Front Wheel Bearings
#1
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Front Wheel Bearings
I just got my 1998 Cherokee 4x4 inspected. The mechanic told me my frint wheel bearings need changed. I knew something was wrong. I checked them and the wheels were slightly loose. But the front end parts were tight.
I checked with advance, they said they have them. 122.00 each! WOW.
He said something about removing the hub. Is there an article somewhere on how to do this?
I am used to the old style bearings. These must be different. I didn't buy them yet. So i didn't see one.
I checked with advance, they said they have them. 122.00 each! WOW.
He said something about removing the hub. Is there an article somewhere on how to do this?
I am used to the old style bearings. These must be different. I didn't buy them yet. So i didn't see one.
#2
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
it's a hub wheel bearing assembly which comes as a unit. Remove the wheel, remove the caliper, remove the caliper bracket, remove the rotor, remove the 3 bolts going through the back of the spindle into the hub (this may require some pb blaster, heat, and a breaker bar), and then the fun part of getting it to come out of the spindle. You can use screw one of the bolts back in partially, and put an extension between the head of the bolt and the knuckle, and use the power steering to press it out.
#3
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
The how-to with Pics
*note: dont hit the head of the bolt with hammer, use a socket
Also I recommend Timken Hub assembly. $100 at Autozone with 3 year warranty, just replaced mine this past weekend. Or you can get F.A.G. hubs, which are OEM with 5 yr warranty but will cost $150 + a piece
*note: dont hit the head of the bolt with hammer, use a socket
Also I recommend Timken Hub assembly. $100 at Autozone with 3 year warranty, just replaced mine this past weekend. Or you can get F.A.G. hubs, which are OEM with 5 yr warranty but will cost $150 + a piece
#4
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*adding: you will have to remove the hub nut. that fugger is torqued down to at least 175 ft/lbs, so an impact is best, but can be done by jumping up and down on a 6 foot breaker bar a bunch of times.
you will probably need to have it in 4lo to lock the front drive axles. unless you can access the nut with the wheel still on the ground.
good luck.
you will probably need to have it in 4lo to lock the front drive axles. unless you can access the nut with the wheel still on the ground.
good luck.
#6
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Year: 1997
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ahhh yes, forgot to mention the hub nut, lol
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#8
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I'd estimate I replaced each side hub assembly at least 3 times as piece on my jeep. Air tools are the best and easiest way. Getting the hub out, I'd recommend a hub puller. Its the safest way to do it, but I've used the hammer it till it comes out method a few times.
-Joe
-Joe
#9
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The hub nut is SIMPLE to get off by keeping the Jeep on the ground, using the correct socket and a 2 foot breaker bar. Put it on there and just step on it and it should break free easily. To torque it down, put everything back together including the tire, put it on the ground and torque it to 175ft lbs. Really simple.
#10
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The hub nut is SIMPLE to get off by keeping the Jeep on the ground, using the correct socket and a 2 foot breaker bar. Put it on there and just step on it and it should break free easily. To torque it down, put everything back together including the tire, put it on the ground and torque it to 175ft lbs. Really simple.
umm, yeah. but you always get that "one" that someone torqued to god knows what... 3 big guys on a 4 foot pipe jumping up and down thinking it's never gonna break loose.
then we had to get that hub separated... took hours.
then i started using an electric impact for the hub nut, and the extension trick using the steering to pop any old, seized hub unit with ease every time.
and yes, 175 is correct, but some seem to be on a lot tighter than that.
#11
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Youre right, it might be on tighter, but the KEY is to keeping the tire on and leaving it on the ground. That makes a HUGE difference. I dont care if 4wheel is locked or not. Putting it on the ground doesnt allow the tire to move at all AND provides leverage. MUCH easier on the ground, ESPECIALLY if its over-torqued.
#12
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yup, providing he has rims that can allow this. hopefully he does, cause this could be a real PITA.
cheers
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cheers
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#13
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Or.....it could be like mine and some how in the Michigan winters did not manage to get stuck at all. It was the first actual work i did solo on my jeep, and I had it all done in good time while improvising a lot, just a normal ratchet and a 1' cheater I found. I just took it all apart to expose the nut and put the wheel back on and set it back down on the ground. I am a small guy too, and easily beat the hub assembly off after that with just a hammer and large screw driver in under 2 mins
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks guys! I truly appreciate all the input.
I will be doing mine this week. I will pull my center cap. I have stock rims for now, so maybe it will allow me to break that nut loose before I jack it up. I have to see if my torque wrench goes to 175 ft. lbs. I am sure it does, but not positive. Doesn't sound like a horrible job. I just want my front end right. Everything else is tight. They some play, so they need done for sure!
I will be doing mine this week. I will pull my center cap. I have stock rims for now, so maybe it will allow me to break that nut loose before I jack it up. I have to see if my torque wrench goes to 175 ft. lbs. I am sure it does, but not positive. Doesn't sound like a horrible job. I just want my front end right. Everything else is tight. They some play, so they need done for sure!