Not sure what threads best for this. Currently trying to replace my leaf springs. The front bolt is coming out but it's seized to the sleeve and pushing the bracket open. Got a friend running over a propane torch soon, what else can I do?

 

i had a similar issue, bolt was broken inside the sleeve so it wouldn't get out (spinned the sleeve with it because it was frozen)

with a grinder there was enough space to fit the cut off wheel and i grinded about 3/4 of the bolt. then by hammering the leaf spring back the rest just broke free. you need to have new bolts on hand before doing this though, because they're not "normal" bolts. the bolts are M14x2.0x120, grade 10.9, you can find them online

 

Cut the leaf spring, like this.



Then cut whats left the same way and pry it off the bushing. Then cut the bushing shell the same way and remove that from the rubber. Then cut the rubber (a box cutter will do) and remove that from the sleeve. Find the groove in the sleeve and chisel it open enough to free the bolt.

 

Yup. What he said. Cut the spring, etc.



A propane torch is probably not hot enough to do much good.


And PLEASE do not think you can save a buck on the bolt. It's got to be the right one. Look up the strength on a 10.9 bolt vs. a regular bolt some time and you'll see what I mean.

 

I bought bolts from the dealership.
New problem I got the bolt cut but now the threaded end isn't coming out. I tried like he'll with vice grips

 

You need heat. Serious heat. As in, "a propane torch is probably not enough" kind of heat. There is thread locker on those threads, from the factory, and it's not going to let you remove that bolt unless you say, "Pretty please" with some serious flame.

Check out MAPP gas torches.

 

So how far did you get before cutting the bolt?

 

Well once it broke cutting It was my only option. I was undoing it with a breaker bar, little by little it did come freer, but the sleeve was rusted/ fused to the bolt. Now I'm stuck with a hunk of thread that looks like it should come out but it's not moving.

this is where I stand now

one thought was to grind an opening on the rear vertical bend to get a sawzall Behind the nut and and saw downward through the nut/bolt. It's the only way a saw will fit.
option 2, figure a way to get it to a shop that can weld a nut to the bolt. Or find someone that can make it to my apartment garage with a welder

 

Cut that bit as flush as possible. Then cut an access hole in the pocket that sits off the uniframe. Use an air chisel to break the weld nut free from the pocket. Replace with appropriate hardware, and either replace the cut portion of the pocket, or just coat with primer and coating of your choice and leave it open. I left it open for future work if needed, just primered it then coated with undercoating.

 

Can also "hot wrench" it. Weld a nut to the exposed bolt and wrench it off . In the instances where a broken manifold bolt is getting the best of me typically if I can get a decent weld it will come out with ease . Just another option !

 

is the welded nut tacked on? I thought about grinding an access hole on the rear vertical portion and sawzalling off the nut/bolt.

does the frame have any threads or just the nut?

welding would be awesome if i had the ability. How could i limp the jeep to a shop to weld a nut on?

 

A small extractor socket would probably get it off. They can be found at most auto parts places. Make sure to get the kind with the hex shaped backing (as shown) so that once the extractor socket is on, you can use a socket driver -or- a large box wrench to work on it.

BlueRidgeMark mentioned this a few posts up. He was accurate.

Also forget about penetrating oil for now, its just making that stud slippery and hard to get a grip on. I would recommend using some brake cleaner to get the oil off the remaining stud. What is holding that bolt in is red loctite. You need to apply enough heat to that bolt to liquify the loctite. You may need to apply heat a few times while slowly working it out. You'll be able to feel it tighten back up as the heat cools down.

Irwin Industrial Tools Professional's Industrial Extractor Set
by Irwin Tools
Link: http://a.co/831hR4e

 

I strongly recommend you NOT do that. The vertical walls are where the load is supported. Cutting out underneath is doing far less weakening.

 

The jeep is stuck in an apartment garage and cutting a flap on the side is the only way it looks like the sawz all would fit. I just need to get the jeep mobile so I could have the shop weld the flap shut.

how else do i fix this I've tried everything else I can think of, even a very ****ty welded nut came off with a cheater bar

 

Limping it to a shop should no longer be an option. It is no longer safe to drive.

Like said, dont cut the vertical sides of the mount. Cut the bottom as pictured by roninofako and i (the pic i posted btw was originally posted by ehall). Then use the sawzall. However, you may not even need to if you can use a torch to weaken the loctite, and then use a stud extractor of some sort on whats left of the bolt. But, if you dont have access to a torch (or air tools to break that nut loose) and since welding is out, then cutting is your only option. You will just need new nuts. If you have not started the other mounts yet, be prepared for more of the same.