Diagnosis- wire prob with power locks. They've been "phantom" locking, even when off and finally crapped out. Batt was half dead (episode of start but couldn't keep xj running). Test showed batt was pulling 2-3 amps @ total shut down. Removed fuse for pssgr lock/window and it took the battery draw down to <20 milliamps. Left fuse out, charged batt, ran well today.

Attempted surgery- Thus far, all pssgr door wiring unhooked (except mirror which is being a b*tch, but I'll get it)...presently just doing visual check for integrity of actual wires

Question- (likely so basic it hurts) I see where the "bundles" of wires come thru the door boot thing and are routed into the JB. Do I disconnect all their respective "plugs" at the JB and pull them thru the boot and door in order to check the whole length of the wires? Or am I to be doing something else?

DQ #2- considering HUGE learning curve...can I leave all the door shizz unplugged when I do necessary driving (knowing that I can't complete this in one sitting)?
I know I get to eventually figure out/ play with the multimeter again, but I figured a visual inspexn was in order first?
Wildcard- If it matters: I replaced the pssgr window motor/regulator weeks ago and it went up grudgingly but then failed to work. I tabled it b/c weather was nice and electric wigs me out Middle name: dummy

Thanks in advance for advice (even diatribes haha)

 

What kind of parasites. Tape worm or ring worm. Have you been out of the country lately, drinking any iffy water?
Good chance one of the door switches had failed constantly trying to move the window motor but failing. Sometimes when the switches get wet they get malaria. Another parasite.

 

Broken/shorted wires in the door jamb loom, happens all the time.

 

X2... I wonder if the "jiggle test" might help. If I held a button or something, then saw a change while moving the wires crossing from the body to the door, I migh "get surgical" with a utility knife. Get in there and look. Copper doesn't like bending back and forth. That said, I've seen the driver door master switch toast from the door being left open in the rain too often.

 

Yeah- it's these wires that I'm just trying to get to but was unsure as to best way without fubarring everything else

 

I like this solution, but the wires are taped pretty tightly together particularly in the jamb and behind the door panel (I've removed all the tape I could readily get to in order to check wires).
So I'm afraid that "Jiggle 1" = "Jiggle whole bundle" in the state it's in. That's why I wanted to disconnect the stuff at the JB and hopefully push that thru jamb in the event that the crimp is in there .

I'm happy to cut the boot if necessary, could prob get replacement at JY if that's not a bad idea. I just feel like I need more "play" in the wires to be able to check them, if that makes sense

 

You don't have to cut the boot there is a grommet at each end. Simply pinch it together at the chassis side and pull out. Then at the door side pinch it together and push it in the door. Continue to push the loom into the door until it is out of your way. The broken wires should be right there. Installation is simply the reverse.

 

Ah! Duh. Thanks! Everything was so tight that didnt even occur to me. Told ya it would be a DQ

 

Loom is taped for the apocalypse- no sliding it around is gonna happen. May I cut all this tape off and commit to replacing the loom? If so, is there an upgrade type insulated one I should loo for- I suspect this door takes on some moisture (noticed a little water in door when doing past window work and insulation barrier was missing if that matters). Thanks

 

Oof

 

"Continue to push the boot into the door until it is out of your way."

Should have stated boot to be clearer, sorry. Just carefully remove the tape from the ends of that fabric like stuff then unroll the fabric.

 

Yeah, boot is in door already in that pic. Looky what I found...TWO broken wires!

 

It looks like one of those wires has already been repaired once. It might be best to cut the middle section out of those two wires and slip a short length of replacement wire (maybe a gauge thicker) and use 2 butt connectors for each wire. That would let you move the connectors on either side of the flex point.
It may be overkill but I like to think of it as Chicken Soup for parasites.

 

Thanks, I'll try that
...learned that staring at it and wishing really hard didn't fix em haha

 

Remember to strip and twist the new wire to the old wire you're replacing and use the old wire to pull the new one through your Armageddon ready loom. Recut the ends and size the wire after it's in place. It's a lot easier that way.