Junior Member
What does the nut do if you try to tighten it back down? Does it tighten easily or does it have a lot of resistance?
If it has some resistance, tighten it back up about a 1/2 turn or so, then try to loosen it again as much as you can. When you can't loosen anymore, tighten a 1/2 turn again, then loosen as much as you can.
1 of 2 things are going to happen, its either going to keep cleaning the threads and the nut will come off (doubt it..)
OR
IMO, if its rusted like you say it is, you may feel like your turning the nut, but its actually twisting and putting torque on the stud causing friction. Friction = Heat, Heat equals a stud and nut that's going to snap off probably after doing that just a few times.
Just keep rocking the nut back and forth with a wrench. It will break very quickly.
If it has some resistance, tighten it back up about a 1/2 turn or so, then try to loosen it again as much as you can. When you can't loosen anymore, tighten a 1/2 turn again, then loosen as much as you can.
1 of 2 things are going to happen, its either going to keep cleaning the threads and the nut will come off (doubt it..)
OR
IMO, if its rusted like you say it is, you may feel like your turning the nut, but its actually twisting and putting torque on the stud causing friction. Friction = Heat, Heat equals a stud and nut that's going to snap off probably after doing that just a few times.
Just keep rocking the nut back and forth with a wrench. It will break very quickly.
Senior Member
mechanic or not throw a wrench on the b**** and turn it, just wait till he gets to the bottom that'll be another 17 pages
Quote:
Oh yeah. He should try to break one of those nuts loose that's so rusted the threads are gone.
Like an exhaust manifold stud.. Originally Posted by Lowrange2
Oh yeah. He should try to break one of those nuts loose that's so rusted the threads are gone.

Junior Member
Quote:
If it has some resistance, tighten it back up about a 1/2 turn or so, then try to loosen it again as much as you can. When you can't loosen anymore, tighten a 1/2 turn again, then loosen as much as you can.
1 of 2 things are going to happen, its either going to keep cleaning the threads and the nut will come off (doubt it..)
OR
IMO, if its rusted like you say it is, you may feel like your turning the nut, but its actually twisting and putting torque on the stud causing friction. Friction = Heat, Heat equals a stud and nut that's going to snap off probably after doing that just a few times.
Just keep rocking the nut back and forth with a wrench. It will break very quickly.
He's going to tell you that this is spectacular advice (Which it is) and thank you for taking the time to offer actual advice in the middle of all the TROLLS in this thread. Even though this was suggested near the beginning.Originally Posted by XJ Sam
What does the nut do if you try to tighten it back down? Does it tighten easily or does it have a lot of resistance?If it has some resistance, tighten it back up about a 1/2 turn or so, then try to loosen it again as much as you can. When you can't loosen anymore, tighten a 1/2 turn again, then loosen as much as you can.
1 of 2 things are going to happen, its either going to keep cleaning the threads and the nut will come off (doubt it..)
OR
IMO, if its rusted like you say it is, you may feel like your turning the nut, but its actually twisting and putting torque on the stud causing friction. Friction = Heat, Heat equals a stud and nut that's going to snap off probably after doing that just a few times.
Just keep rocking the nut back and forth with a wrench. It will break very quickly.
Quote:
If it has some resistance, tighten it back up about a 1/2 turn or so, then try to loosen it again as much as you can. When you can't loosen anymore, tighten a 1/2 turn again, then loosen as much as you can.
1 of 2 things are going to happen, its either going to keep cleaning the threads and the nut will come off (doubt it..)
OR
IMO, if its rusted like you say it is, you may feel like your turning the nut, but its actually twisting and putting torque on the stud causing friction. Friction = Heat, Heat equals a stud and nut that's going to snap off probably after doing that just a few times.
Just keep rocking the nut back and forth with a wrench. It will break very quickly.
Originally Posted by XJ Sam
What does the nut do if you try to tighten it back down? Does it tighten easily or does it have a lot of resistance?If it has some resistance, tighten it back up about a 1/2 turn or so, then try to loosen it again as much as you can. When you can't loosen anymore, tighten a 1/2 turn again, then loosen as much as you can.
