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front axle assembly woes--HELP!

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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 02:55 AM
  #16  
fantic238's Avatar
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Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
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Originally Posted by Tim C
We do have a pull-your-own close by. I'll have to try to get over there early next week. My only concern is pulling one off a vehicle that has crazy high miles and putting into my relatively low miles vehicle. I'm not for sure, but I doubt the pull-your-own will be able to give me the mileage for the ones they have...unless its a pre-97 without the digital odometer. I know it probably won't make a huge difference, but like I said, I'd hate to put 150,000-175,000 mile front end in my 70,000 mile Cherokee. Oh well.

Here's a question for those who have actually torn one of these apart. Assuming my problem is something in the carrier assembly/gear set, can't that whole unit just be removed? Again, assuming my axle shafts are still good, I still don't understand why the carrier assembly with gears can't just be removed and replaced? I could easily be misunderstanding, but if anyone has a chance, enlighten me. Thanks!
That's not a problem, if an axle is good it's GOOD, no matter how many miles it has on.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 06:11 AM
  #17  
funkle95xj's Avatar
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Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0L High Output
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That neutral safety switch writeup is great. I had a no start condition with my XJ. It wouldn't even try to crank. I actually went out and bought a new starter assuming that was the culprit. And still, no start. I accidently bumped my shifter while trying to start it and it fired right up! It was the neutral safety switch all along! With the new starter it fires up in like 2 cranks now though, lol. Just gotta jiggle the shifter a bit sometimes. That writeup will cure my shifter jiggling habit, haha!
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 09:23 AM
  #18  
Tim C's Avatar
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Just wanted to give an update on the Jeep since you all were a big help. I guess I compromised. I ended up getting another front axle assembly from a junkyard. It came out of a 99, same as mine, and had 100,000 miles on it. Close enough. Paid way more than I should have for it, but it was still almost $1500 cheaper than the new Jasper one the dealer wanted to sell me. Since it was already at the dealership I didn't want to spend another $100 to have it towed home. They installed it and its finally back! It hasn't even been a full week yet, but so far it runs great.

The no start issue turned out to be a bad wire that runs to the neutral safety switch. The switch itself was good, but apparently one of the wires to it was loose/bad/had a short. The dealership called it "very minor." He also wanted to sell me a new steering stabilizer for almost $200! I almost laughed out loud on the phone and told him I'd take care of it myself. For crying out loud, I can get an Old Man Emu one for under $100...and that's still steep. I cant believe they wanted that much....wait, yes I can. I kept the broken front end and upon inspection after I got it home, sure enough, a whole bunch of teeth are broken/sheared off the ring gear. Still would like to know what actually caused this.

Anyway, its back on the road and Im loving it...even if it is stock. Going from my 96 beater with RE 3.5" super ride and 260,000 miles to this almost mint, stock 99 is like night and day. I almost forgot that a Jeep could even ride/handle that well.

Only issue I have now is that when I got it back from being fixed the gas gauge now just sits on Empty, no matter how much gas is in it. I tried the gauge re-set trick (hold odometer button while turning key to on) and its still not working. Talked to previous owner's daughter and apparently they had same issue which he didn't tell me at the time...but it worked when I bought it. Anyway, not the end of the world, but I do need a functioning gas gauge. Im hoping its something other than the sensor in the tank because I'm sure thats a pain in the ***** to get to. Either way, I'm glad its running now, but that will be my first and last trip to a dealership for anything.

Thanks again for all the help. I have plans for the 99 of course. I'll try to keep everyone here updated but it'll be a little at a time.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 11:01 AM
  #19  
fantic238's Avatar
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Year: 1988 limited
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Great news.
You can buy a good reinforced steering stabilizer from pro-comp on e-bay for $40, shipping included.
The causes for ring and pinion failure are many. The most common ones are: off road severe torque abuse and on road bad carrier bearings, bad teeth toe/heel touch pattern due to wrong spacing specs, in this case fracture is usually preceded by a grinding noise. Very rare is bad material from the factory.
The sending unit removal isn't that difficult you have it on the front side of the tank hold in place by a circular clip.
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