rawk krawler

Hey guys I just rebuilt my 95' engine.

It has a 94 head, 89 block and inners, everything else is 95.

Went to crank it over for the first time and had no luck getting it started, did notice a VERY significant fuel leak coming from the fuel pressure regulator.

I can't imagine why it wouldn't want to start, I checked the spark and its nice and blue, checked the pressure release valve and it spit fuel all over. Injectors where swapped for 703's and a 00' intake manifold was swapped in months prior to the previous engine dying.

Could this be an issue with injectors not opening? Ground connections? Any help greatly appreciated guys!!

thakmfb

Make sure the distributor is timed correctly.
Engine has to be on top dead center ob #1 cylinder. Crank mark lined up on timing cover. Oil pump will be at about the 11 o'clock position. The distributor should be a tooth past # 1 post on distributor when fully seated an block.

cruiser54

Make sure the engine dipstick tube grounds are attached.

99% of the time the dizzy is not in correctly.

Setting Your 4.0 at #1 TDC
　

With #1 spark plug removed, turn the engine over clockwise using the 3/4" front crankshaft bolt. You will see the degree marks on your front cover. Mark the 0 with chalk or white-out.You will see the timing mark on the balancer. Mark it with chalk or white-out. While turning the engine over, put your finger/thumb over #1 spark plug hole. As the mark on the balancer approaches the marks on the front cover, if you are coming up on #1 TDC, pressure in the cylinder will push on your finger. If there's no pressure, you're at #6 TDC and need to crank the engine over until you see the marks coming together and you get pressure. Set the mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the front cover.




Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.

Install a ¾" wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.

Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.

Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.

Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.

If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block.

Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.

Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position.
Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position.

Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .

Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.

Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.

Revised 07/03/2012

DFlintstone

#1 is at 5:00 viewed from the side. The diagrams are wrong. 153624 clockwise. No "pop" sputter?

With compression, fuel and spark, she won't fire if its flooded. See: (if your MAP is still up on the firewall)(96-97 on, maybe not....

There is a brittle little tube. It comes out of a rubber plug, low on the engine side of the throttle body. It runs back to the firewall, then up to your MAP sensor sort of high up there near center on the firewall. CRUCIAL!! The MAP will tell the ECU to dump fuel with less/no vacuum. Any crack or blockage and it will be pig-rich. (black smoke, fouled black plugs). You can pull the line off the MAP and feel for vacuum with your finger. If it runs!

karl4x4

Ok, its electrically working. Good

Other things to check for.
is your rotor installed at the right location. (could be 180deg off) A spark at the wrong time is useless.
Just in case.
remove spark plug #1, rotate (clockwise) engine until air starts coming out of the hole. Keep going until the alignment mark on the flywheel (should be almost there already) is lined up with 0 (doesn't have to be super precise remember we are looking for 180deg out)
Now remove Distributor cap. Is the rotor near #1 spark plug connection?

NO? fix that and try again.
Yes? Check your compression. Sometimes the machining of the cylinder is a little to course and air slips by the ring. if compression is low, squirt a little bit of engine oil in each cylinder. Rotate engine a full 2 rotations without spark plugs in (to ensure there is not to much oil in there) than try starting it.

Remember break in period. First 10 minutes are crucial.
I like this method: http://www.aera.org/downloads/bip.pdf



Not sure if you put a new cam but this is crucial for the cam initial break in.
The break sealing of the ring is a highly debated discussion.
I vote warming up engine and do the "put it true its pace" theorie.

Also there is special oil for this. Im a big fan of Amsoil http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...-oil-(sae-30)/
Got some very high mileage engines after using it.
There is to much money spent on rebuilding an engine to skimp on things like oil.
I digress......

Good luck

rawk krawler

Timing is all set, I don't think fuel is hitting the cylinders

rawk krawler

I will check if its 180 off, had my assistant put it in so it'd be worth checking! Engine wasn't new, block, pistons, rings, rods all from an engine with <160,000 on it

karl4x4

If you had a fuel leak at the regulator, at least you know gas is getting there.

The fact that its firing, Im guessing the rest of the electrical should be fine.
Pretty rare for injectors to not fire.

rawk krawler

There is no firing at all, it turns but there is nothing happening

DFlintstone

Oh, hey, Aubrun. I had a remodel there. The Gal was cute, we skied Sugar Bowl more than anything else. See if your plugs are wet, or if it fires with a prime or starting fluid...carefully..Just a little.

rawk krawler

So I went through a sanded down the grounds ALOT better, and after that it started to mis and backfire, kicking vacuum lines off and such, so I spun the dizzy and it fired right up! Thank you guys.

Now that it is running for the first 30minutes it was blowing incredible amounts of smoke out the pipe ( I assume the computer was running it rich and slowly leaning it out ) but it's doing good now.

Only issue is the oil pressure is reading about 20 at idle and it will knock if revved up, this engine has 160k on it from a junkyard, probably siting about a year now? Could this be result of unprimed oil pump?

She's almost ready to get on the street again!

odgreen

... I thought it was a fresh rebuild.....

rawk krawler

94 head 89 block 00 intake 95 exhaust, gasket set, best I could do

odgreen

That's not a fresh rebuild then. That's a used engine not starting

odgreen

And if it has 20 psi oil pressure then its primed.

Here is my take on jy engine's..... they are in the jy for a reason. 20psi and knocking when reved up makes me think it was poorly maintained and is a junk bottom end.