me". I need woods! I went and picked up my Jeep, and the guy lived somewhat wooded. I didn't want to leave!

Yeah, I am going to soak everything down. I even sprayed PB on stuff lately that I won't be removing. LOL
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 08:14 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by bigvig
In my experience, that nut is the hardest part of the job. And yeah, if youve got the center caps that come off and allow access, pull them. Youll have to jack it up, take off the tire, pull the caps, put the tire back on and lower it, but that 5 minutes makes a HUGE difference. Good luck.
I have the stock wheels. I will remove that cap, drop it down, and remove that center nut, before I do anything, it does seem easier to do.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 01:57 PM
  #23  
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okay, picked up my Timken Bearing. Wow, they have a lifetime warranty at Auto Supermarket.. Pretty cool!
I am lost on something.
I know I have to get the 36mm axle nut to 175 Ft. Lbs. My torque wrench only goes to 150 ft lbs. Any ideas? I want to make sure I get it right.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 06:00 PM
  #24  
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From: Denver, CO
Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0
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Anyone know the length and pitch of the spindle bolts? I'd like to replace those and the axle nut when I do the bearing. Also, for those of you who went with the cheaper $40-ish bearings, do you know if they are manufactured in the U.S. and what their life expectancy is?

Thanks.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 06:53 PM
  #25  
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Being without a torque wrench, I deal with the axle nut like so: Before removing it, look at the exposed threads and note how many there are. Stick a big lever in the hub studs to counter the torque applied loosening the nut. Put it back together the same way, leaving the same amount of thread exposed. Obviously this isn't accurate if it wasn't torqued to spec initially, but I'm assuming mine was as the axle nut and pin looked like they had been untouched for the life of the jeep.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 08:37 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by TonyPa
okay, picked up my Timken Bearing. Wow, they have a lifetime warranty at Auto Supermarket.. Pretty cool!
I am lost on something.
I know I have to get the 36mm axle nut to 175 Ft. Lbs. My torque wrench only goes to 150 ft lbs. Any ideas? I want to make sure I get it right.
Depending on the length and accuracy of your torque wrench you might be able to add an extension of some sort .. to find ~175 ft/lbs.

.. or try to determine approx. movement or guesstimate an additional 25 ft/lbs for your torque wench, torque specifications are usually between min. & max. factory tolerances ...

... Torque ft/lbs = Length X Weight / 12 ...

the problem may be trying to fabricate or find an extension to fit your tw and 36mm socket

here is one formula for an extension.

M1 = M2 x L1 / L2

M1 is the torque setting of the wrench.
M2 is the actual torque applied to the nut
L1 is the normal length of the wrench
L2 is the extended length of the wrench

and another using an extension calculator

http://www.belknaptools.com/extcalc.asp

e.g. 18 inch tw @ 150 ft/lbs w/ 3 inch ext. = 175 ft/lbs
_____

http://www.specialpatrolgroup.co.uk/...ue/torque.html

http://www.finishing.com/118/94_crows_foot_torque.shtml

Last edited by Anony; Nov 3, 2011 at 03:07 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 08:45 PM
  #27  
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Think something backwards there.. wouldn't it be M1=M2xL2/L1?

Last edited by Slick761; Nov 2, 2011 at 08:47 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 09:48 PM
  #28  
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===

Last edited by Anony; Nov 20, 2013 at 12:13 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 10:28 PM
  #29  
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From: Northern Ontario, Canada
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just go a little past 150. you will be fine.
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 07:31 AM
  #30  
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Thats why you bought timkens, if the torque is wrong and the bearings go bad in 2 years then you get free replacements!!!
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