I bought 3 new bolts, one nut from the dealer. Secondly these are not stock leafs, they are re1463 from my lift which im replacing with new.1463. less than 10 yr old not that it matters.
stock leafs did not fight like this. This NEEDS a very well welded nut onto the bolt that won't break in order to back out the bolt.

cutting the side of the mount to cut the welded nut is only to get a spring on, and the jeep to a trailer until I which i then would take to a shop to weld the flap/cut shut. This should be safe enough right?

 

File two good flat spots onto the bolt and and get some big vice grips on there as tight as you can. Propane/Mapp gas torch to release the thread sealant. Oxy-acetylene would do it even better. Throw a jack handle on the end of the vice grips and give 'er hell.

Worst case you snap the head of the bolt off flush because you're grabbing less material on the bolt. In that case you could weld a nut on there nice and hot and it will come out.

I'd leave cutting holes and messing with the captive nut as a last ditch effort.

Kinda related; I just googled the temperature differences between propane and MAPP to compare to the red Loctite release temperature. Propane burns at 3,600F and puts out 255(BTU/Cu/Ft.) . MAPP is only slightly higher temperature at 3,730F but is rated at 433(BTU/Cu/Ft.) Red Loctite's release temperature is 482F so both will do the job.

 

lol this red loctite keeps coming up!

. its an aftermarket spring which i installed
. No loctite was used, None
Ill add a pic of the cut bolt to the sleeve so you see what im dealing with

my brother tried welding a washer+ nut to the bolt stud today, with a lincoln 125. The welds were crap and we arent well versed in welding. It cracked off leaving the same exposed bolt.
THIS BASTARD NEEDS AN EXTREMELY PERMANENT WELDED ON NUT.

 

There just might be a reason for that.


If you bought the bolts from the dealer, they came with Loctite on them, already in place in the threads, cured, ready to lock that bolt up tight into the nut.


Have you tried heating the thing? Or are you just assuming we don't know what we're talking about?



Then do that. Rent a flatbed trailer (probably less than $75) and get it to a welding shop.


While you have it there, have them cut the flap at the bottom and heat that sucker with a proper torch, and back that bolt out, then weld up the flap.



Or keep ignoring us and butcher it the way you want to.

 

No offense ment. Im just trying to get this vehicle out of the garage the only way i can think of. I am certainly not beyond the wisdom of the helpful folk here blue ridge, but my capabilities are for certain shy of what can and needs to be done.

new bolts have never been installed. The bolt was turning before it broke. And yes we've tried heating( not a good torch), and tried welding a nut on with a rented lincoln 125. It broke the nut because welds were horrible haha. I need a pro to burn a nut on.
I know you hate the idea of cutting a flap on the side, but what else can I do to free the inner welded nut? I can grind a hole on the bottom but the sawz all has no room that way for the blade. Maybe I can buy an air chisel?? Idk

Would the jeep make it onto a trailer if I bolt the leaf back onto to the axle and shackle?

 

I try to read all the details before responding to posts. I missed the detail about the spring being aftermarket with no loc-tite. Sorry. disregard. (but I still would have tried a bolt extractor socket, like I suggested).

 

The socket would typically be used on a bolt that would move, but hasn't a head though right?
vice grips just peeled thread sway. I'm not sure it would work with how much force I've exerted into trying to get this out. Will one start to strip material?

 

They are typically used on fully rounded off bolt heads. They have a tapered funnel shaped fluting internally, and a type of sharp "rifling" with hardened metal. So they bight down on the round object and the more you turn it counter-clockwise the more it wants to bite down into the rounded object. They have the hex shaped end so that after you have it on it can be reached with a heavy duty box wrench (you won't have much space in there for a socket and driver head/breaker bar). I have used them several times on some really narly rounded off bolts, and they have worked every time. I don't believe they will spin like you have seen your vice grips doing (typical).

If the welded-nut that is holding the bolt in the pocket is spinning now (because the weld has broken), the extractor will not help. It will just spin the broken bolt and the nut. But if the welded nut is still in place, it can probably get the bolt out. I re-read a few posts above, and it seems you might have mentioned that the welded nut is already broken free and spinning. If this is true, then you will need to open the bottom of the pocket that the nut sits in as advised by others in the post. Once you get that opened and have a box wrench on the welded nut, the extractor will still help you get the bite on the broken bolt that you need.

They are great to have in your toolkit no matter what, even if it doesn't end up getting it out.

 

The frame welded nut is intact an not broken free.


later today roadside service was able to come by and tig weld on a nut to the bolt it came right out.

You can bet everything else going back in is going to get slathered with anti seize. Does silver work fine?

 

Silver works fine. Permatex anti-seize. Good stuff, where it's appropriate.

But... there's probably a reason that the factory bolts have Loctite on them.

 

What if I use blue this time

So I did, anti where it's not threaded, blue where it was threaded. GLORY

 

Not a bad idea.

 

Thats a clean looking Jeep. Nice.

Id go with blue loctite too. IMO, red was overkill.