IDK for sure, but I was told lower control arms for a WJ fit the XJ. I know they are a box channel and stronger then the pressed u-channel ones on the XJ. They should fit as long as they are the same length. I don't remember about the uppers when I did my WJ. I seem to remember seeing a list of lower control arm lengths on the forum somewhere. I think it was in "Modified ZJ Tech". That list even included lengths for Wrangler arms.

 

Just for a point of reference on the amount of time the job takes. I did the passenger side last weekend and it was 4-5 hours on saturday and then 2-3 hours on sunday getting it back together. Today, I started tackling the drivers side. Took 4-5 hours to get it all apart, get the control arm bushings out and replaced back in (not tightened down yet, have to do that with the weight on the tires) and ujoint out and mostly replaced. I broke an endcap on the ujoint so have to get a replacement tomorrow to finish everything. Getting the axle bushings out is a PITA. I use the same technique of drilling out as much of the rubber as possible, use an air chisle to crush the metal casing and then push it out with the air chisel. Getting that one back in is tricky too but possible with the ball joint press. The old bushings had a lot of cracks in the rubber and probably weren't doing much anymore. So it's either a really long single day project or a 2 day weekend project per side.
I had trouble with the rear upper control arm bolts. They are 15mm and really need a 6 point socket. I had a deep 12 point and it just didn't work and kept spinning off. I ended up cutting the bolt off a little bit so I could get my shorter 6 point 15mm socket. I cut off the passenger side one too. Both went back in very easy. Gotta watch the inner bolt thing to make sure it does not fall into the frame. I use long nose vice grips to get a hold on the bolt head and very carefully pull it through the frame opening.
If you want to save time, you can get the replacement control arms that already have the bushings in them. You'll still need to replace the axle end on the upper control arms. You could get away with not replacing them and still get a huge improvement in the suspension.

 

There is a ton of good info on this thread! Thank you all for that.

I'd like to ask a bit of honest advice...….On my '01 XJ, I need to replace the axle joints on both sides, and would be replacing the hubs as well. I have access to a nice garage, air impact, and any hand tools that I may need. Of course, this is going to be a rusty, froze up SOB. I do all of my basic R&R projects myself, but have never tackled anything like this. Is a project like this in over a novice's head, or something that the average guy can handle? I also have access to a friendly service garage, but would like to avoid the big dollars, and do it myself if possible.

Thank you for any, and all advice!

 

It's not too bad of a job. The hardest part is getting the hubs off. They are held on by 12 point bolts (1/2" IIRC, but maybe 13mm) which can be a PITA to deal with. I used a hammer to get the socket firmly seated, got the bolt out and then used an air chisel to get the socket off. Once you get the three bolts out, the next trick is getting the hub off. The easiest way I found found is to use a piece of wood on the back side of the hub and use a hammer on the wood to knock out the hub. There are a lot of threads about putting a socket between the hub bolt (with the bolt loosened of course).and the knuckle and use the power steering to push the hub loose. I have also has some success with a hitting a drywall mud knife between the hub and knuckle to get it moving. Once it pops a little bit, it comes out easily.
Once you get the hub out, the axle shaft comes out and then you can replace the axle ujoint. I use a rented ball joint press to push the ujoints out and put the new ones in. Here is a good video on the youtubes that shows the removal: . I have never had a hub come out as easily as in that video.

 

Pull the brake rotors and soak the threads in PB Blaster maybe hit them with some heat. I use two wrenches doubled up for extra torque to break them loose if I'm replacing the hubs anyway i just go to town with a mini sledge since I don't care I'd they get damaged if I need to keep them i use a large rubber mallet

when I reassemble I use antiseize and torque to spec minus a little since they're lubed with antiseize.

 

The big thing is be sure you torque the axle nut properly. You're going to need a torque wrench that goes over 100 ft/lbs. Use a large screwdriver or similar tool to lock the rotor against the caliper bracket, using the cooling slots. The nut gets torqued to 175 ft/lbs.

 

Not in over your head at all.

Give yourself a good day of time (2 if you can).

Hub bolts are 13mm 12 point. I've never had an issue with getting them off - a breaker bar has always been enough.
Use heat on the axle nut if you're replacing the hubs - it'll come off with a breaker bar and 36mm socket (you can get these as a loaner, but as a Jeep owner, you should own one.)

Use the socket or bolt trick to pop the hubs off - it will save you hours of frustration and you won't need to pry or hammer. Use antiseize on the knuckle to hub surface when re-assembling.

For the u-joints, I found that getting a ball joint press (loaner tool from your local parts store) and putting the press in a bench vise worked great. I spent hours fighting the original u-joints on my front driveshaft then got the press and they came right out. It made putting the new u-joints in a breeze as well (a 7/8ths deep socket, breaker and ratchet and had no trouble with the double cardan (which is much trickier than axle u-joints).

Put the new u-joints in the freezer up until install time to make it easier to install.

I live in MA and we have tons of salt and moisture and I don't have a garage, so I'm no stranger to rust.

Good luck - you can do it, take your time and let us know how it goes.

 

Wow, amazing advice....thank you ALL!
I'm a bit intimidated, but going to give it a go. I had one the hub and one axle joint done on my '00, and it was around $400 at the shop. Budget's tight these days, so I'm much more enthusiastic about doing it myself. Plus, I have 3 sick days left that need to be used up!

