PatDig

A few months ago I was coming down a pretty step mountain road here in NC, I kept it in 2nd gear, 10 miles of single lane gravel road, and when I got to the bottom my brakes were smokin hot (smoke from both sides). I let them cool off and drove to a auto parts store. Pulled my wheel off and had my wife push the brakes. There is no "visible" movement of the caliper or pads. Same with the passenger side, and both very tight on the rotor. (this has now happened 2 more times on regular mountain roads)

The question is should there be any visible movement? They do not seem to release all the way, i.e. when i jack up a front wheel i can still feel the resistance of the brakes and feel the friction between the pads and rotor. As a result of the extreme heat the driver side rotor was warped, and I just replaced it. Now after test driving when i jack up the driver side and turn the wheel it is VERY stiff to turn. Is it possible to have two bad calipers on the front at the same time or could there be another component that has gone bad? I replaced the rotors and pads around a year ago and the pads/rotors do not show much wear....

Any ideas?

I'd like to get this sorted out as I just got a fresh new set of leaf springs to put on this weekend, thanks for taking the time to read this post

tiwvr1

jack it up and if it is stiff to turn, crack a bleeder loose, then seeif it spins free. Most of the time it is a bad rubber hose, and not a caliper. also if the drums on the rear are out of of adj. it will cause overheating int he front. get new rotors for both fronts, Adaptive one pads, from nappa, and fix the sticking problem, will feel like a new jeep.

Xjay98

X2 on the bleeder. Did you bleed the system at all? My experience has nothing to do with Jeeps BUT when I used to road race motorcycles I lost my front brakes on the front straight at Road America. After 6 laps on that high speed course I cooked my brake fluid. I flushed out the old fluid at the pits and all was good. Most likely your Dot 3 reached its boiling point. Theres vapors mixed in with the fluid in your calipers. Bleed all 4 and see what happens. I think Dot 3 boiling point is 250*....

PatDig

So bleed the system, check the rears, and see how it performs, if it still sticks then pull the hoses and inspect to see if the insides have collapsed? Would this effect both sides?

I'm also putting on a 2" lift along with the new rear springs, should I shoot for longer rubber lines while I'm at it?

Xjay98

yup bleed all 4 and take it for a spin. keep us posted

tiwvr1

the only way a collapesd line would effect both sides is if it was both lines lol. BUT if the rears are out of adj it would cause overheating on both fronts.

91 limited owner

As the piston is pushed out, (as the pads wear out) the farther the piston is pushed out. They get full of rust & crap, (while extended) and stick. With the bleeder open a crack, the pistons should be able to be pushed back in with a C-clamp. Fairly easy. If not replace the piston, or remove them and clean them up. Shouldn't be any rust rings or pits in them.

PatDig

Thanks guys, I'm on it tomorrow after work. Let ya know how it goes!

XJ4life92

if your putting on a 2 inch lift, go with some steel braided lines if possible. rubber lines expand alittle bit more then steel braided lines.

caged

don't ride the brakes all the way down the hill. that will only heat up the brake fluid and cause your brakes to fail. with heat, there's expansion. so maybe your caliper piston expanded and stuck on dragging your brakes and warping your rotor. that heat could of also collapsed a flex line.

PatDig

Alright seems to be fixed. Replaced the other rotor and all new pads. Bleed the system and adjusted the rears. Then installed new rear leafs, waiting till next weekend for the rest of the lift kit. Feelin pretty good just like a new Jeep!

Thanks for the help