Front hub/bearing assembly removal problems
10-04-2010, 07:31 PM
#1
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Model: Cherokee
Front hub/bearing assembly removal problems
So I have to replace my UBJ and part of the process is removing the hub/unit bearing and removing the axle.
Front drive side went without a hitch and I started working on the passenger side when I hit a snag. I cant get a single bolt/nut loose.
Broke two 13 mil wrenches on the hub bolts and broke a ratchet on the bearing nut. A friend warned me about applying heat to the bolts because of potential warpage and possible weakening on the knuckle itself.
Has anyone else had this problem or have a sugestion to make things easier.
For some other information I did soak everything in wd-40 2 hours prior and reapplied every 30 mins. The wrenches I broke were craftsmen and sheared at the wrench eye. Supposidly the front axle is from a grand cherokee according to a local shop who replaced some studs.
Front drive side went without a hitch and I started working on the passenger side when I hit a snag. I cant get a single bolt/nut loose.
Broke two 13 mil wrenches on the hub bolts and broke a ratchet on the bearing nut. A friend warned me about applying heat to the bolts because of potential warpage and possible weakening on the knuckle itself.
Has anyone else had this problem or have a sugestion to make things easier.
For some other information I did soak everything in wd-40 2 hours prior and reapplied every 30 mins. The wrenches I broke were craftsmen and sheared at the wrench eye. Supposidly the front axle is from a grand cherokee according to a local shop who replaced some studs.
10-04-2010, 07:51 PM
#2
Caracticus Potts The Mod
a little heat at where the bolt goes through the bearing will not hurt anything. also try using 13mm socket instead of a wrench.
10-04-2010, 08:34 PM
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Caracticus Potts The Mod
10-04-2010, 09:13 PM
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 v8
1/2 in breaker bar with a quality 13mm or 1/2 in (fit tighter on mine for some reason) 12point socket and a can of pb blast should work on the hub bolts, axle nut remedy is to spray pb, soak, remove center cap on rim, reinstall rim, put in 4x4, put 1/2in breaker bar on your nut socket, get a large cheater bar, and give it all you've got....or have a large friend give it all he's got lol
10-05-2010, 10:13 PM
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so front axle is out now bigger problems. I removed both of the ball joint nuts and removed the steering arm. Smacked the **** out of the knuckle and it is still on. Got a torch heated up the knuckle, beat the **** out of it, still attached.
What do?
Oh the UBJ spins free while the lower one seems to be the one still attached
What do?
Oh the UBJ spins free while the lower one seems to be the one still attached
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10-06-2010, 11:34 AM
#10
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0 HO I6
You should replace both ball joints while you got it apart anyways, so it sounds like your rig was just helping you in the right direction by being a PITA =P
10-06-2010, 02:10 PM
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Year: 1994
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Next time you can try a breaker bar and cheater pipe.. =) Always gets bolts off for me.... either by breaking them or loosening them.
10-06-2010, 02:32 PM
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The first two wrenches we used were new craftsmen and a bit of flag pole we found.
The lower ball joint was not in properly. It was cocked sideways and I ended up having to cut it out.
When I originally checked the joints the lower one had no play. Being broke I decided that the lowers were for later. I was wrong ...
The lower ball joint was not in properly. It was cocked sideways and I ended up having to cut it out.
When I originally checked the joints the lower one had no play. Being broke I decided that the lowers were for later. I was wrong ...
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