1 of 2 things are going to happen, its either going to keep cleaning the threads and the nut will come off (doubt it..)
OR
IMO, if its rusted like you say it is, you may feel like your turning the nut, but its actually twisting and putting torque on the stud causing friction. Friction = Heat, Heat equals a stud and nut that's going to snap off probably after doing that just a few times.
Just keep rocking the nut back and forth with a wrench. It will break very quickly.
Thanks, but no.
I was not "twisting" the stud. As you can see, the bolt did almost come off.
I spent almost 2 hours to get it that far off, one agonizing 1/8 of a turn at a time.
This was the hardest bolt I have ever wrestled with. Even burst some blood vessels in my eye, as well.
The threads don't look bad b/c the nut is almost off. This thing is nowhere even close to simply shearing off.
The rusty threads are now under the nut. Once the nut was covering all the rusted threads, it froze. The bolt can no longer turn in any direction.
I think the rusty threads shavings got caught in the threads, and just ground the bolt to a halt.
It is so frozen now, that the shock just slips in the huge channel locks, which can no longer keep it still.
So that's when I decided to try a dremel, which also failed.
The bolt can not be moved in either direction now. It's frozen.
If I actually had a huge jackhammer, I could lay the long blade against the nut and smash it off. It will be very interesting to see how a professional actually solves this riddle.
Junior Member
You are officially retarded.
Quote:
LOL, you don't read so well, do ya?Originally Posted by bruni86xj
mechanic or not throw a wrench on the b**** and turn it, just wait till he gets to the bottom that'll be another 17 pages
Try actually reading this thread.
I did put a wrench on it.
For several hours, in fact.
Then it froze.
Quote:
Yet another specialty tool I don't own. Originally Posted by cruiser54
Split the nut and be done with it.
I am going to have to spend another $1000 on tools before the next project.
There are like another dozen tools I didn't even know existed as a result of this thread.
Quote:
Yet another specialty tool I don't own.
I am going to have to spend another $1000 on tools before the next project.
There are like another dozen tools I didn't even know existed as a result of this thread.
Here's the picture again. You can get it at a parts store relatively cheap.Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
Yet another specialty tool I don't own.
I am going to have to spend another $1000 on tools before the next project.
There are like another dozen tools I didn't even know existed as a result of this thread.
Dan, nut splitter is already on my shopping list. I have about a dozen windows open with all the new tools I'll be needing to buy to do even the most basic jobs on this XJ. Tap&die, channel locks, dremel adapters, thread detective, angle grinder, sawzall, vice, MAPP torch, special cutting wheels, welder, etc. I just need to figure out where to store all this stuff. When I bought my XJ, I was stupid enough to believe the internet myth that you just need an entry level tool set from Sears to work on XJ's. LOL!
CF Veteran
Dan could be pretty close. You should toss him some money and a PM and see if he could help.
Here is a list of my specialty tools:
36mm axle nut socket
Lock ring pliers.
And I've done a lift, bumper, winch, fender trimming, whatever really...
Here is a list of my specialty tools:
36mm axle nut socket
Lock ring pliers.
And I've done a lift, bumper, winch, fender trimming, whatever really...
Seasoned Member
Buy yourself these: http://www.harborfreight.com/24tpi-b...-10-38759.html
Wrap the first 4-5" with...
duct tape
,
electrical tape
,
masking tape
,
painters tape
,
scotch tape
,
human hair
,
whatever. Now use said "custom specialty tool" to cut the top stud and the bottom bolts.
Wrap the first 4-5" with...
duct tape
, electrical tape
, masking tape
, painters tape
, scotch tape
, human hair
, whatever. Now use said "custom specialty tool" to cut the top stud and the bottom bolts.
Junior Member
Quote:
Sorry, must have missed that in the beginning. Was trying to catch up today on all the posts and was cracking up at work.Originally Posted by Lowrange2
He's going to tell you that this is spectacular advice (Which it is) and thank you for taking the time to offer actual advice in the middle of all the TROLLS in this thread. Even though this was suggested near the beginning.
At first thought everyone was just giving him a hard time, but even reading posts after mine certainly set the record straight on everyone's opinions
I mean....a jack hammer..... for real? I now understand.
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