Hey everyone

I swapped my front DS from my 2000 xj and installed it on my 97 xj, because the original one on the 97 had this crappy metallic rubbing sound. When I removed it the sound went away so I know it was the Front DS. After putting the one from my 2000 into the 97, the sound is still gone, but now I have a bit of vibration. Maybe the orientation is different or something, idk.

You guys got any advice and a possible fix for this? Thanks for the help in advance!

 

Did you put new u-joints? You could of also got a bent drive shaft.

 

I did not put new ujoints in. They seemed fine. Is it possible for ujoints to be bad if they don't have any play in them?

 

the vibe is from the old U-joints. Yeah I know they are testing a good. BUT they are worn in based on the geametry of the DONOR rig. You rig has a difrerent geometry, and the wear patterns required for the Ujoint is different. Spend the 50 on a a new set of joints now.. They may be tight today but they will get torn apart trying to REwear into your rig.

 

That's a good point. Didn't really think of it like that. Cause there weren't any vibes on the donor xj, at least not that I noticed. It was beat up, but still drove nicely.

Thing I'm curious about is why the original DS from my 97 had the metallic rubbing noise. I'd like to keep original parts on it, but if it's an internal probablem in the shaft id rather not worry about it.

 

sometimes when the ujoint is dry or bad it will produce a metallic rubbing sound, replace the ones in your original DS and put it back in, then you can put the other back in your 2000. Did you mark the orientation of the shaft when you pulled it out? somtimes if you put it in 180 out you'll get some vibration.

 

Unfortunately I didn't mark it. I was kind of doing it in a rush because we were taking off up north, and I didn't want to listen to it the whole way up. Is this a problem? As soon as I took it off I realized I didn't mark it.

I'll switch out the ujoints on the original and see if it fixes my metallic rubbing sound. I'll just drop the shaft I just put in and drive without it for another couple days till I replace the ujoints in the original.

Is there any advantage to buying more expensive ujoints that are supposedly "beefier" and "stronger"? I would assume so, but how different can they really be?

 

it doesn't always make a difference but I was always taught to put it back in the same way it came out. Look at rockauto, they take a little bit to get but you get name brand ujoints for a fraction of the cost of stores.

 

Another thing, and excuse my ignorance, but there are 3 ujoints on the front shaft right? One at the axle yoke, and two in the cv by the transfer case yoke, right? It clearly looks like there are, should I just swap all of them?

 

In regards to switching out the Ujoints, does anyone have a good write-up on changing the Ujoints in the double cardan? The reference would be nice! I'd rather not just start tackling it and run into problems.

 

The "off-road, rock crawler" heavy duty U-joints are a worthy investment, for just a few dollars more. Replace all 3. Since you're in there anyway.

I bought my U-joints and took them and the front shaft to a drive line shop. It wasn't much for them to put them in. They have the knowledge and tools to do it right. You tweak your drive shaft, even just a little, and there will be end to vibrations.

 

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,2392

This is a wide price range

*Note this is for my year, assuming they are the same joints for you too*

 

Yeah, maybe that's a safer route. How much did you spend to have them switched out?

 

It was on my '97 Grand Cherokee. I don't have the invoice handy, but I seem to recall around $90. I could be wrong/high about that.

I had a lot going on with the drive line on that Jeep. Front shaft was in and out, and went to 3 different shops, all in a week's time. Kinda blurs together as far as the exact cost of everything.

 

Yeah, I called 3 different shops two of which won't use parts the customer (myself) purchased before hand. And the last shop said $275 to replace all the joints (using their own) and have it balanced. That's IF the inner flange that connects to the transfer case yoke doesn't need replacing. Ridiculous!