I went through the effort of writing up a very detailed how-to b/c I personally like to see all the steps before attempting a job.
I try to understand what I am getting into, and what problems I may encounter, and if it's a reasonable project to attempt with the basic tools I have.

Most here will consider this overkill.
That's why I wrote "beginner" in the title.
B/c even something as simple as a rusted nut can stop a beginner with limited tools in his tracks.
Hopefully, this one will be useful for someone going forward.

One note before I start. In hindsight, I think my shock was fine.
It was rusted to death, but it technically did not have any leaks or caked on dirt.
When I compressed the shock with my hands, it seemed to have the same amount of tension as the new one.
But, I did notice the new shock expands/decompresses much faster than the old one.
Does this mean the old shock is bad? For $120, I just wanted to learn how to replace my 4 shocks regardless.

Besides ordering the shocks, I also used these tools:

• Liquid wrench
• Wire brush
• Nut splitter.
  Nut splitter.
• LARGE 4 1/2" channellocks
  LARGE 4 1/2" channellocks

1) Loosen lugs nuts on the wheel. 19mm.

2) Jack up the front of the car.

3) Remove wheel, and there's the shock.



4) Remove 2 lower bolts. 14mm.
You will need to use a wrench to hold the bolt in place while you use a ratchet to unscrew the nut underneath.
Wire brush the rusty exposed threads, and spray with some liquid wrench lube.



5) Remove upper shock nut that is under the hood.
I would wire brush all the rust and add some liquid wrench oil on the threads.
Hold the shock body with a pair of large channellocks, and try to spin the nut off with a wrench.
As you can see, this thing is huge!


Mine top nut was rusted solid and it would not come off.
I could not fit a Dremel in there.
I had to remove the airbox and use a nut splitter to get this bolt off.

To remove the airbox, you'll need to:

• Detach the vacuum hose
• Detach the air intake hose clamp
• Detach the 3 metal clamps
• Remove the top.
• Remove the air filter element
• Remove the 2 bolts at the bottom
• Move the entire air box out of the way.

6) Next, I split the top bolt with the nut splitter.
I used my 1/2" drive socket for extra leverage.
Once you crack one side, spin the shock 180* to crack the other side


7) Once you have the top nut split, slowly pull the shock down into the wheel well and remove it.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Make sure you install the bushing and washer in the right order.
There is a pair above and below the fender line.



The passenger side was MUCH easier.

This time I decided to try doing it without removing the wheel.
It's possible, just somewhat annoying to work around the wheel.
I'd suggest you just remove the wheel.

This time, I made sure to wire brush and lube the threads of the 3 bolts for easier removal.
The top bolt on the passenger side has enough clearance to work with a socket set.
But, Notice how you need clearance from the A/C pipe??
I used my 1/2" drive with a 3/8" deep socket and 2 wobble extensions.
The nut came off really easily.

 

Congrats.


Why did you reuse the stock rusty bottom bolts?

 

I did this on a Sunday, plus it's also a hassle to leave your car jacked up while driving around looking for a bolt.

I wire brushed and oiled up the old bolts, and they seemed fine.
Might as well have welded them into place b/c these are the last pair of shocks this XJ will ever see.

 

Just did the passenger side.
It was cake compared to the driver's side.
Nut came right off.

 

nevermind

 

After days of fighting that driver side nut, all it took was a nut splitter? I swear that was suggested on the first page of your 28 page thread...

 

1996sportXJ,

You're just trying to bust his nuts..... (LOL)

I think he did a good job on his tutorial.

But Bimmer...you must do something about all that rust. I almost puked looking at it.

 

Had to order one, including some other specialty tools I didn't own.

Also bought my own set of large channellocks.
Not sure if I'll ever need them again.

 

You'll use em again, they are a great versatile tool.

 

Bout time you got this done. Only been like a month.

 

So you're saying that a month long battle over a shock, you never thought to try the other side and see how it was???............. Lol congrats on busting a nut finally lol

 

I found no point in changing just one shock.
Your mileage may vary.

 

Hey my first jeep is sitting in my driveway on jackstands on the frame before the rear leafs and its so rusted the entire rear end folder down on the ground the frame was paper thin in allot of place, it had no floorboards just a piece of plywood on the drivers side and i drove it around like that for like 500miles. Scary huh:P

 

Holy crap, it looks like those old shocks came off a spanish shipwreck.

 

Yea, it's crazy. The rear shocks look like they have barnacles growing on them. These cars are not for the faint of heart! The good thing is that ANY car I buy after the Jeep will feel so easy to work on!!