Thanks again, and I'll definitely update!

 

If you put anti-seize on the knuckle where the hub sits and then take the hub out a short time later it comes out just as easily as that video shows.

I also anti-seize the hub to rotor mating surface so I don't have to deal with nasty stuck on rotors.

O.P. -- If you use anti-seize, you can put some on the 3 hub bolts (the ones through the back), but absolutely do NOT put it on the axle nut (the one that has to be torqued to 175 ft/lbs). Anti-seize throws off the torque values.

 

Once I have that nut torqued down, that area gets a heavy dose of fluid film to prevent issues later.

 

Hi all, thanks again for all the help. The front end of my 98 XJ is done (for the most part).

I have some follow up questions, but first, Dennis G, sounds like you are doing the same work too.

As others have said, it is not hard, but takes a long time. As a reference, it took me about 3 days. I had a friend helping me 1.5 days. I had an air compressor and an air impact gun that was super helpful.
It was really hard to get the hub off. I was hitting it as hard as I could with a sledge hammer (i was replacing the hubs so I was not worried about damaging it) and it was not budging. I used 2 different size flat head screw drivers and hammered them it + a hub puller with jaws. On one side that was enough, but the other side was not going anywhere. Eventually I screwed in the hub bolts part way in, and hammered on those from the back. That did it for the hub, but in the process I damaged the hub bolts. Leave a socket on them and hammer on the socket or use some wood. New bots are $20 / box of 3, from Napa or O'reilly, Autozone doesn't carry them.

Control arms were also difficult to remove and install. I had to cut 1 bolt off the upper control arm, passenger side. It has a hex nut on one side, and just a metal flap on the other. The metal flap is supposed to catch the control arm, but mine was just spinning in place. Finding a replacement bolt was also challenging. I ended up finding a standard bolt, so I had to drill out the holes in the control arm and the bushing just a bit to make the new bolt fit.

Installing the new u joints in the axles was really difficult. I broke about 3-4 cups. I didn't do anything special the times that I was successful. I think it was just luck? Everything was straight and flush, but for some reason the end cap was going in crooked. IDK... but be ready for that. have extra u-joints handy, and just return what you don't use. You might be able to return the broken ones too, if they come with lifetime warranty?

Now for my follow up questions:
1. I forgot to install the brake shields. Oopsie! Do you all thing they are necessary? I am dreading dealing with the axle nut, so one option I was thinking of is cutting them a bit. If I do that. i can just remove the hub bolts, and slide out the hub+axle just enough to wedge the shield back it. Hopefully the end of the axle will stay in the diff, and I don't have to worry about damaging any seals?.

2. While working on replacing the shocks in the back I broke off the lower bolt (holding the rear driver side shock to the axle). As you all know, it's not a regular bolt. It is welded onto a bracket, and the bracket is welded onto the axle. Grrr!! As far as I can think of, my only options are to take the car to a welding shop, and have them weld threads back on -- OR -- cut the stud completely off, and drill a hole in the bracket for a normal bolt.
Are there any easier options for this?
How likely is it that the shock will pop off while driving? I won't have time to fix this for about 2 weeks, and the car needs to be driven for a bit.

Thanks!
Vlad

 

1 - Brake shields are NOT necessary. I like to have them, but they're definitely optional. You do NOT have to remove the axle nut to get them on however - you can remove the hub bolts and pull the hub and axle out as a single assembly.

2 - This happened to me and what I did was -very carefully- drilled a smaller hole in the center of the original stud and then tapped it to (IIRC) 1/4" -- basically as big as I felt I could get away with with enough metal to support the shock and also hold the threads. I used a Grade 8 bolt and washers (maybe a little blue loctite) and haven't had a problem with it. I'd read another post where someone did the same and had no trouble even with some wheeling (which I don't do). You can always do the "right" fix and weld a new stud or bracket on there or spend a lot of time drilling all the way through... I've read that folks have been successful with just a bolt through as well. I have no personal experience with this approach, so I can only speculate.

Just as an aside - why did you spend a ton of time hammering the hubs out - the bolt/socket trick with the power steering works beautifully?

 

Thanks for the encouragement Vlad! I'm glad your project is moving along!

Thank you too, PatHenry. I haven't gone to work yet, but your advice is very encouraging! I have to ask though......the bolt/socket trick sounds right up my alley. What is it??

Also, I'm hearing noise in the left front while making right hand turns.....Is that an indication of driver side axle joints or hub gone bad??

 

The bolt socket trick is described in detail (with photo) in this thread: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/you...el-hub-148737/

The gist of it is that you use the power steering to press the hub out of the knuckle by sticking a solid item (like a socket, heavy duty bolt, etc) between the axle shaft ear and the axle housing.

Seriously, it works so quick and easy you'll be amazed. I like to keep one of the 13mm 12pt hub bolts slightly threaded in so the hub doesn't drop out. There's no loud sound or obvious thing when it pops out, just one second you've got a stubborn hub and the next minute it's loose in the knuckle.

Yes noise in the left front could be a bad wheel hub bearing or axle u-joint. You can try to wiggle the tire from 12 and 6 o'clock and see if there's any play (if so, the hub is bad), spin the tire by hand (see if it's rough or noisy) and with the tires off, you can try to twist the axle shafts to check for play

 

Best source of information ever! Thank you!!