Are the front shocks a 2 man job? Special tools needed?

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Jul 16, 2013 | 03:13 PM
  #256  
What does the nut do if you try to tighten it back down? Does it tighten easily or does it have a lot of resistance?

If it has some resistance, tighten it back up about a 1/2 turn or so, then try to loosen it again as much as you can. When you can't loosen anymore, tighten a 1/2 turn again, then loosen as much as you can.

1 of 2 things are going to happen, its either going to keep cleaning the threads and the nut will come off (doubt it..)

OR

IMO, if its rusted like you say it is, you may feel like your turning the nut, but its actually twisting and putting torque on the stud causing friction. Friction = Heat, Heat equals a stud and nut that's going to snap off probably after doing that just a few times.

Just keep rocking the nut back and forth with a wrench. It will break very quickly.
Jul 16, 2013 | 03:15 PM
  #257  
mechanic or not throw a wrench on the b**** and turn it, just wait till he gets to the bottom that'll be another 17 pages
Jul 16, 2013 | 03:27 PM
  #258  
Quote:
Oh yeah. He should try to break one of those nuts loose that's so rusted the threads are gone.
Like an exhaust manifold stud..
Jul 16, 2013 | 03:33 PM
  #259  
Quote: What does the nut do if you try to tighten it back down? Does it tighten easily or does it have a lot of resistance?

If it has some resistance, tighten it back up about a 1/2 turn or so, then try to loosen it again as much as you can. When you can't loosen anymore, tighten a 1/2 turn again, then loosen as much as you can.

1 of 2 things are going to happen, its either going to keep cleaning the threads and the nut will come off (doubt it..)

OR

IMO, if its rusted like you say it is, you may feel like your turning the nut, but its actually twisting and putting torque on the stud causing friction. Friction = Heat, Heat equals a stud and nut that's going to snap off probably after doing that just a few times.

Just keep rocking the nut back and forth with a wrench. It will break very quickly.
He's going to tell you that this is spectacular advice (Which it is) and thank you for taking the time to offer actual advice in the middle of all the TROLLS in this thread. Even though this was suggested near the beginning.
Jul 16, 2013 | 03:37 PM
  #260  
Bimmerjeep is a special kind of stupid isn't he?
Jul 16, 2013 | 03:56 PM
  #261  
Quote: What does the nut do if you try to tighten it back down? Does it tighten easily or does it have a lot of resistance?

If it has some resistance, tighten it back up about a 1/2 turn or so, then try to loosen it again as much as you can. When you can't loosen anymore, tighten a 1/2 turn again, then loosen as much as you can.

1 of 2 things are going to happen, its either going to keep cleaning the threads and the nut will come off (doubt it..)

OR

IMO, if its rusted like you say it is, you may feel like your turning the nut, but its actually twisting and putting torque on the stud causing friction. Friction = Heat, Heat equals a stud and nut that's going to snap off probably after doing that just a few times.

Just keep rocking the nut back and forth with a wrench. It will break very quickly.

Thanks, but no.

I was not "twisting" the stud. As you can see, the bolt did almost come off.
I spent almost 2 hours to get it that far off, one agonizing 1/8 of a turn at a time.
This was the hardest bolt I have ever wrestled with. Even burst some blood vessels in my eye, as well.
The threads don't look bad b/c the nut is almost off. This thing is nowhere even close to simply shearing off.

The rusty threads are now under the nut. Once the nut was covering all the rusted threads, it froze. The bolt can no longer turn in any direction.
I think the rusty threads shavings got caught in the threads, and just ground the bolt to a halt.
It is so frozen now, that the shock just slips in the huge channel locks, which can no longer keep it still.
So that's when I decided to try a dremel, which also failed.
The bolt can not be moved in either direction now. It's frozen.

If I actually had a huge jackhammer, I could lay the long blade against the nut and smash it off. It will be very interesting to see how a professional actually solves this riddle.
Jul 16, 2013 | 03:57 PM
  #262  
You are officially retarded.
Jul 16, 2013 | 04:03 PM
  #263  
Quote: mechanic or not throw a wrench on the b**** and turn it, just wait till he gets to the bottom that'll be another 17 pages
LOL, you don't read so well, do ya?
Try actually reading this thread.
I did put a wrench on it.
For several hours, in fact.
Then it froze.
Jul 16, 2013 | 04:09 PM
  #264  
Quote: Split the nut and be done with it.
Yet another specialty tool I don't own.
I am going to have to spend another $1000 on tools before the next project.
There are like another dozen tools I didn't even know existed as a result of this thread.
Jul 16, 2013 | 04:11 PM
  #265  
Quote:
Yet another specialty tool I don't own.
I am going to have to spend another $1000 on tools before the next project.
There are like another dozen tools I didn't even know existed as a result of this thread.
Here's the picture again. You can get it at a parts store relatively cheap.

Are the front shocks a 2 man job?  Special tools needed?-image-1321999184.jpg  

Jul 16, 2013 | 04:13 PM
  #266  
This thread..

 

Jul 16, 2013 | 04:17 PM
  #267  
Dan, nut splitter is already on my shopping list. I have about a dozen windows open with all the new tools I'll be needing to buy to do even the most basic jobs on this XJ. Tap&die, channel locks, dremel adapters, thread detective, angle grinder, sawzall, vice, MAPP torch, special cutting wheels, welder, etc. I just need to figure out where to store all this stuff. When I bought my XJ, I was stupid enough to believe the internet myth that you just need an entry level tool set from Sears to work on XJ's. LOL!
Jul 16, 2013 | 04:48 PM
  #268  
Dan could be pretty close. You should toss him some money and a PM and see if he could help.

Here is a list of my specialty tools:
36mm axle nut socket
Lock ring pliers.

And I've done a lift, bumper, winch, fender trimming, whatever really...
Jul 16, 2013 | 05:01 PM
  #269  
Buy yourself these: http://www.harborfreight.com/24tpi-b...-10-38759.html

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Wrap the first 4-5" with...

duct tape
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electrical tape
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masking tape
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painters tape
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scotch tape
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human hair
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whatever. Now use said "custom specialty tool" to cut the top stud and the bottom bolts.


Jul 16, 2013 | 05:10 PM
  #270  
Quote: He's going to tell you that this is spectacular advice (Which it is) and thank you for taking the time to offer actual advice in the middle of all the TROLLS in this thread. Even though this was suggested near the beginning.
Sorry, must have missed that in the beginning. Was trying to catch up today on all the posts and was cracking up at work.

At first thought everyone was just giving him a hard time, but even reading posts after mine certainly set the record straight on everyone's opinions

I mean....a jack hammer..... for real? I now understand.

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