No way I can use a breaker bar and hold the plumber's channel locks at the same time. Funny, that's what started this thread title!
I am just going to let the dealer take care of doing the 4 shocks. Installing shocks are beyond my experience and tool set.
And I've pissed way too much time on this one, at this point.

Why do you need to hold to channel locks too? If the rust is as bad as it seems, i figured it would just take one good yank to snap them.

Ask a friend for help.

Uhh no. Air filter to replacing your entire cooling system or doing your own brake lines is a HUGE leap.

3.5 ton jack & stands, $100



A torch is essential when working on a vehicle with rust. I picked up a propane torch with cylinder for $20. MAPP cylinder costs about $10 here.


Not sure why you'd need these unless you're running air tools or break a bunch of metal somehow.

Again, very important when working on a vehicle with rust. Those tools cost me $15, $19, and $21, respectively. I've had a Dremel for years working on computers as a hobby.

Picked up a set of screw extractors after finding one had snapped off in my brake caliper. Bought a tap & die set on sale after reading horror stories about other broken bolts. Such is life with a 15-year-old rust bucket: bolts and screws WILL break.

This is absolutely essential for any vehicle made after 1970 - I cannot fathom why anyone would not consider this basic. $15.


The job itself is quite simple, the problem is fabbing the tools. But that does require fab skills as a prerequisite (or a borrowed tool)



Only issues if your vehicle is rusty and you are not prepared to deal with this reality.



D30 front hubs require a 13mm 12-point socket, breaker bar, ratchet, torch if you've got the rust, penetrating oil, and a 36mm axle nut socket. I did mine in my driveway with the above in an afternoon. I don't know what kind of vehicle requires pressed bearings for the wheels.

Why not keep trying? Your dealership is backed up for weeks. Make your appointment and go mess with it when you're done filing lawsuits each day until the nut gets tired of you ****ing with it and it just falls off.

In the weeks you have before your appointment you could file the nut into dust with a chainsaw file.

Lies and deceit. My impact took at least 15 seconds to snap the forward bolt.

The nut, and the stud, and the upper shock sleeve will all rotate freely.
You must immobilize the shock and turn the bolt at the same time.

Have you got the nut off yet?

Split the nut and be done with it.

He can't get is dremel tool in there.

I'm pretty sure I could remove the nut with a wet noodle at this point.

What do you do for a living? Why do you reference doctor or politician tools?

According to this image rust should be a non-issue. At worst, once the nut is spinning there's only maybe one thread to fight to get it off. I'm not really sure why I'm still wasting my time.

248 posts over this. I don't think that's gonna go over so easily lol

Idk... It looks pretty clean compared to the nuts I break loose everyday.

Oh yeah. He should try to break one of those nuts loose that's so rusted the threads are gone.

I'm pretty sure he is NOT a mechanic.

I feel so for his XJ.